BrunDog 50A eRig - no HLT for me!

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Hi HBT Brothers and Sisters,

I have learned so much incredible information via this forum, I thought it a good time to post up my rig and learnings as it may possibly help others. This is a 2 Vessel 50A electric rig that is mostly built, though upgrades will always be ongoing. It is similar to most other rigs, but here are some of the highlights:

  1. - 2 vessel, 50A, 2x5500W elements
  2. - BCS 462 powered
  3. - Direct sparge and strike water heating via RIMS tube
  4. - Dual voltage RIMS power
  5. - Dual flowmeters for autosparge and safety, powered via Arduino
  6. - Dual control box (main and console)
  7. - Inline O2 and poor man's sight glass
  8. - Cart design with onboard RO water storage

I will break these down into more detail in threads below. Please feel free to reply with any questions or comments. This is, like anything else, a work in progress. My next steps will be to possibly add electric ball valves, sight glass sensors, and anything else that gives me the tickles.

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-BD
 
1. I determined early on that I wanted to minimize hardware and leverage some control from automation. This certainly isn't at the level of full automation of many high-end builds on this forum, but I wanted something at reasonable cost/size. I realized I could eliminate the HLT and just use the RIMS tube for heating strike and sparge water. This allowed for a smaller footprint and an off-the-shelf stand. I live in FL, where a basement brewery is not possible, so this was built to reside in my garage. I wanted this to be portable, so a cart design was selected. Luckily my electric panel is in my garage, so I installed a 50A outlet to power this (justified by potential for electric car charging in the future). The kettles are cheap Bayou’s. The MLT has a Norcal false bottom and a Loc Line sparge ring. The BK has a ripple element, a BrewPi element enclosure, and whirlpool arm, a DIY trub dam, and a borosilicate sight glass.

