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Old 11-29-2007, 08:57 PM   #1
burton178
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I already posted in the DIY forum, but the thread was so long that I don't know if anybody is seeing the post.
I don't mean to be impatient, but I'm going to stop by Lowe's on the way home...
Here is my post from the other thread:


I've read about how to make the round MLT with the Rubbermaid drink cooler. I have a rectangle cooler (I'm not sure but I think it's about 10 gallons. I'd say it's "medium" sized from what I've seen with a lot of coolers).

My question is... Can I still do the 12" stainless steel braid or does it have to be bigger?
Also, the drain hole on the cooler is a few inches above the bottom. Could I just prop the other end of the cooler up during the whole process to put the drain hole more toward "the bottom." I would secure it so it wouldn't slip, of course.

Thanks a bunch!


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Old 11-29-2007, 09:36 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burton178
My question is... Can I still do the 12" stainless steel braid or does it have to be bigger?
This is what I use (I batch sparge).

Quote:
Originally Posted by burton178
Also, the drain hole on the cooler is a few inches above the bottom. Could I just prop the other end of the cooler up during the whole process to put the drain hole more toward "the bottom." I would secure it so it wouldn't slip, of course.
I would tip it toward the end (if you batch sparge).


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Old 11-29-2007, 09:38 PM   #3
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Take a look at Appendix D of How to Brew, which addresses some ways to build a manifold for a rectangular cooler. Hopefully, this will point you in the right direction.
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Old 11-29-2007, 09:57 PM   #4
burton178
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I've read the Palmer instructions and it is a bit confusing to me. Copper is fairly expensive right now and I have to do everything on as little a budget as possible.
My question is whether or not the stainless steel braid will work in the rectangle cooler, or not... Is there any reason it wouldn't?
(thanks jonsharp for your reply)
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Old 11-30-2007, 12:14 AM   #5
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I use a stainless in an Ice Cube style cooler and it works fine. You'll find that when you go to the hardware store, it's a matter of $1-$2 bucks to get a longer SS hose. I think mine's around 18" (that's what she said.)

 
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Old 11-30-2007, 01:17 AM   #6
BrianP
 
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The stainless braid of that length will be fine if you batch sparge. However, don't count out the manifold option.

I have a round 10 gal MLT and am thinking of either replacing the braid with a manifold or using a T fitting and a longer braid to make a circular configuration. I find that the typical 'straight' configuration gets tangled up when I stir the mash, and I wonder if it's down at the bottom where it should be.

There's a photo in the FlyGuy DIY MLT thread showing the round-style braid, and I think BierMuncher has a photo of his manifold. If I recall correctly, I think he left the connections un-soldered so he could take it apart for cleaning. I might try that since I'm not handy with a torch and haven't tried soldering yet.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-30-2007, 02:42 AM   #7
burton178
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Thanks... I will definitely get a 18 or 20 inch SS braid for my cooler. I'll see how it works and go from there. I appreciate the help!
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Old 11-30-2007, 03:26 AM   #8
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I use the braid in a rectangular cooler.
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Old 11-30-2007, 11:38 AM   #9
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Here's my rectangular cooler MLT with a stainless braid.

http://brewing.lustreking.com/gear/mashtun.html
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Old 11-30-2007, 03:50 PM   #10
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I should add that I used to prop up the back end of my old rectangular cooler with a block of 2x4 to aid in draining, and it worked fine.

Though I haven't personally experimented with this, I have read that (if you are batch sparging) a longer braid is not necessarily better. Some say that a shorter braid will clear faster than a longer braid. I think my braid is currently around 8 inches after cutting the fittings off and crimping the one end over onto itself.


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