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Old 05-26-2014, 04:09 AM   #51
MindenMan
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Even though it is a bit more work, I vorlauf until the wort is clear, ( which is something I have read to do) and all the small stuff is now locked into the grain bed. Okay, there is a a tiny bit of particulate, but is basically clear.
I have no idea how long it takes me, as I recirculate it by hand. At that point, I slowly drain my tun into my BK. I had never checked the temperature of the wort after the sparge has started, until the other day and surprise!,180 * F water was now 146* F after the cooled off grain was once again covered in water. Doesn't sound much like sparging temperature does it? So, I changed my method. I know by experience I am going to need about 7 gallons in the BK to start, so I pour 3 gallons of boiling water onto my grain bed, give a small stir, cover and wait ten minutes before I slowly drain my grain bed at the same rate it is being refilled. I have found a 2" head of water helps to prevent stuck sparges. This step usually takes 30 min., or so. I now pour 1 gallon of boiling water on the grain bed, give it a good stir, wait another 10 or so minutes, recirculate 3 or 4 times and then check the gravity again. If the temperature corrected gravity gives a reading of greater than 1.015, I will throw another gallon of water and check gravity again. I realize my methods are crude and time consuming, but I still make beer I am proud of.


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Aging from last year: Hard Cider, Triple Chocolate Stout, American Amber II
First fermenter: American Mild
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3 new hard ciders, first is a Apple Raspberry, second will be a Apple Grape, and third Apple Cranberry. These will all become Jacked Ciders
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Old 05-26-2014, 08:42 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MindenMan View Post
Even though it is a bit more work, I vorlauf until the wort is clear, ( which is something I have read to do) and all the small stuff is now locked into the grain bed. Okay, there is a a tiny bit of particulate, but is basically clear.
I have no idea how long it takes me, as I recirculate it by hand. At that point, I slowly drain my tun into my BK. I had never checked the temperature of the wort after the sparge has started, until the other day and surprise!,180 * F water was now 146* F after the cooled off grain was once again covered in water. Doesn't sound much like sparging temperature does it? So, I changed my method. I know by experience I am going to need about 7 gallons in the BK to start, so I pour 3 gallons of boiling water onto my grain bed, give a small stir, cover and wait ten minutes before I slowly drain my grain bed at the same rate it is being refilled. I have found a 2" head of water helps to prevent stuck sparges. This step usually takes 30 min., or so. I now pour 1 gallon of boiling water on the grain bed, give it a good stir, wait another 10 or so minutes, recirculate 3 or 4 times and then check the gravity again. If the temperature corrected gravity gives a reading of greater than 1.015, I will throw another gallon of water and check gravity again. I realize my methods are crude and time consuming, but I still make beer I am proud of.
With fly sparging the grain bed is always submerged so its not going to cool off. I checked the gravity several times during the lauter and I stopped at .010 and double checked the runnings after a few more mins. One trick for young players is make sure you close at least one valve when you switch the pump off otherwise some of your prized wort gets sucked right back into the mashtun - don't ask how I know that..


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Old 05-26-2014, 08:49 AM   #53
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Here's a lautering/fly sparging action shot from the last brew day.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/photo/lautering-63043.html
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Old 05-26-2014, 03:37 PM   #54
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Okay, you win. Doesn't mean I'm not jealous though... BTW, nice set up!
Are prices as high where you live, like Australia has when it comes to buying a six pack? If I may ask, what dies grain cost a Kilo?
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Aging from last year: Hard Cider, Triple Chocolate Stout, American Amber II
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3 new hard ciders, first is a Apple Raspberry, second will be a Apple Grape, and third Apple Cranberry. These will all become Jacked Ciders
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:18 PM   #55
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Okay, you win. Doesn't mean I'm not jealous though... BTW, nice set up!
Are prices as high where you live, like Australia has when it comes to buying a six pack? If I may ask, what dies grain cost a Kilo?
www.brewshop.co.nz will give you an idea. Mostly we get a dozen in nz, ranges from say $14-24nz (usually theres a reasonable lager on special for $20ish). Craft beer is $6+ for a 500ml bottle, most are $7-9.. probably the best deal for something crafty is a 'Founders' pale ale or ipa 6pack (6x330ml) for $14nz.
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:52 PM   #56
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Does 5 liters of volume below the false bottom on a 23L batch seem like a lot to anyone else?
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:57 PM   #57
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Quote:
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Does 5 liters of volume below the false bottom on a 23L batch seem like a lot to anyone else?

And it used to be 9.5L!!


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Old 06-12-2014, 01:40 AM   #58
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Right so I now have a monster mill 2, and a refractometer, and have verified my thermometers are accurate. Was hoping to brew this coming weekend but due to not getting the hopper made it will likely be next weekend. But when I do brew I will report back on my results.. hopefully improved results. I have brewed since this thread started and slowed my sparge down (a lot) and increased sparge temp, but ran into some other issues (strike temp issues as batch was smaller), also used the same LHBS crush which I now suspect to be the main culprit. Anyway.. watch this space
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Old 07-28-2014, 04:00 AM   #59
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Here is the first test of my spanking MM2 SS - set to the factory default of .045" (gap set by me because the unit came apart during shipping)

The crush looks pretty good to me..

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Old 07-28-2014, 11:20 PM   #60
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Here is the first test of my spanking MM2 SS - set to the factory default of .045" (gap set by me because the unit came apart during shipping)

The crush looks pretty good to me..

Looks decent. I think you may be better served if you clamp down a little more (I run mine at .039). I have also started pre-wetting my grains the night before or first thing in the morning of my brewday and double mill. I get a great crush with nearly intact hulls. This increased my efficiency by 3%. I think the lowest efficiency I've gotten lately was when using 40% white wheat, efficiency was 79%. My baseline has been 83% to 85% for barley only mashes. I am brewing tomorrow or Wednesday and will post a pic of my crush (both first pass and second pass).


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