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Old 12-07-2007, 06:36 PM   #1
CallMeZoot
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I'd like to brew up a Sam Adams Honey Porter clone, and I found this recipe. (Also reproduced below).

It calls for 3 pounds of honey but does not specify when to add it. Should I assume, then, that the honey is for priming? If so, isn't 3 pounds an awful lot for priming?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
chris.



Ingredients:

* 1/2 lb. black patent malt crushed
* 1/2 lb. chocolate malt crushed
* 1 lb. medium crystal malt crushed
* 6 lbs. amber malt syrup
* 3 lbs. light honey
* 1 oz. Perles - boiling (60 minutes)
* 1/2 oz. Fuggles - boiling (30 minutes)
* 1/2 oz. Fuggles - finishing (5 minutes)
* Wyeast 1084 "Irish Ale"

Procedure:
Steep the crushed specialty grains from cold up to 160-170F and remove. Bring water to boil, turn off the heat before adding the malt extract to avoid scorching. Bring back to a boil and add boiling hops, after 30 minutes add the flavor hops, and at 55 minutes the finishing hops. Optionally add 1 tsp. Irish Moss at 45 minutes into the boil to help the break. Remove from heat, cool to 70F, transfer to carboy topping up to 5 gallons, and pitch yeast.
Specifics:

* O.G. - 1.062
* F.G. - 1.016
* Primary: 1 week
* Secondary: 4 weeks



 
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Old 12-07-2007, 06:53 PM   #2
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usually honey is added in the last 10 min of the boil

the longer honey is boiled the more of it's flavor is lost


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Old 12-07-2007, 07:01 PM   #3
CallMeZoot
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Ok, and should I turn off the heat before adding it, as I would with an extract (to avoid scorching)? I don't usually like to stop the boil so late in the game.

chris.

 
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Old 12-07-2007, 07:45 PM   #4
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Turn the heat off before you add it, for the reason you mentioned. I bet you could just add it at flameout, too.


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Old 12-07-2007, 07:54 PM   #5
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or add it to primary after cooling the wort.

 
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Old 12-07-2007, 08:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z987k
or add it to primary after cooling the wort.
You might have some sanitation concerns there. While microbes cannot grow in honey, due to insufficient water activity, they may hang around on the surface.

I've never made a mead, but the meadmakers I know pasteurize their . . . whatever it's called.


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Old 12-08-2007, 05:12 AM   #7
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If you want the aroma from the honey, add it as late as possible. I would add it while it is boiling to sanitize it. I've made a few meads already where I have added a couple of pounds of honey over the course of 2 weeks, about 23# in all (came close to 20%) w/o boiling-just heated it up in a bit of water and added some yeast nutrients. I think that if you don't turn off the heat, stir it constantly to avoid scorching.

 
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Old 12-08-2007, 08:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexLaw
You might have some sanitation concerns there. While microbes cannot grow in honey, due to insufficient water activity, they may hang around on the surface.

I've never made a mead, but the meadmakers I know pasteurize their . . . whatever it's called.


TL
I did this to my honey wheat... 3lbs to the 5.5 gallons after the fermentation had taken a good hold.

In our 8 gallons of mead we have going no there was no heating of any sort. Honey is usually pasteurized anyways and any further heating only destroys the flavor and aroma (especially boiling temps). I truly vote for no heat to the honey at all.

 
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Old 12-08-2007, 01:54 PM   #9
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I made a honey ale a while back and added my 3 lbs at flameout. And when it was time to bottle, I primed with 4.7 oz of honey added to a cup of boiling water with the flame out and then brought back to a boil. It turned out nicely. Fermentation took a lot longer, but it was worth it.

 
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Old 12-08-2007, 01:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z987k
I Honey is usually pasteurized anyways and any further heating only destroys the flavor and aroma (especially boiling temps). I truly vote for no heat to the honey at all.
Store bought honey may be pasteurized, But the old guy at the farmer's market may not do anything with his.



 
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