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Old 08-28-2011, 11:51 AM   #11
millstone
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I've used keg lube (just a touch) with success

tom

 
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:19 PM   #12
kal
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Boiling water is indeed required.I boiled a kettle and then let the tubing sit in it for about30-60 seconds.

FWIW however I used 1/4" tubing so it's not the same stuff as what you used.

Kal

 
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:06 PM   #13
lagavulin
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Tried the silicone and boiling technique.

I had to boil the end of the tubing for a good minute. To get the nipple started on the tubing I held the swivel nut with vice grips.

I was able to do it in shifts. I'd barely get the tail piece on (just enough to stay on the tubing. And then submerge the tail piece and tubing in the boiling water for about 20 seconds. Remove from the water and complete installation.

*** Be Careful** the tail piece heats up quick and will split the tubing if it gets too hot.

 
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:12 PM   #14
EFaden
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You can also use MFLs instead. You can get swivel nuts all the way down to 1/8" and then use MFL disconnects. That's the way mine is setup.
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:32 PM   #15
lagavulin
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Hey Eric, can you elaborate and provide links?

Thanks.

 
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:35 PM   #16
EFaden
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http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?...0c1a02fa403bf4

and

http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?...0c1a02fa403bf4
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:41 PM   #17
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I use these whenever possible... http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=13

Of course, I also have some of the stainless (also threaded) QD's to allow me to fit more kegs in my current brew fridge. Once I get a keezer built, that could change.

BTW, nothing against the guy from Chi, but he's extremely slow to respond to emails, and getting him on the phone typically takes hours/days. Due to issues I had getting my first order from him (delayed over a week) I'm extremely reluctant to order again. Especially when I can email the guys at Keg Connection and have a response same day (business day). If I call up, I have someone on the phone quickly and have the info I wanted. IMO, customer service is just as important (or more so) than lower costs.
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:49 PM   #18
lagavulin
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Thanks Eric, I didn't know anyone sold 1/8th swivels.

Golddiggie, kegconnection doesn't have 1-8th swivels listed, have they sold them in the past?

 
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:59 PM   #19
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You don't want to go smaller than the ID of the tubing. If anything go the same size, or a hair larger. Such as I use 5/16" ID gas tubing, on 5/16" swivel nuts. But my beer line is 3/16" ID (better in many peoples opinions) so the nuts are 1/4". The nuts on the swivel nuts go to 1/4" MFL, which is standard issue on disconnects, manifolds, bulkheads, etc...
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Hopping Tango Brewery

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On Tap: Caramel Ale, Mocha Porter II, MO SMaSH IPA
Waiting/Carbonating: 12.5% Wee Honey II, 8.9% Old Ale, English Brown Ale, Lickah ESB, Mocha Porter II
Fermenting
K1:
K2: Epic mead
K3: TripSix
On Deck: Caramel Ale
Aging:mead
Mead [bottled]:Oaked Wildflower Traditional, Mocha Madness, Blackberry Melomel, maple wine

 
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Old 08-28-2011, 05:09 PM   #20
EFaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golddiggie View Post
You don't want to go smaller than the ID of the tubing. If anything go the same size, or a hair larger. Such as I use 5/16" ID gas tubing, on 5/16" swivel nuts. But my beer line is 3/16" ID (better in many peoples opinions) so the nuts are 1/4". The nuts on the swivel nuts go to 1/4" MFL, which is standard issue on disconnects, manifolds, bulkheads, etc...
+1. I wasn't really suggesting using the 1/8" Barbs.. just noting they had them. I actually have some 1/8" line I use for resistance on soda lines. But I would take either the same ID barb as the line or a little bigger, otherwise you are asking for leaks.
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