Advice on connectors/connections

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Yooper

Ale's What Cures You!
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When I bought my system, I 'inherited' the sleeve-lock socket type of connectors. I'm buying new tubing soon, and am rethinking the connectors.

I'd have to replace a fair number- I believe 8 on the vessels (counting the CFC), and 4 on the pumps (right now there aren't any on the pumps, it's got barbs and clamps on them) and of course on the ends of the hoses. It's sounded like too much of a PITA for me to want to do it. But I think it's time- the 'balls' inside the sliding sleeve are locking up now and then, plus I never liked them anyway.

First, what do you use? Would you recommend the same to someone else? Also, how big of a PITA is it really going to be to replace them all?
 
I started a relationship with camlocks at least five years ago and it's been pretty monogamous. Very few people have negative opinions of them. Steep discount for you if you want to go that route.
 
I use cam locks on all my connections. The only downside is that you have to pull both tabs down at the same time to lock properly which means using two hands or using one in a weird way.
 
Camlocks for me, all purchased from Bobby, and I love them.
 
I use ca locks as well. I purchased them because they are cheap.
If money hadn't been an issue I would have gone with polysulphone QDs. Single handed operation sure would be nice.
 
Ok, it seems that camlocks from Bobby are the way to go!

Can one of you post a photo, so I can see how they go together, and how they look? I don't mind two-hand operation I guess.

No problems at all? Are the easy to install?

I have 25' of tubing in my cart (or at least had) at BrewHardware, but I see you're out of beverage line at the moment, and I need that too. So I would just as soon order it all once.
 
Bobby has a youtube video on how to stretch the tubing on these. Trust me sounds dumb but after wacthing it I can put one on in about 15 seconds versus the old way of 5 minutes and several objects being thrown across the room.

https://youtu.be/Jq55YGcunrg
 
There have been some advancements since this video but it gives a good idea of how they operate:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHAS7iwWLmQ[/ame]

This one shows more of the practical connectivity.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQhx0BCUfiU[/ame]

The bev tubing should be here in a day or two.
 
Bobby has a youtube video on how to stretch the tubing on these. Trust me sounds dumb but after wacthing it I can put one on in about 15 seconds versus the old way of 5 minutes and several objects being thrown across the room.

https://youtu.be/Jq55YGcunrg

I so took it for granted that everyone knew how to muscle the tubing on until I saw a customer grunting and cursing one on in person. I now regret all the years that people must have been doing the same.
 
I too use camlocks. They are aluminum and I like them, but I'd probably like them more if they were SS. The aluminum version will wear out over a long time, and aluminum tends to be a bit more sticky feeling when using the cams.

I need to pick up a few more as well. I may upgrade when I buy again.

The only problem is they don't have shutoff, but that's not a big deal. They work fine and I don't worry about anything clogging the valve.
 
Agreed. Part of what makes the cams reliable and high flow is that they don't have a lot of moving parts. I haven't come across a QD that had shutoffs and could be high flow as well. You get used to shutting off one of the inline valves (like the one on the pump) to airlock the tubing and keep the liquid from moving. I've sometimes just pinched the tubing near the disconnecting end to do the same. Tradeoffs included, incredible value for what they do.
 
I agree with cam locks Yooper. I tried the Kent HDPE twist locks and found them lacking very quickly once they got heated. Bobby has a great selection and price point on the SS Cam Locks.

Not sure if Bobby covered it in the video(s), but you want females on the ends of your hoses and males on all stationary parts. If you drop a female cam lock it only scratches the outside, which doesn't touch your wort/beer. Kettles, pumps, mash tuns, etc should have a male connector and all hoses should be female connectors at both ends.

As for one handed operation... It took me a little practice, but I can lock them fairly easily with one hand.
 
next question, then!

I have the mcmaster-carr connectors that 1/2". They are threaded into my connections- ball valves, and HERMS connections, pumps, etc.

Are the threads for the male camlock fittings universal, to fit in and replace the male connectors I already have?

I probably want to go ahead and get the "bigger" fittings, without the barbs to avoid restriction, so I also should replace at least two ball valves.
 
I agree with cam locks Yooper. I tried the Kent HDPE twist locks and found them lacking very quickly once they got heated. Bobby has a great selection and price point on the SS Cam Locks.

Not sure if Bobby covered it in the video(s), but you want females on the ends of your hoses and males on all stationary parts. If you drop a female cam lock it only scratches the outside, which doesn't touch your wort/beer. Kettles, pumps, mash tuns, etc should have a male connector and all hoses should be female connectors at both ends.

As for one handed operation... It took me a little practice, but I can lock them fairly easily with one hand.

