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Old 12-17-2013, 08:21 PM   #2921
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here it is for now, Rims tool box below, two chugger pumps and SS table tops with galv shelves below price FREE 99.

will one day be an all Electric Rig with 240V control panel.

-=Jason=-


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Old 12-24-2013, 03:29 AM   #2922
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Those kegs are beauty, how long does it take to polish one like that?


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Old 12-24-2013, 04:34 AM   #2923
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Hours. And best not done indoors...

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/poli...phemism-54025/

Cheers!
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Old 12-25-2013, 09:58 AM   #2924
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First brew on the new stand and new pump this Sunday. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-01-2014, 10:20 PM   #2925
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Here's the new rendering (it's missing the casters for some reason).

The long vertical bar is for mounting a Pot Filling Faucet on. This faucet will fill the HLT and MT with water.

Each of the burners will have a stainless steel cover with an 11 inch diameter hole cut into it. This will prevent the heat from the burners from washing up the keggle. These covers are removable to wash and access the top of the burner.

The chugger pumps will have splash guards on them to prevent any liquids from dripping on the pumps. The pumps can be moved forward or backward to accommodate a horizontal or vertical pump head installation.

The control box will be mounted on the left side. This will control the HLT temperature for the HERMS and also turn on/off pumps and accessories.

So here's the best things. All the stainless steel will be purchased at cost from my buddy's company. We will pay one of his builders to laser cut all the parts and press all the angles (he takes cash and beer as payment). I'll be posting images of the build progress as it's made.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:28 PM   #2926
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Here's the Hot Liquor Tank with HERMS installed. I also installed a weldless fitting 2000 watt heating element that's connected to a Johnson A419 temperature controller.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:47 PM   #2927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcaudill View Post
Can't remember if I posted this up here or not! So just in case:



30 gallon direct-fired RIMS with Brewtroller. All kettles interconnected via hard pipe and 3 way valves control the direction of flow. All soft tubing is 3/4" ID chlorobutyl brewery hose. Ceramic coated 1" steel tube stand, combination high and low pressure propane, 30-plate chiller, inline aeration. Last mod will be hard plumbing the water into the end of the main rail instead of direct to the HLT. This also gives me a CIP entry/exit point.
I'm in the process of designing my brew stand, which is similar to yours. My mechanical engineer friend and I could benefit by seeing some more images of your brew stand. Did you design/build it yourself?

Mike
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:50 PM   #2928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EmDubeu View Post
I'm in the process of designing my brew stand, which is similar to yours. My mechanical engineer friend and I could benefit by seeing some more images of your brew stand. Did you design/build it yourself?

Mike
Yep sure did - contact me via PM and I'll help however I can.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:56 PM   #2929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EmDubeu View Post
Here's the new rendering (it's missing the casters for some reason).

The long vertical bar is for mounting a Pot Filling Faucet on. This faucet will fill the HLT and MT with water.

Each of the burners will have a stainless steel cover with an 11 inch diameter hole cut into it. This will prevent the heat from the burners from washing up the keggle. These covers are removable to wash and access the top of the burner.

The chugger pumps will have splash guards on them to prevent any liquids from dripping on the pumps. The pumps can be moved forward or backward to accommodate a horizontal or vertical pump head installation.

The control box will be mounted on the left side. This will control the HLT temperature for the HERMS and also turn on/off pumps and accessories.

So here's the best things. All the stainless steel will be purchased at cost from my buddy's company. We will pay one of his builders to laser cut all the parts and press all the angles (he takes cash and beer as payment). I'll be posting images of the build progress as it's made.
Two quick comments for you:

1) You may want to consider making the burner height adjustable. I designed this into my stand and have taken advantage of it several times. You just don't know for sure where those burners need to be and it gives you no flexibility if you need to make a change later that involves where the kettles will be.

2) I'd recommend elevating the kettles off your stand somehow. You don't want to trap that heat and it'll stop the stand from getting super-heated. Those burners need room to breath.

Good luck!

2)
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:31 PM   #2930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcaudill View Post
Two quick comments for you:

1) You may want to consider making the burner height adjustable. I designed this into my stand and have taken advantage of it several times. You just don't know for sure where those burners need to be and it gives you no flexibility if you need to make a change later that involves where the kettles will be.

2) I'd recommend elevating the kettles off your stand somehow. You don't want to trap that heat and it'll stop the stand from getting super-heated. Those burners need room to breath.

Good luck!

2)
I like your idea about the adjustable burners. I'll engineer some slots for the burner to adjust up or down. My original measurements of the distance between the burner and the kettle was based upon my blichmann burner. The burner is at 2 3/4 inches away from the kettle.

I'm torn about elevating the kettles off the stand, per your suggestion. I'm really trying to keep the heat from the burner washing up on all my valves and element cable. With my burner covers that I've designed, the heat will dissipate around and outside the brewstand. I understand this may heat up the stand...


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