Racking boiling wort

Ive been doing no chill lately(sorta)with no issues.I cant rack with my auto siphon due to warping and melting Ive been reading about.So Ive been using my IC to get temp around 95, then racking.Im trying to eliminate the IC all together.I figure if Im not pitching till the next day whether I rack at boiling or 95 makes no difference. If anything it would be better,the boiling wort would sanitize the bucket.

Any ideas what to use to rack?? Cant seem to find any info

No chill/slow chill wort overnight in your brew pot, then transfer to sanitized bucket.

I was thinking something similar. Maybe a SS racking cane and some silicon tubing? A silicon turkey baster and a one way valve could make a cool priming mechanism.

CUrchin said:

No chill/slow chill wort overnight in your brew pot, then transfer to sanitized bucket.

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That wouldn't go over well.I brew in my kitchen with a 20 gallon pot on an octagon fish tank stand.I see trouble "brewin" with the other half if I did that

Three solutions come to mind

• You could transfer the boiling wort to the FV with a pitcher/saucepan. One pitcherfull at a time and pour out the last bit into the FV when its safe and easy to lift/carry the pot. Assumes a plastic FV
  
• Let cool in pot before transfer via racking cane of your choosing
  
• Attach a spigot and valve to the pot and transfer immediately via gravity and silicon tubing. Assuming you have a plastic FV

Edit: Scratch option 2

Wait a sec...I just bought a p38i pump and silicon tubing for mash recirculation.Its rated for 105c or 220F pushing the upper limits.It makes me a little nervous using the pump post boil because I cant see if there is any crud collecting bacteria inside the pump. Think this would work with no chance of an infection or damage to pump?

I've done this a few times using a SS dip tube and Silicone hose (ok, I used PVC hose before I knew better!) and a "T" on the end.

The operation involves putting a pinch clamp or valve on one side of the T and sucking wort up with your mouth. If you block the other side of the T with your sanitized finger, it will get the wort flowing. Then you quickly pinch off the side you are sucking on, and let your finger off the other end. If you time it just right you get a nice, sanitary flow of wort without a burnt mouth or finger.

Sorry if it seems rude, but why are you not just waiting the extra 30 minutes for your wort to chill, then rack and pitch immediately?

Seems like you're kind of asking for an infection and issues with hot-side aeration (whether that's a real thing or not is a different question)

TheMadKing said:

Sorry if it seems rude, but why are you not just waiting the extra 30 minutes for your wort to chill, then rack and pitch immediately?

Seems like you're kind of asking for an infection and issues with hot-side aeration (whether that's a real thing or not is a different question)

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I never waited but I would think 12 gallons of boiling wort would take a lot longer than 30 minutes,like hours and hours

JONNYROTTEN said:

I never waited but I would think 12 gallons of boiling wort would take a lot longer than 30 minutes,like hours and hours

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Ohhh, I didn't realize you were doing 12 gal batches, that would make a difference .. Given a robust 50+ foot IC though, it shouldn't take much more than an hour though if you whirlpool. I've never attempted to cool that much wort though, so that's really just a guess.

This sounds like more work, and potentially dangerous work, than traditional chilling and transferring.

Maybe I am missing something?

bucfan1234 said:

This sounds like more work, and potentially dangerous work, than traditional chilling and transferring.

Maybe I am missing something?

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Im going to say your missing something.
Breakin out the chiller,cleaning the chiller,setting up pond pump hoses,running water for 20 min in a bucket,Ice if I really want to get to pitching temps. Way easier to just transfer and wait a day.

ive done 10 gallon no chill batches, and what works great for me is a ball valve on the pot and then put the burner on a cinder block pad to lift it up high enough. when Im done with the boil, just open the valve and dump into my hdpe fv.

Side question...how the hell are you boiling 15 gallon batches in your kitchen?

normonster said:

Side question...how the hell are you boiling 15 gallon batches in your kitchen?

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Like this and this.
I keep the stand and hoist in the basement and drag it up on brew day.Takes all of 5 minutes to bring it up and makes for nice winter indoor brewing. I always brew on the stand,the floor pic was just getting it going for the first time.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=507794


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=508766

Nice setup. Now I understand what you are up against (my wife would NEVER let me set that thing up in my kitchen). Anyway's, what about a SS racking cane and silicone tubing? Or, but a ball valve on that pot (you've already drilled it for the element and probe, correct?)

Still curios if the p38i pump would work,infection would be my main concern.
If not Ill look into the ss racking cane and drilling another hole in the pot as a last resort.

JONNYROTTEN said:

Still curios if the p38i pump would work,infection would be my main concern.
If not Ill look into the ss racking cane and drilling another hole in the pot as a last resort.

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The pump seems like it should work. I would let your kettle stand for 15 mins or so to give yourself some temperature buffer on the pumps rating, and as long as it's over 140F infections won't be an issue.

You'll still need silicone or high temp tubing to use with your pump though.

JONNYROTTEN said:

Still curios if the p38i pump would work,infection would be my main concern.
If not Ill look into the ss racking cane and drilling another hole in the pot as a last resort.

Click to expand...

That pump will work just fine. Sanitise it by pumping a couple gallons back into the top of the kettle before you move the hose to the ferment vessel, the heat will take care of any bugs.