Thanks, Mouse. I had just written down "male camlocks on vessels", so I could go in there and start counting. I have three ballvalves (probably want to replace two of them), two pumps, and a HERMS system where the fittings come out of the HLT, so I feel the cash register ringing already!

I need to do this, though.
 
I actually just looked on Bobby's site and saw that he had the 3/4" inch NPT to male camlock and just bought two of them. On my center inlet for my pumps I have 3/4 - 1/2" elbows then a male camlock. i never liked the setup as it was a pain to drain out after brew day (the elbows are pointing up towards the kettles) and I didn't want to install a 3/4" - 1/2" reducer then add a male camlock on that, it would stick out to far and I'm already tight on space.

Now I can install the new fittings with the elbows on the camlocks and have a smaller profile and also easier to drain at the end of a brew session.

These are the ones you might want to get if you have a center inlet pump as well: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/camacustom34.htm
 
I got all my camlock fittings from farmhouse brewing supply. Theyve got every kind of fitting youd need (type A F B C C-wide whatever) and its all the same size (1/2" ID) so you dont need to worry about stuff not fitting. Theyve also got high temp silicon tubing thatll work with everything.

Going to camlocks from hose barbs was the best feeling ever
 
Yeah those 3/4 thread As are pretty new and take a lot of the bulk out of the center inlet style pump. It doesn't apply if you have the inline head. Oh, I have the 3/16" barrier tubing in stock now. It just showed up.
 
Yeah those 3/4 thread As are pretty new and take a lot of the bulk out of the center inlet style pump. It doesn't apply if you have the inline head. Oh, I have the 3/16" barrier tubing in stock now. It just showed up.

Can I thread the new male camlock fittings onto what I already have? It seems universally to be so, but I wanted to check. I don't really want to deal with more than that.
 
Yeah those 3/4 thread As are pretty new and take a lot of the bulk out of the center inlet style pump. It doesn't apply if you have the inline head. Oh, I have the 3/16" barrier tubing in stock now. It just showed up.

Also, after watching the video about keeping the system "high flow", I'd like to do that. I do have a smaller CFC, so I know there would be restriction there, but that's something that just has to be. A plate chiller is not in my budget, at least not for the foreseeable future.

I'm going to watch the video again and see if/where I need elbows and such. This could take all day, I think. It seems like there is always a new way to think about items.
 
I believe the camlocks are all NPT, which is national pipe thread. I know I can connect mine with pipe nipples and other pipe. I use a bit of teflon to help them seal up.
 
Also, after watching the video about keeping the system "high flow", I'd like to do that. I do have a smaller CFC, so I know there would be restriction there, but that's something that just has to be. A plate chiller is not in my budget, at least not for the foreseeable future.

I'm going to watch the video again and see if/where I need elbows and such. This could take all day, I think. It seems like there is always a new way to think about items.

Yes, assuming all your valves are 1/2" NPT, and there's a good chance they are, the cam F will thread into all those and any other female threaded pieces you have. If there are any male threaded pieces to connect to, you just need the cam A for those. On the hoses, you can get away with just putting a Big C on all the hose ends to keep it simple unless you know you want a hard 90 degree turn in which case the cam BL is the ticket. Having a restriction at a chiller is not a problem because you most likely can't run the pump full out during cooling anyway.
 
I have cam locks too. I've even learned how to put them on with one hand. Now my other hand gets bored! I bought plenty from Bobby, discount for bulk purchase!
 
Also, after watching the video about keeping the system "high flow", I'd like to do that. I do have a smaller CFC, so I know there would be restriction there, but that's something that just has to be. A plate chiller is not in my budget, at least not for the foreseeable future.

I'm going to watch the video again and see if/where I need elbows and such. This could take all day, I think. It seems like there is always a new way to think about items.

I think I spent 3 days re-configuring my brewery before I made my purchase. Then decided to add an in-line thermometer... Which meant more cam locks and 2 days of redesigning everything. :drunk:

I just picked up an eXtreme 70=quart cooler which has the outlet on the opposite side from the eXtreme 52-quart... So I have to move everything around again... Hopefully Bobby won't be getting another big payment from me!
 
I've watched the video over and over, and seemed to confused myself even more!

Here's where I am confused (I think!). Type F fittings for the kettle/HLT/HERMS coil, but for pumps and the CFC I heard Bobby say Type A. The Type F has the threads that fit into the female fitting- right? So, I may need Type F for the CFC.

I would use Type A for the "in" side of the pump, but Type F on the "out".

Do I have that straight?
 
I counted and recounted, and looked up the parts, and think that I have the parts listed.

For the HLT, it has a HERMS coil inside, and the fittings come out through the side. It is bottom draining, with a ball valve. That's three male type F fittings, I think.

