First all-grain setup with keggles?

Hello all,

I am thinking of stepping up to all grain brewing this month and would like to know the best options. I found two kegs for scrap so I was thinking of at least using one for the boil kettle.

1. For the boil kettle, what are my best options for fittings? I guess I would like a valve, thermometer, and sight glass at least. What specific parts would I need?

2. Would I be better off using the other keg or a cooler for the mash tun. I would like the option to do 5 or 10 gallon batches. Same questions apply as to what fittings I would need..

Thanks guys. I've seen a lot of threads on to how to actually build the kettle, but not many linking the actual parts needed...

I have a 15 gallon keggle that I use as my boil kettle. I'd go with a sight glass, ball valve and thermometer, the are all essentials. As for a mash tun i'd go with an igloo cooler. They are cheaper and easier to use unless you plan on build a HERMS or RIMS system

nhindian said:

Hello all,



I am thinking of stepping up to all grain brewing this month and would like to know the best options. I found two kegs for scrap so I was thinking of at least using one for the boil kettle.



1. For the boil kettle, what are my best options for fittings? I guess I would like a valve, thermometer, and sight glass at least. What specific parts would I need?



2. Would I be better off using the other keg or a cooler for the mash tun. I would like the option to do 5 or 10 gallon batches. Same questions apply as to what fittings I would need..



Thanks guys. I've seen a lot of threads on to how to actually build the kettle, but not many linking the actual parts needed...

Click to expand...

I recommend you get yourself ss 3 piece ball valves. All these fittings you can get from Bobby at brewhardware.com. If you want he even has silver solder kits so you do need to instal weldless fittings. Only problem is you can't screw anything in from the inside (ex dip tube).

As for a mash tun, a cooler is a better option at first because temp controlling a keg/any kettle is a bit challenging. If you want the ability to do bigger massages just get an appropriate sized cooler. Like a 70qt Coleman extreme that's what I have.

I know you asked for the parts, but really just surf that site and see what you do and don't want. Bobby also has a YouTube channel showing how to instal some of his things like the sight glass. Good luck


- ISM NRP

Thanks guys.

What is the difference between these two valves?

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=243
http://brewhardware.com/valves-69/94-3pbv

The first link is a 3- Way ball valve. Meaning you can have three seperate hoses coming off of it. Usually one inlet and two outlets. The second link is a standard 3-piece ball valve, that only has one inlet and one outlet.

nhindian said:

Hello all,

I am thinking of stepping up to all grain brewing this month and would like to know the best options. I found two kegs for scrap so I was thinking of at least using one for the boil kettle.

1. For the boil kettle, what are my best options for fittings? I guess I would like a valve, thermometer, and sight glass at least. What specific parts would I need?

2. Would I be better off using the other keg or a cooler for the mash tun. I would like the option to do 5 or 10 gallon batches. Same questions apply as to what fittings I would need..

Thanks guys. I've seen a lot of threads on to how to actually build the kettle, but not many linking the actual parts needed...

Click to expand...

For #1 another vote for Brew hardware, I have Bobby's sight glass thermometer combos on my BK and HLT they are quality pieces.

For #2 that's like asking how you like your meat cooked you will get lots of answers, personally I have 3 converted kegs and I direct fire my mash tun, after seeing another brewer use a converted cooler and have trouble getting the dough in temp right (started to low then added hot water and over shot and had to add cold water to bring down) I knew I wanted a direct fired mash tun. I use an old comforter to wrap the tun in once the temp is where I want it and I usually only drop a degree or 2 over an hour.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

OK... Are these what I need for my boil keggle?

Bulkhead + dip tube - $36: http://brewhardware.com/valves-69/146-wldip58

Sight glass + 3" thermometer - $54: http://brewhardware.com/measurement-devices/wlsightglass-60/93-weldless-large-sight-glass-tee-kit

3-piece ball valve - $18: http://brewhardware.com/valves-69/94-3pbv

Anything else?

So if I use the Coleman Xtreme 70qt, should I use a bazooka screen or manifold? If manifold, copper or CPVC?

Those setups you have are the examples of the standard BK setup. With the cooler it all depends on how you want to take it. I use a simple SS braided hose and it works fine. If you make a manifold you could make it out of either copper or CPVC. If I were to make one I would use the CPVC.

