The10mmKid and Brumateur... thank you all for your help in understanding the options and how to get it done. I am going to ponder which route I want to go... haven't bought anything yet! I am not sure if i really need more granularity in my control of the element wattage.
My initial plan was to setup and auto-tune the PID to 120V, heat the water to my mash temperature and let the 120V circuit control the mash temperature. Once I mashout and remove the grain from the kettle I would switch to 240V mode and control the boil manually via the PID... essentially I will get a 1375 W OR a 5500 W element.
On the other hand I would have to use the Rheostat to dial in my preferred mashing wattage (anywhere between 0 W and 5500 W) and auto-tune the PID (I will have a volt meter and ammeter on the panel to verify the wattage to the element with each brew). The PID will then control my mash temperature at my dialed in mash wattage. Once I mashout and remove the grain from the kettle I would turn the rheostat to full power and control the boil manually via the PID.
I do know one thing... I am probably better off getting a SYL-2362 because of the flexability.
'da Kid... I gave up trying to find a rotary replacement for the toggle... better I think I am better off with the toggle if I go that route.
Originally Posted by The10mmKid
...Very easy to wire also, just need to give the output some voltage verses the PID making it's own (12VDC in your case)
What did you mean by the above statement? Do you have a diagram/example that describes this a little better? I can't seem to get my head wrapped around it.