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2. As mentioned, I wanted to have a good controller. I researched many different homegrown options, initially planning on using a USB data acquisition board and writing my own interface, but ultimately decided I couldn't pump the time into it, and an off the shelf option would fit the bill. The BCS is a solid device at low cost, and the support is reasonable. The biggest problem is the NTC thermistors it uses (not RTD's which are more accurate and more common of most PIDs). I did not like the hardware probes that BCS offered, so I ordered Auber's probes for the RIMS TC end cap, the BK, and the MLT and chiller ports, and I replaced the RTD's inside with high quality thermistors.
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3. As I mentioned, I decided to use the RIMS tube to heat the strike water, directly heat the sparge water on the fly, and perform mash temperature steps & maintenance. This concept did not seem all that common, but some initial work that I found online was conducted by Sizz and Bobby. My initial testing proved that this could easily be done. A 5500W element, heating water from ~80 degrees could easily be heated to 170 at a flow rate well over 1 qt./min. The tricky part that I learned the hard way is that the RIMS tube must be mounted vertically. I initially mounted it horizontally, but would get local boiling in the tube despite a non-boiling water temperature at the outlet. I tried mounting diagonally, which resolved the local boiling problem, but then the temp reading in the RIMS tube did not match the output. These issues require a whole separate discussion, but for now remember that hot water rises above cold water. (Sorry this pic is a little old)
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4. The RIMS element runs at 240V (5500W) for heating strike water (via recirculation) and sparge water (via one pass). However, I did not want to have the element run that power for mash recirculation. I felt this was too much heat and could cause scorching even if correctly pulsed to a very low duty cycle. So I implemented a relay to switch the element’s voltage between 240 and 120VAC. At 120V, the element only generates about 1400W. Therefore the relay provides 240V at first for strike water heating, then is switched to 120V for mashing, then is switched to 240V again for sparge water heating. BTW, since the BCS uses different PID parameters for each output, I am using two outputs, which then power the same SSR. Finding a DIN rail mounted relay to handle 30A was a little tricky, and I am still not thrilled with the one I have (relay is circled in wiring construction shot here).
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5. One of the most difficult aspects of direct sparge water heating is that the PID tuning is a PITA. Especially since the BCS does not have an auto-tuning algorithm (yet, supposedly). In truth, I have had to play with this a lot, as the RIMS tube heating is very fast, there is a lag between the temp rise and its measurement (there are a few inches between the tip of the element and the temp probe), so it hasn’t been easy to tune. Fortunately, sparge water temp is not super critical, and the BCS allows for min and max pulse durations, so it’s currently set up like a hybrid PID/duty cycle controller. Of course, one of the problems is properly setting the flow rate. Setting the flow rate too high or low will have the tuning completely off. In addition, matching input and output valves to match flow rates for fly sparging is practically impossible. I decided I could implement some flow rate meters to: a. measure/display the sparge water rate and volume into the MT; b. measure the drain rate out of the MT and link the two to create an autosparge system; c. inhibit RIMS element power if flow rate into it was below a limit. So to do this, I did some testing with some cheap flowmeters and an Arduino. I used online resources to write the code to measure two flowmeters, generate two outputs, and broadcast the information via a served webpage. The Arduino reads the two flow meters and calculates the flowrates, volumes, and differences between the two. It generates two outputs to the BCS (flow into RIMs is adequate and when flowmeter A has >1qt more than flowmeter B through it. The first output feeds the inhibit signal (safety) to the BCS to prevent powering the RIMS element if there is insufficient flow. The second is used for auto sparging. During auto sparging the BCS runs the sparge water pump constantly, and then cycles the second pump which drains the MT into the BK. Since the BCS cannot handle external data, I mounted an Ethernet shield on the Arduino, and through this, it serves a single webpage to display the information. I keep two tabs open on my iPad browser: one for the BCS and one for the flowmeters. Both of these Ethernet connections are made wireless via a Netgear bridge.
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6. I wanted to use the largest control box possible so I would have room for expansion in the future. However, I did not want this control box all up in my face. I wanted to rely on the software to create the interface, so only minimal hardware would be required. Also, since my garage build was going to be a portable “cart” design, I determined that I could mount the control box separate from the interface. I landed a very inexpensive consolet from Amazon, so I built that in. The main control box houses all the power, I/O, SSRs, BCS/Arduino, etc. As you can see there is quite a bit of available temp inputs and general I/O connectors available (only using 2 of 16 XLR's so far). The consolet houses the power switch, the E-stop, LED’s for power, elements ON, alarm, and a USB power port to power my iPad, which rests on top. The main and consolet boxes are connected via a multi-conductor cable with a disconnect on it. The consolet is mounted on stainless ball bearing slides, so I can push it in for storage and pull it out during use.
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7. I am super anal about sanitation/sterilization and wanted to have a closed-ish transfer from kettle to fermenter. Nearing the end of the boil, I circulate hot wort through my pump, chillers, and inline probe/O2 stone/sight glass assembly. I then move the hose connected to the the assembly from the whirlpool arm to the fermenter. The probe measures the temperature through the assembly, which is used to show the temperature of the wort coming out of the chillers. I use two DIY chillers inline: the primary is fed by ground water, the secondary is by ice water in a bucket. The write-up on these is here. The O2 stone is fed by a cheapo welding O2 bottle and is measured by an inline flowmeter. During transfer I set it to 1 lpm and let it flow for 60-90 seconds, depending on the OG. I used a 5/8” borosilicate tube and compression fittings to create a poor-man’s sight glass. This helps me see the clarity of the wort and that the O2 is actually flowing. I find it helpful to see when I am pulling down hops/trub from the BK as time to stop the transfer.
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8. As I mentioned, I wanted a portable, “all in one” design so I could move it in my garage as needed. I had originally designed a stand on casters out of 80/20 T-slotted aluminum, but the cost was upwards of $1k, so I decided to go with a wire shelf/cart with wheels from Lowes for $90. This was meant to be temporary but will likely be permanent. The bottom shelf has the pumps and the main control box, the middle has the kettles, and the top has storage, water tanks, and twin fans for “exhaust”. I have an RO water faucet in my house, but as expected it only produces two slow gallons at a time. I have two 5 gallon plastic tanks that I fill over the days leading up to a brew day with that RO water. This water is then used to feed my MLT and pump for direct sparging. When I brew, I wheel the cart up to the entrance of my garage door. When boiling, the two fans on the top shelf turn on, and the blow the steam from the BK outward. This has proven effective enough with a garage door open in front. I also have a quick disconnect mounted for connection to my hose. This feeds my primary chiller and an on-board hose/hand sprayer for cleaning.
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Thanks jcav. Here is a pic of my last brew's whirlpool result. This and my attempted turn dam helped reduce, but not eliminate hop debris. The dam is U-shaped and supposed to point open toward the whirlpool arm but somehow it got turned.

This was a 5 gallon lager, so not the kind of hope you would get from an IPA!

-BDView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1441833762.567882.jpg
 
Thanks. I actually got the flowmeter idea from you augiedoggy! In doing direct sparge heating I needed to get flow rate set properly. I saw ur build and thought the flowmeter was a brilliant idea. Somewhere along the line I decided to change it to electronic version to do the auto sparge and volume measurement. But the original concept was to mirror yours. That's why this forum rocks!

-BD
 
Thanks fine sir! The light was a huge help cleaning after hours.

And since cleaning is such a big fat PITA, I am going to ditch the side pickups, fill the holes with thermometers (don't need them but not sure what would be better), and solder on bottom drains. Thinking a TC flange to keep the bottom super flat, but open to suggestions.

