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Old 12-03-2008, 03:41 AM   #161
NikolausXX
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We rolled out 2 25 foot lengths and put in hose. Then catch the end in corney keg handle. Roll keg across floor and coil that way, 1 man operation! I will post pictures when I get my expensive camera back from shop, this sucks.


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Old 12-03-2008, 04:19 AM   #162
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I was actually thinking about this sort of thing today. My question is this: what kind of hops are you guys using? How are you filtering the hops when you drain from the kettle?

I've been using an IC, with a braid in my kettle, but I've noticed that I'm getting some scorching in the area around the braid. It hasn't affected the taste of my beers yet, but I'm still looking to upgrade things.


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Old 12-03-2008, 04:20 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmlavoy View Post
I was actually thinking about this sort of thing today. My question is this: what kind of hops are you guys using? How are you filtering the hops when you drain from the kettle?

I've been using an IC, with a braid in my kettle, but I've noticed that I'm getting some scorching in the area around the braid. It hasn't affected the taste of my beers yet, but I'm still looking to upgrade things.
I'm using a Sanke keg for my boil kettle and it has a "Bazooka T-Screen" in the bottom. Works great as I use whole hops for most of my brews. When I DO use pellet hops I simply place them in a hop bag in the kettle. As far as scorching goes, my T-Screen is held up off the bottom of the kettle about 1cm. This is enough height to keep the wort and hops from getting trapped under the screen and scorching.

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Old 12-04-2008, 02:25 AM   #164
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I may have missed this answer earlier BUT....

How do these things connect to the brew pot? I know my brew pot has a ball valve, but how does the copper tubing stay secured on end of ball valve?


Am I missing something?
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Old 12-04-2008, 02:30 AM   #165
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There are a few options. I think most people use a barb on the ball valve output and use some high-temp tubing to connect to the "wort in" side of the CFC... i think thats the easiest option and the most flexible...
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Old 12-04-2008, 02:41 AM   #166
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I'd suggest using a set of quick disconnects but a hose barb would work.
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Old 12-07-2008, 08:39 PM   #167
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I made this manifold. Click around other photos to see the bottom with the holes. http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/o...sxx/img025.jpg With the chiller and gravity feed it will drain the kettle to the little ring at bottom. I hope this works, have only done test runs with water. I plan on using a hop sack, at least first run so that all I have to worry about clogging me is trub.
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Old 12-12-2008, 11:28 PM   #168
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I got some 1/2"x1/4" reducers at Lowes, and they don't want to fit over the 3/8" soft copper tubing. I could probably force it, but I don't want to deform the soft copper.

Has anyone else had difficulty getting the soft copper to fit through the reducer?
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Old 12-12-2008, 11:34 PM   #169
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Originally Posted by drunkatuw View Post
I got some 1/2"x1/4" reducers at Lowes, and they don't want to fit over the 3/8" soft copper tubing. I could probably force it, but I don't want to deform the soft copper.

Has anyone else had difficulty getting the soft copper to fit through the reducer?
Yep, this is a known issue. There is a "stop" inside the reducer that you'll need to drill out with a 3/8" bit. It's still a tight fit, but if you lube up the soft copper tubing with flux it will go on with a little force.
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Old 12-13-2008, 02:48 AM   #170
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I had to drill mine out too. I did a lot of testing with water, to see if this will work with gravity. And if my homade hop strainer manifold works, it will! I will let you know, tomarow night im brewing a stout. Update, the manifold I made worked great with the chiller. I drilled 30 1/8 inch holes in it. I used a hop bag, had no issues with cloging of the manifold. The chiller worked great with my cold tap water about 1/2 open, chilled wort to about 66-68. Took it about 15 minutes to drain of 5.5 gallons gravity.


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