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Old 09-05-2008, 04:39 AM   #51
bludrgn
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Feb 2008
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Ok then what is the best way to set up the T connection from the pots to the disconnects. I have decided to use a nipple to join the T to the HLT since this unit is only going to be used it that pot. However the T for the mash tun also needs to be able to move to the Boil kettle to measure the temps will chilling. I suspose I could get two sets of the more beer QDs just for that purpose and use the others on the rest of the joints but is there a better way? My wells have a .260" stem bore so I am worried about the amount of flow from the 1/4" open in the female QD.

 
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Old 09-05-2008, 05:36 AM   #52
brewjunky
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pldoolittle View Post
Look for Pressure Washing Suppliers. We use those things daily in steel, brass, and SS. Available in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2". We use Viton O rings for 220F at 300psi, so they should suffice for any beer service.

Budget QC's at PressureTek
Budget in SS
Budget in brass


Better quality QC's at PressureTek
Better in SS
Better in Brass




Yes, but they are less commonly available. Ask for a Double Shut Off QC.



$10.00?!?. I'd keep looking or adapt down to 3/8". A 3/8" female brass QC will only cost cost you about $2 in brass and $3.75 in stainless.
Those QD look like a great deal I just wish they had them with 1/2 FPT with 3/8 I have to by Adapters for all my male connections

 
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Old 09-05-2008, 12:05 PM   #53
bull8042
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I know the polysulfone connectors have already been mentioned here and they are a little more expensive. But if anyone is still interested in using them, here is the best prices and selection I have found. I have bought a lot from them and am very satisfied. Usually takes a week before they ship, just to be forewarned.
QuickCouplings
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Old 09-05-2008, 12:50 PM   #54
Philip1993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewjunky View Post
Those QD look like a great deal I just wish they had them with 1/2 FPT with 3/8 I have to by Adapters for all my male connections
Search around. 1/2" is available, but it's not as common because they are generally not used for machines less than 10gpm.

 
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Old 09-06-2008, 03:38 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bull8042 View Post
I know the polysulfone connectors have already been mentioned here and they are a little more expensive. But if anyone is still interested in using them, here is the best prices and selection I have found. I have bought a lot from them and am very satisfied. Usually takes a week before they ship, just to be forewarned.
QuickCouplings
Which series and size did you buy. There are a lot of different ones on that site

 
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Old 09-06-2008, 05:25 AM   #56
billtzk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bludrgn View Post
Ok then what is the best way to set up the T connection from the pots to the disconnects. I have decided to use a nipple to join the T to the HLT since this unit is only going to be used it that pot. However the T for the mash tun also needs to be able to move to the Boil kettle to measure the temps will chilling. I suspose I could get two sets of the more beer QDs just for that purpose and use the others on the rest of the joints but is there a better way? My wells have a .260" stem bore so I am worried about the amount of flow from the 1/4" open in the female QD.
I don't use a T-connection on my HLT because I had a spare 1/2 inch coupling on the side of my HLT that wasn't otherwise employed. My thermowell for the HLT is six inches long, so it extends about 5 inches into the HLT. The temp probe is removable from the thermowell, but the thermowell is permanently installed in the HLT.

My thermowells have a 1/2 inch outside diameter, so I couldn't use a 1/2 inch T for the MLT ball valve. Even the short 2.5 inch thermowell I bought for my MLT would block the 1/2 inch T inlet and not allow adequate fluid flow. So I used the 1/2 by 1/2 by 3/4 T. The T is connected to a 3/4 close nipple, and then a 3/4 by 1/4 bell coupling, then a 1/4 close nipple, and finally a 3/8th female QD sleeve to attach to the male QD nipple that is screwed into my MLB ball valve. The outer 1/2 inch port on the T is where the thermowell is installed. The bottom 1/2 inch port has another male QD nipple on it so I can attach the pump hose. The 3/4 end of the T with the extra length provided by the 3/4 close nipple and 3/4 by 1/4 bell coupling leaves plenty of room for the thermowell without impeding the fluid flow.
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Old 09-08-2008, 12:31 PM   #57
bull8042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewjunky View Post
Which series and size did you buy. There are a lot of different ones on that site
HFC24835 - 1/2" NPT insert
HFC17835 - 1/2" Hose Barb Body
HFCD17835 - 1/2" Hose Barb Body with shutoff valve

The "insert" is the male portion of the disconnect and the "body" is the female side. I love these things. I know they are a bit more expensive than the brass, but they don't get as hot when flowing hot liquids and they are available with every configuration you could want. Plus, this is what I started with and I want everything to be interchangeable.
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Old 06-05-2010, 03:18 PM   #58
mrbugawkagawk
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try these guys, we use a couple of things at the brewery i work at

http://colder.com/

 
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:35 PM   #59
BklynCyclone
 
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Between PressureTek, McMaster, and Bargain Fittings I pulled together an all stainless steel set of quick connects for about $15.50 a set.

McMaster Stainless 1/2" to 3/8" bushing: $3 ea
PressureTek QCs (3/8" stainless NPT): $4.07 (Female) $1.92 (Male w/ 3/8" MPT)
Bargain Fittings: 3/8" stainless NPT to 1/2" Hose Barb: $6.50

The 3/8" NPT is a pain doubled the cost, but still, $15.50 is pretty good. Furthermore, the inside of the 1/2" hose barb is the tightest diameter, so nothing is more constricted than this.

I paired this all with Northern Brewer's 1/2" ID Thermoplastic tubing and will have (2) 8' and (1) 4' hose built for less than $80 all in (including hose clamps and bushings to adapt to my 1/2" FPT ball valves.

 
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