Then, maybe update the system with motorized ball valves and add an automatic clean cycle!

-BD
 
A couple of comments based on your pictures:

This large grey box with all the cable inputs/outputs is directly below your kettles, including the boil kettle. Eventually you'll have a boil over or some other 'spill' and all I can see here is a sticky mess finding its way into all of the connectors and wires. I would put a little diverter lipguard at the top of the back of the unit where everything connects to the box, or box the box elsewhere. The pumps are also completely open and unprotected. Some sort of diverter would be good.
Is the screen waterproof? (Looks like an iPad?). I'd be concerned for the same reasons - this thing directly in front of the kettles right in the work area.

Good luck!

Kal
 
A couple of comments based on your pictures:


This large grey box with all the cable inputs/outputs is directly below your kettles, including the boil kettle. Eventually you'll have a boil over or some other 'spill' and all I can see here is a sticky mess finding its way into all of the connectors and wires. I would put a little diverter lipguard at the top of the back of the unit where everything connects to the box, or box the box elsewhere. The pumps are also completely open and unprotected. Some sort of diverter would be good.

Is the screen waterproof? (Looks like an iPad?). I'd be concerned for the same reasons - this thing directly in front of the kettles right in the work area.

Good luck!

Kal

Kal,

Thanks for the observations, which are very valid. The BK is directly over the side of the control box where the heat sink is. The connector side is under the MLT. BUT, anything can and will happen. The kettles are sitting on a melamine board (not what I wanted as a base but gets the job done for now. I will replace with a plastic panel that would be thick enough, waterproof, and handle the high temps.) I have thought about putting a lip and around the board and a hole in the corner, or maybe put a shield around the connectors. Right now, the control box and pumps are well underneath that shelf, so if there were a minor boil-over or over flow, the liquid would likely just drip off the edges and miss both. But, as you noticed... murphy's law is just waiting.

The screen is an iPad, which is in a otter box type case. I could dump my whole kettle of liquid on that and it would stay dry. The consolet that is sits on also slides out away from the kettles, and it canted away, so any drips there are really no issue.

Again, thanks for the feedback! And let me take this moment to thank you for all your contributions to the community - many of which I have taken queues from! Your site was the first to convince me electric is the way to go... and I have natural gas in my garage (hot water heater), which would have been an easy connection! THANK YOU!

-BD
 
But, as you noticed... murphy's law is just waiting.
Yup! :) You have to sometimes plan for the inevitable... you just never know...

The screen is an iPad, which is in a otter box type case. I could dump my whole kettle of liquid on that and it would stay dry.
Cool - good thinking - That should be fine.

And let me take this moment to thank you for all your contributions to the community - many of which I have taken queues from! Your site was the first to convince me electric is the way to go...
You're welcome! Glad you found the site useful. Nice setup you have there - happy brewing!

Kal
 
Now that I have a few beers on tap to keep me set for a while (Yuengling Clone, DuPont Saison Clone-ish, Punkin Ale), the next set of upgrades is in the works

1. Bottom drains for both the MLT and the BK. This will eliminate occasional potential cavitation when switching hoses but more importantly will facilitate easier cleaning!! Which I hate!

2. Updated auto-sparge system. This will eliminate the second flowmeter for the output and will use a capacitive sensor on the MLT sight tube to handle draining. This is because synchronizing the two flowmeters is tricky as their accuracy is poor. It will also use a proportional electric ball valve for the incoming direct-sparge water. The arduino will read the flowmeter and adjust the valve on the fly to automatically maintain a set flow rate (~1 qt/min). The info will continue to be presented via a web page served by the arduino.

3. All electric (motorized) ball valves. These will handle water input, MLT draining, BK filling, whirlpool, chilling, etc.

These updates will create more automation, but not full automation as that's not my goal. I am more interested in creating a simpler system to use and eliminate the hose switching (spilled hot wort, etc.) and other somewhat mundane tasks to focus on the brew science more (pH measurements, water profiles, etc.)

I did the first bottom drain tonight. Rather than dimpling/pulling a coupling through, I used this 1/2" NPT coupling from McMaster. It has a thicker wall than normal couplings. I sanded the face flat, punched a hole in the bottom of my MLT, and soldered the coupling on:

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-BD
 
Thanks for sharing your build ! I'm still in the process of putting my 3 kettle system together. Your posts and information has given me some ideas to follow.
 
Thanks. Truth be told, I did a test run on a scrap piece to learn how to do it (other than watching Bobby's videos). I overcooked that one. Keys as already told: take your time, keep the heat moving, leave it alone for a long time to cool down.

-BD
 
Nothing wrong with that, if I was going to try and tackle soldering myself I would have practiced on a scrap piece too. Just like mom used to say "Practice makes perfect"!!