Personally, after installing a sight glass on my boil kettle - i wouldn't do it again. Even with a heat shield, the wort can easily boil out of the glass and make a mess. It's just one more hole in your BK that may potentially leak and there's very limited utility in a sight glass on the BK. It's much simpler to just have a graduated stick of some kind.

Also, they can get REALLY filthy and you're going to need a brush to get in there after every session.

A bulkhead, side dip tube and valve would be my recommendation. Skip the sight glass and thermometer. A hand-held digital thermometer (like the CDN bobby sells) is going to be more accurate and versatile than an installed analogue thermometer.

If you have a bench vice and a crescent wrench, the 2-piece valves are actually easier to disassemble than the three piece versions and they're cheaper.

+1 for the 2 piece valves.

All I have on my BK is a 2 piece valve.

I totally agree with the the comments above about avoiding a site glass on the BK. I use a dip stick. Much easier to clean.

+1 on the comments to just use a handheld thermometer - which is needed only if you do immersion chilling. Not needed if you use a plate chiller or CFC.

As for the Mash Tun I just have a valve and a thermometer. I am currently working out the design to go to an automated direct fired set up (obviously I am not using a cooler). Coolers work great as well, but i just liked stainless pots over plastic - personal preference. I find the dial thermometers to be off a few degrees and the handheld digital thermometers to be fairly accurate. But take the time after the build to calibrate using boiling water and an ice bath.

Barnesie said:

Personally, after installing a sight glass on my boil kettle - i wouldn't do it again. Even with a heat shield, the wort can easily boil out of the glass and make a mess. It's just one more hole in your BK that may potentially leak and there's very limited utility in a sight glass on the BK. It's much simpler to just have a graduated stick of some kind.

Also, they can get REALLY filthy and you're going to need a brush to get in there after every session.

A bulkhead, side dip tube and valve would be my recommendation. Skip the sight glass and thermometer. A hand-held digital thermometer (like the CDN bobby sells) is going to be more accurate and versatile than an installed analogue thermometer.

If you have a bench vice and a crescent wrench, the 2-piece valves are actually easier to disassemble than the three piece versions and they're cheaper.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Doesn't seem like Bobby has a side pickup dip tube?

So if I go with the following I should be okay for my BK?

Side diptube + bulkhead: http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...duct&keyword=dip&category_id=0&product_id=157

3-piece valve: http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...ct&keyword=valve&category_id=0&product_id=128

Barnesie said:

Personally, after installing a sight glass on my boil kettle - i wouldn't do it again. Even with a heat shield, the wort can easily boil out of the glass and make a mess. It's just one more hole in your BK that may potentially leak and there's very limited utility in a sight glass on the BK. It's much simpler to just have a graduated stick of some kind.

Also, they can get REALLY filthy and you're going to need a brush to get in there after every session.

A bulkhead, side dip tube and valve would be my recommendation. Skip the sight glass and thermometer. A hand-held digital thermometer (like the CDN bobby sells) is going to be more accurate and versatile than an installed analogue thermometer.

If you have a bench vice and a crescent wrench, the 2-piece valves are actually easier to disassemble than the three piece versions and they're cheaper.

Click to expand...

I know each person has what their own ideas of what works for them but I love having my sight glasses, they don't leak and I KNOW how much is in there, I used a "graduated" stick and will never go back to that. Always remember that YOU do what works for YOU, Bobby makes a heat shield that stops your sight glass from boiling or you could make your own.


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Also, to confirm the MLT conversion and following this guide: http://brewing.lustreking.com/gear/mashtun.html

Would these work?

Braid: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerk...Steel-7223-20-38-2/203082353#customer_reviews

3/4" stainless steel washer: http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hill...teel-Split-Lock-Washer-8-Pack-43755/204775074

3/4" zinc washer: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...eel-Split-Lock-Washers-3-Pack-20291/202704583

1/2" x 1.5" brass nipple: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-...-Pipe-Nipple-LF-A836/202254957#specifications

1/2" ball valve: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerk...ll-Valve-111-1-12-12/203245592#specifications

Stainless hose clamp: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-1-2-1-1-4-in-Hose-Repair-Clamp-6712595/202309385


Sorry if I'm beating this like a dead horse - I'm putting the parts list together but for someone else. I won't be the one buying the stuff so I have to make sure everything is exact..

