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Old 01-21-2008, 07:12 AM   #1
Aug 2007
Winston Salem, North Carolina
Posts: 12

I have an idea. I had a "chill haze" problem with my Pale Ale. I was told that this was caused by not dropping the wort temperature quick enough. This is my plan...

I have a medium size box that I have lined with a trash can liner. I'll placed my sanatized fermenter in the box and added 1 gallon of carbon filtered water (this keeps the fermenter from floating). Next I surround the fermenter with ice and add water. Now, when the wort has finished boiling and I'm ready to chill, I just dump the wort into the fermenter. Top off the fermenter to 5 gallon (at 70 degrees). Add the yeast and seal with an air lock.

Comments please. I'm using Mutons Light Malt Extract and I really don't want the finished product to be cloudy.


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Old 01-21-2008, 07:17 AM   #2
Sir Humpsalot
Sir Humpsalot's Avatar
Nov 2006
Posts: 4,005
Liked 87 Times on 69 Posts

Just brew a 3 gallon batch of strong beer and add it to two gallons of cold (sanitized) water. No need for the box or anything.
In Process: Mango Beer, Homebrewers Pale Ale
Bottled/Kegged:Spicy Light Rye, Rice-adjunct Pale Ale, Mild Bourbon Porter, Roasty Stout, Basic Light Mead, Bourbon County Stout Clone
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Old 01-21-2008, 08:04 AM   #3
anderj's Avatar
Dec 2007
Boise, ID
Posts: 331
Liked 4 Times on 4 Posts

you can build a wort chiller for around $35, it will cool to pitching temp in 15-20 min. If you plan on brewing into the future the procurement of one is inevitable, so why not build one now.
It took me about 20 to build mine.

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Old 01-21-2008, 04:18 PM   #4
Funkenjaeger's Avatar
May 2007
Nashua, NH
Posts: 1,598
Liked 11 Times on 9 Posts

Clearly you're doing partial boils, which makes cooling your wort a lot easier. How large of a boil are you doing? Usually you can avoid all the hassle by pre-chilling all your top-off water in the fridge, and dunking your brew pot in a sink of ice water for a bit. You'll need to figure out how much to cool the wort in the brew pot before transferring based on the size of your boil.

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Old 01-21-2008, 06:48 PM   #5
Aug 2007
Winston Salem, North Carolina
Posts: 12

2 gallon boil...add 1oz. 6.9AAU Cascade and 6.6# LME. Boil 55 minutes...add 1oz. 6.0AAU Cascade. Boil additional 5 minutes.

My plan is to achieve a "cold break" as quickly as possible to avoid "chill haze". Especially since I'm using a Light Malt Extract. My last batch, Pale Ale, was a little cloudy, even after 3 month conditioning.

A traditional "wort chiller" is not in my budget at this time. That's why I'm looking at other possibilities.

Thanks again for any help with this.

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Old 01-21-2008, 07:01 PM   #6
Aug 2005
Philadelphia area
Posts: 1,573
Liked 13 Times on 13 Posts

I also do two gallon boils. I just fill my kitchen sink half full of cold water, then when the boil is done, I put the whole pot in, followed (carefully, to avoid splashing) by a whole bunch of ice (not the precision measurements) and wait until all the ice melts. Then I just pour it all (except for the sludge) into my brew tank, pitch and off we go.

A wort chiller looks nice and my LHBS has a fine looking one for about $40 but this works just fine for me and my five gallon batches.

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Old 01-21-2008, 07:04 PM   #7
Oct 2007
Posts: 951
Liked 8 Times on 6 Posts

If its a glass carboy for primary I wouldnt pour hot wort into a cold glass vessel it will shock the glass and shatter.

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Old 01-21-2008, 07:15 PM   #8
Jan 2008
Posts: 196
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I used to chill 3 gallons of water to near freezing, then pour into my fermentor.
I would then pour my boiling hot wort directly into the fermentor, and it would chill it quickly down to around 70-80f to get my cold break.

However, I got a couple off tasting beers, and I came to the conclusion that this technique oxidized the wort while still hot, even if only for a fraction of a second.

Instead I just made an IC, and stuck with that. Though I wondered if the technique might have worked if I siphoned the hot wort into the bottom fermentor to get the chill, without oxidizing it?


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