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Old 01-13-2012, 05:17 PM   #291
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Palmer is a Metallurgist and a Homebrewer. He also says that aluminum pots are fine for brewing.

That means they are fine for brewing...... Why is this still going on.
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:33 PM   #292
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Quick question... how long do you boil water for when you are "conditioning" the alluminion pot?(or whatever the word for it is) and secondly do you clean the pot after u boil the water? And if so how and wist do u use to clean it? Thank you in advance

 
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:59 PM   #293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CliffMongoloid View Post
Quick question... how long do you boil water for when you are "conditioning" the alluminion pot?(or whatever the word for it is) and secondly do you clean the pot after u boil the water? And if so how and wist do u use to clean it? Thank you in advance
1) Depends on your water and such. Normally it ranges from 30-90 minutes (boil time) to get the nice dark coating in the pot.

2) If just water was in it, either dry it out, or let it air dry. Do NOT 'clean' it since you want to keep that dark coating. After using it to boil wort, use a sponge, or cotten towel/rag with some dish soap to clean it. IF you have crud in it, use the most mild scrubber you have and be gentle with it. Again, you want to leave that coating intact.
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Old 02-08-2012, 06:06 PM   #294
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Just wanted to post a thanks for the waresdirect.com recommendation. Although the company has abysmal reviews online, I received my new 10 gal. aluminum heavy pot without any issues in about a week.

 
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:58 PM   #295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CliffMongoloid View Post
Quick question... how long do you boil water for when you are "conditioning" the alluminion pot?(or whatever the word for it is) and secondly do you clean the pot after u boil the water? And if so how and wist do u use to clean it? Thank you in advance
I would not fret much about conditioning the pot. This is good advice, and likely worth doing, but not worth getting hung up on IMO. Aluminum oxide forms almost instantaneously in air, the boiling water merely provides a thicker layer of oxide. After one batch, you will have plenty oxide layer.

I have never heard the comment that someone was lacking enough alum oxide and had issues w/ the finished beer.

 
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:59 AM   #296
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FlyGuy,
Where do I learn what this "passive oxide layer must be built up before brewing (**see note below) with a new aluminum kettle, although it is very easy to maintain is"? There were no *s below your original post

 
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Old 02-15-2012, 03:06 AM   #297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstraight
FlyGuy,
Where do I learn what this "passive oxide layer must be built up before brewing (**see note below) with a new aluminum kettle, although it is very easy to maintain is"? There were no *s below your original post
Just boil water in it for 30 minutes and you are good to go. You will see a discoloring. That is a good thing.
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Old 02-15-2012, 03:07 AM   #298
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Just don't scrub that dark layer away
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:56 AM   #299
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HOLY CRAP I'VE REACHED THE END OF THE THREAD!!! What a journey.

Thanks to all of you that commented. This took me a couple hours to get through. Based on all the knowledge shared, I'm going to end up going with either: http://www.katom.com/158-5814140.html
or
http://www.katom.com/158-5813140.html
or
http://www.katom.com/158-5814132.html

The differences in these two types being the 6mm (2 gauge) or 4mm (6 gauge). And $20. I'm thinkin' more along the lines of the thicker metal = more even heating and it should fit on my stove without a problem.

I'm not sure I can justify going up to a 40qt as I doubt I'll be doing more than 5 gal batches for quite some time....indecision!

 
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:43 PM   #300
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I think you would be fine with the 4mm pot. I bought a 4mm 60 quart pot with lid for a hundred bucks and I cannot believe how thick it is. 4mm is just under a 1/4" thick. I had a hard time getting my heating element to be leak free, but I got it.



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