Keezer build!! (Collar style)

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wtaylor3

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Well I managed to purchase 3 ball lock corny kegs of the 5 gallon variety for $75. I couldn't pass up the notion of getting 3 kegs for the price of one. They're currently pressurized so I believe they should function flawlessly.

I then pulled the trigger and ordered a Kegco 2 tap kit w/tank and an Inkbird version of the stc1000 because it reads degrees both Fahrenheit and Celsius.

I plan to flush mount the temp controller and outlet into the collar or possibly build the assembly in a project box. Not sure which yet.

I also am going to build a paint can heater at some point because I live in Michigan and my keezer has to be out under a partially enclosed leanto. One side of the outlet will control the heater and the other side will control the compressor.

Lastly, I'm toying with the idea of building a cart with push mower tires on it to mount the keezer on as the leanto has a dirt floor and I may need mobility at some point.

This build may take awhile as I'm on a VERY limited budget right now but with some overtime and perhaps a little good luck I'll have it running in 2-3 weeks View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1440850581.903564.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1440850601.879066.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1440850634.383564.jpg
 
Life is good.
One piece of advice. If they haven't already cut the beer line, use the whole length to tap only 1 keg. When you've got cash for more beer line, then tap the other.
They never send enough beer line.
 
Thanks bellybuster I'll keep that in mind if it's not cut, if it is precut I'll measure it out and perhaps I'll just replace all of it. Clear vinyl line is cheap(ish)
 
Does anyone know if a CFL or LED light bulb will produce enough heat to work in a paint can heater? Utilities are included in my rent so this thing has to run as efficient as possible to avoid getting the landlord sore at me
 
I do not think an LED will work. CFL may, but it will be a low heat. Supposedly they're not supposed to give off as much heat as a regular bulb. With Michigan winters, it may not be enough, but you have little to lose in finding out, right?

Good luck with the build. Where did you get 3 ball locks for $75? I would open them up, clean them well and replace the o-rings unless the company that sold them said they put on all new o-rings. Most of my kegs were delivered with some sort of soda syrup inside of them. They had new o-rings, but that was all the company did.
 
A guy at work bought them in person from AIH for the same price said he had to search through a pile to find these 3 this nice but also they told him they replaced the poppets and o-rings that needed it, I'm sure they're full of syrup that's why I'm leaving them under pressure for now.

Thanks for information on the bulbs. I did a calculator and at .13/kWh it's less than $6 a month even if it runs 24/7
 
Well my dad has an old refrigerator he said I can have for my kegerator, so for now I may be holding off on the keezer. My question is until I need the heater option do I even need to use the temp control on the refrigerator? Seems to me it'll just run full bore all the time the way my fridge in the house for food does. If I end up using the fridge for now I can be drinking home brew on draft this weekend and will hopefully complete the keezer by the end of the year.

Will just need a hole saw & chalkboard paint. I have a batch of watermelon wheat ready to keg.
 
I've fallen way behind on this project, however I found a freezer for sale on CL for $50. There's just one problem the owner says that it gets cold but doesn't freeze.

I'm not sure if this is the one that I should purchase. Granted I don't need it to freeze but how long is it gonna be before it simply stops working all together.

That being said if it were a relatively repair the price point is very attractive. And I was raised in a family of mechanics and handymen so the work doesn't bother me just the diagnosis. I tore apart the washing machine to replace the motor coupler once and it works to this day so once I pin point the root cause I'm sure I can fix it.
 
A freezer that gets cold but doesn't freeze will soon become a freezer that doesn't get cold, but only takes up space. Even if you can fill it with gas you will be very hard put to find the leak. The $50.00 price plus repair costs will rapidly exceed the cost of a new freezer.
 
A freezer that gets cold but doesn't freeze will soon become a freezer that doesn't get cold, but only takes up space. Even if you can fill it with gas you will be very hard put to find the leak. The $50.00 price plus repair costs will rapidly exceed the cost of a new freezer.

+1 ^^^

Keezers look pretty simple and they are actually. But they take a considerable amount of work to build and assemble. Not to mention the money involved. Be careful buying a used freezer. After all, it's the heart of the system and many of the parts you build will be specific to the particular freezer you choose.

:mug:
 
Thanks for the quick responses, I suppose I'll have to wait it out for now. Menards had a brand new 7 cu ft for $168 this is the cheapest price I've found. I may have to pull the trigger his weekend
 
Just to update, I think I found a freezer from a coworker but he said he needs it until mid/late December so I'm back to building a kegerator

My dad and I plotted out the holes tonight, it seems I may need to build a base for the fridge as the faucets may have to be fairly low for the handles to clear the freezer door
 
Have the faucets mounted in the refrigerator for now until the freezer becomes available and then maybe the fridge can be a fermentation chamber.

Will post pics when I get the refrigerator painted with the chalkboard paint
 
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1443497667.343758.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1443497695.698178.jpg

Got the components installed in my temp controller box today. Have to wrap up the wiring, couldn't find my little tiny flathead to tighten the pot connects on the temp controller itself, still have to work out how I'm gonna pass the power supply wire and temp probe through the box.

I need a grommet of some kind or something. I thought about searching for some sort of a plug or connector however that obviously won't help me with the temp probe.
 
One trick is to mount the taps in the fridge door as high as possible, even if they appear to interfere with the freezer door, then you bolt the freezer door and fridge door together so they function as one door...
 
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