John
 
Well, two steps forward and one step back.

First, as I didn't think forward far enough and leave enough room for a relay board, I didn't have much room to squeeze one in. I got crafty and stacked two four channel boards. These are 24V relay boards off Amazon (Chinese made), and the specs did not state trigger threshold. So I bought one and tested it, and my initial test showed it would trigger (high trigger) off the BCS's 5V output. Well, I only tested one port, which worked well. Then I wired it all up only to learn that each channel had different thresholds and some didn't work while others did. Now I have to source 5V boards and replace/rewire these! Damnit!!

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**EDIT** Nevermind below... I used too high of a resistor value in the R-C filter. So the voltage to the valve was actually being limited, and like a moron, I was not reading it on the input to the valve. All is fixed and I apologize for any apparant knock on the manufacturer!

Next problem, the proportional valve I sourced from China (KLD) was supposed to be 0-5V control. I created a R-C low pass filter off the Arduino PWM output to control it, and my first test shows that at 0V, the valve closes (success). But at 5V (actually 4.75 max), the valve only opens 25 degrees! Daggummit, it's supposed to be 90 ish. So this valve's control board must be a standard 4-20mA, not 0-5V. Gotta wait 24 hours for email response!

I hate when these things happen. Goes to show that the stuff from China, while low cost, has poor adherence to solid specifications.


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-BD
 
Brun,
I think I recall in one of your threads/replies, that you run some omron liquid level sensors? Got any pics of them? Are they wired into your BCS as a Din? Do they need a relay/SSR or have an internal mechanism like a float switch?
 
Hi BJ,

Take a look at post 17 in this thread - it details what I will be doing. The subsequent picture shown in the MT shows the sight glass but no pic of the capacitive sensor yet. I will post up a pic tomorrow as I am out of town right now.

The sensor is an Omron E2K-L26. It senses the "mass" of fluid through sight glass. The website is: https://www.ia.omron.com/products/family/475/specification.html. These run over about $140 new but can be found used on eBay for much less.

Because it is 24VDC NPN and the BCS is 5V sourcing (PNP), I took the easy route and installed a DIN rail mount 24V relay. The coil is energized by the output of the sensor. The NO contacts switch 5V to the BCS input. This is ok since the switching speed is slow and not frequent enough to affect a mechanical relay. Even if it bounces electrically, it doesn't matter. You can see just the relay in the pic above - it's between the power supply and the arduino (white/orange).

-BD
 
Well, my upgrades are complete! Bottom drains are in and working nicely. The new electronic auto-sparge system seems to function well on initial tests, and the electric valves are working as planned.

Here is the sight-level sensor for the MT:
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Here is the view of the valves. You can see the proportional valve on the pump on the left. It has an LCD on it which reports the commanded open angle:
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Here is the view of the BCS and AutoSparge web pages:
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As you can see, the "Valve P Recirc" output is on, which tells the Arduino to put the valve in 'Recirc' mode. This allows you to change the opening percentage of the proportional valve to a desired percentage. The default is 50% as shown, but you can change it via the AutoSparge web page as shown. Also, in 'Sparge' mode, the Arduino will automatically open or close the valve in incremental steps until the output through the RIMS tube is in a window around 1 qt/min. Kinda slick if I admit it myself!

I was hoping to do a brew tomorrow... but as murphy's law would have it... my fermenter's glycol pump started leaking. This is a DIY glycol bath cooled by a dehumidifier. Its time to get a legit fridge/freezer or upgrade it to direct cooling by moving the evaporator inside the chamber (requires brazing/recharging with refrigerant).

-BD
 
BrunDog where did you buy the proportional ball valve? I've found 2 & 3 wire on/off ball valves for reasonable price but no proportional ball valves.
 
I got it direct from KLD in China. It took a while to source given the time difference, language barriers, etc.

It was about $100 but was with other valves and the shipping and $ transfer fee were not cheap.

If you tell me what you want or are trying to do, I can direct you better as I did a bunch of research trying to source one.

-BD
 
You are amazing, and your system is absolutely top notch! Love seeing the progress and technology put to use!

John
 
Amazing setup! I'm super impressed, but now this makes the system I'm building look like something my 11 year old would throw together!:p Can't wait to hear how the first brew comes out.
 
Happy Thanksgiving!

Had some spare time today to start work on my next addition: automatic flush water for my primary chiller. Here is a manifold I soldered up which will take incoming water and provide it to my coiled spray hose, a fill valve (next project), and the chiller flush water. I am going to try the cheap route with a basic sprinkler valve, but if it doesn't cut the flow mustard, I will get someone with more oomph. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1448575907.743331.jpg

Brewing a Hoe clone tomorrow morning!
 
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