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Old 01-23-2006, 06:21 PM   #1
Kaiser
 
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Hi there.

I just built a mash/lauter tun from a 5 gal cooler. In the process of designing it I came across Phil's Phalse Bottom. But then I saw the price: $20 for a 10" piece of plastic with holes in it???. I could understand this price if it was stainless steel.

I ended up making a manifold from copper tubing it doesn't look as nice but worked like a charm yesterday when I used if for the first time.

Kai

 
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Old 01-23-2006, 06:24 PM   #2
DesertBrew
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I went the copper tubing route as well. A bit of manual labor to assemble/cut but works great and at $3 or so...

 
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Old 01-23-2006, 06:37 PM   #3
ajf
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I got a phalse bottom about 10 years ago. I dunno how much it cost, but it still hasn't worn out. It also sits very close to the bottom, which allows much more wort to be extracted. I am sure this extra wort has more than paid for the cost of the device.

-a.

 
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Old 01-24-2006, 04:31 AM   #4
DeRoux's Broux
 
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i use a bazooka-t screen and my efficiency has gone up. my false bottom didn't sit flush /w the bottom of my kettle, so i had a stuck mash almost every brew day. sucked!
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Old 01-24-2006, 12:48 PM   #5
pigpen
 
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My first tun was a 5 gal cooler w/plastic false bottom worked ok,but efficiency was low no matter what i did. Im using a large square cooler w/copper tubing and works very good.I can use alot more grains ,and also doing 10 gal batches,but i cant get my efficiency above 70%. Im wondering if i should mash more then 1 hour.

 
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Old 01-24-2006, 01:13 PM   #6
Mikey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeRoux's Broux
i use a bazooka-t screen and my efficiency has gone up. my false bottom didn't sit flush /w the bottom of my kettle, so i had a stuck mash almost every brew day. sucked!
One design error (since corrected) is the opening of the outflow elbow can get pushed flat against the bottom of the tun by the weight of the mash. This will prevent the flow of wort and make it appear to be a stuck mash.

I cross drilled a hole in the elbow, problem solved.

 
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Old 01-24-2006, 01:26 PM   #7
Baron von BeeGee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pigpen
Im wondering if i should mash more then 1 hour.
Test for conversion...if conversion is complete mashing longer won't help your efficiency. In that case it's either an equipment or procedural problem.

 
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Old 01-24-2006, 02:44 PM   #8
DeRoux's Broux
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey
One design error (since corrected) is the opening of the outflow elbow can get pushed flat against the bottom of the tun by the weight of the mash. This will prevent the flow of wort and make it appear to be a stuck mash.

I cross drilled a hole in the elbow, problem solved.
interesteing. when i used my cooler mash tun, i had the homemade screen from braided SS mesh and copper tubing and never had a problem either. glad they fixed that problem, because i love how it works now!
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Old 01-25-2006, 05:44 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeRoux's Broux
i use a bazooka-t screen and my efficiency has gone up. my false bottom didn't sit flush /w the bottom of my kettle, so i had a stuck mash almost every brew day. sucked!
Hey Brian, I was just reading a review of the bazooka-t the other day and the guy said he had his first stuck mash ever the first time he used it. Have you had any problems with yours? He mentioned something about it not having enough surface area to handle all that grain. And what keeps the mesh screen from collapsing under the weight of the grain?

Also, what do you use in the brew kettle to keep all the hops and trub from transferring to the primary with the wort?

Andy

(side note: I swear I posted this same message last night but it wasn't on the thread when I checked this morning. Weird. )
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Old 01-25-2006, 07:11 AM   #10
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Brian, how did you adapt the bazooka tube to our system? My false bottom does not seal off real good either. I would like to add a filter to it, because the grain that slips by tends to plug up mu new inline male female quick connects. And that perterbs me cause they cost me $17 each, and slows down my pumping............
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