For the MLT, there is a return for the sparge arm in the lid, and a bottom draining vessel with a ball valve. That's two type F males.

For the BK, there is a ball valve and a return/entry point at the top. That's two type F males.

The CFC needs two males, type F.

For the pumps, pump #1 has a ballvalve on both ends. The one is not necessary (never have closed it), but it would be just as easy to leave it and put a male F on both ends.

Pump #2 is where I'm wondering what I need. There is a ballvalve on the out side- and just a hose clamp/fitting on the "in". So I need something for that side- an A? Or would an F just screw right into the threads of the pump? For the out, I need a F male.

That's 13 male parts, on the vessels/pumps/CFC. I think all F, if I understand how this works.
 
Here is how I have my pump setup.

In Port uses a Type A
Out Port uses a Type F

PumpInFlow.jpg


PumpOutFlow.jpg
 
@yooper Check out the pump fitting kit that @bobby_m sells. It will inventory what is going to come with the kit. Exclude what you have (tubing). I found it to be the easier route.

@bobby_m if I am about to drop a ton on your site this weekend, is there a similar discount that you offered @yooper? :)
 
@yooper Check out the pump fitting kit that @bobby_m sells. It will inventory what is going to come with the kit. Exclude what you have (tubing). I found it to be the easier route.

@bobby_m if I am about to drop a ton on your site this weekend, is there a similar discount that you offered @yooper? :)

I watched that video over and over- I still think that I need "F" for the in side of the one pump, due to it having a ballvalve in place (I'll just leave it), but for the other pump I'm unsure. Maybe buy both an A and F? I don't want to take it apart before the new stuff arrives (and I haven't even ordered it yet!) since I'm brewing on Sunday.

@Bobby_M- does the list above look about right? Males on all the vessels, so that makes 13, counting the "in" and "out" of the pump.

For the females, I came up with 11 for the hoses, plus one BL (elbow and female). Or maybe two elbows (via the BL)? They come apart, so I could use one or not, if needed in a different place, right? And if I order two BL, then the rest of the females are type D? or type B? Argggh.

I'm soooooo flummoxed by this!
 
One last question @Bobby_M - I decided on the Type D females for the hoses (except for two BLs with the elbow) but I can't find the 5/8" barb to go with it on your site. Can you tell me the # for it?
 
There is no reason for a valve to be on the pump inlet side and if you never close it, it's just another place to get dirty. I'd take that off and use a cam A on the pump inlet.

I like the BL cams on the hose ends that always attach to vessel drains. It would also make sense on the HERMS inlet since that hose will be coming from the pump below. I like the Cam BigC on all other hose ends.

You can also grab a couple extra of everything so that you can be a little more relaxed and then return whatever you don't need. It won't cost you more than $6 for a flat rate box which can hold quite a few camlocks.

Edit for Yooper's last post.. The video that suggested type D cams with 5/8" barbs is severely out of date. The Cam BigC has replaced the need for that since it has a 5/8 barb attached already. Not only that but it's way cheaper than the combo of parts. Use the Big C.
 
There is no reason for a valve to be on the pump inlet side and if you never close it, it's just another place to get dirty. I'd take that off and use a cam A on the pump inlet.

I like the BL cams on the hose ends that always attach to vessel drains. It would also make sense on the HERMS inlet since that hose will be coming from the pump below. I like the Cam BigC on all other hose ends.

You can also grab a couple extra of everything so that you can be a little more relaxed and then return whatever you don't need. It won't cost you more than $6 for a flat rate box which can hold quite a few camlocks.

Edit for Yooper's last post.. The video that suggested type D cams with 5/8" barbs is severely out of date. The Cam BigC has replaced the need for that since it has a 5/8 barb attached already. Not only that but it's way cheaper than the combo of parts. Use the Big C.

Awesome! Thank you- I'll put the Big C in my cart now and remove the D.

Plus, order a few more than I think I need....................:drunk:
 
I ordered. Thank you so much for all the help, @hello and @CA_Mouse and to Bobby, thank you for the advice and time you spent with me!

And for the discount you offered all of us. You rock! :rockin:
 
Ok, it seems that camlocks from Bobby are the way to go!

Can one of you post a photo, so I can see how they go together, and how they look? I don't mind two-hand operation I guess.

No problems at all? Are the easy to install?

I have 25' of tubing in my cart (or at least had) at BrewHardware, but I see you're out of beverage line at the moment, and I need that too. So I would just as soon order it all once.

With a little practice you can do them one-handed. It's not that tough.

But really, there's not many times when I'm brewing and I'm changing hoses around and both of my hands are not free. I just put my beer down and voila, two hands free.
 
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