Transamguy77 said:

I know each person has what their own ideas of what works for them but I love having my sight glasses, they don't leak and I KNOW how much is in there, I used a "graduated" stick and will never go back to that. Always remember that YOU do what works for YOU, Bobby makes a heat shield that stops your sight glass from boiling or you could make your own.

Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Click to expand...

Note that I started off my statement with the word "personally" which is usually a qualifier indicating experience relative to the poster.

Personally, I don't find value with a sight glass on the brew kettle and that comes from actually having one. Heat shields are fine, but they are still reliant on the size of your heating source and kettle for effectiveness. No matter what, there will still be a combination of burner and pot that can cause enough heat wash to boil a sightglass regardless of how it's mitigated. The wider your pot, the better off you are, but keggles are not very wide relative to banjo burners - thus heat wash is an issue to consider. 12+ gallons of wort at a rolling boil in the cold can cause a sight glass to boil over even with a heat shield - doesn't mean it will, just that it can.

Every hole you drill into a pot is a possible source of leakage when you're using weldless fittings. That doesn't mean they will leak, just something to consider and weigh in planning. In my "personal" experience (sight glasses on 2 keggles) - sight glasses leak more than any other fitting.

They do tend to get very filthy with hop debris, trub and scum. Keeping them clean is something to consider when planning as well and having a dip tube brush on hand will be a requirement.

So for me personally - they're more trouble than they are worth on a brew kettle. There's obvious positives and negatives, but the fun part about a forum is that there is room for a lot of diverging personal experience and the reader can use their judgement to determine what may or may not have value to them.

By the way, bobby's diptubes are here:

http://brewhardware.com/valves-69

Note that the diptubes are reversable. You set up the tube one way and it pulls from the center, you set it up the other and it can pull from the side.

Barnesie said:

By the way, bobby's diptubes are here:

http://brewhardware.com/valves-69

Note that the diptubes are reversable. You set up the tube one way and it pulls from the center, you set it up the other and it can pull from the side.

Click to expand...

Is there something about this one that makes it almost $10 more than the one I posted earlier from Bargain Fittings?

nhindian said:

Is there something about this one that makes it almost $10 more than the one I posted earlier from Bargain Fittings?

Click to expand...

The 5/8" diptube Bobby sells for $36 includes a weldless bulkhead. The diptube alone runs $21 for 1/2" and $23 for 5/8".

Things I would buy or make are these:

Sam's Club : Ice Cube...15 gallons...$28

Fittings and thermometer for digital thermos on HLT and Mash tun/Ice Cube

Site Glass and Heat Shields from BrewHardware for HLT and Boil Kettle.

Hop Spider (either home built or from Stainless Brewing)

Dip Tube for both HLT and Boil Kettle

Camlock fittings for everything

BLICHMANN AUTO SPARGE (best $50 I've ever spent)

I made a cool "manifold" for the Ice Cube. It is the best bang for buck of any cooler.

Barnesie said:

By the way, bobby's diptubes are here:

http://brewhardware.com/valves-69

Note that the diptubes are reversable. You set up the tube one way and it pulls from the center, you set it up the other and it can pull from the side.

Click to expand...

It's probably a flaw in my site in that I don't show a picture of the tube installed both ways. I should probably just create a new item page called side pickup diptube because I'm sure 100 people went looking for it and just moved on to a competitor.

This was on an ad on HBT... $10 ball valves. Anyone try these?
http://jadedbrewing.com/products/stainless-steel-3-piece-1-2-ball-valve

BTW Bobby ever need a redo on your site design let me know, up for trades.

Ever since this became a business for me, good quality ball valves at good prices has been like chasing the dragon. I have a drawer full of them that look great in pictures and have the right price but were disappointing in one way or another. I've gotten samples from almost all the U.S. vendors and at least a dozen in China. The biggest problem I've seen is how darn hard you have to pull on the handle to operate it. I'm all for a bargain, just make sure you're not buying twice.

We definitely feel Bobby's pain on this one, it is very difficult to source quality parts and equipment at the best prices. As with all of our products, we are confident with our valve's quality. If you place an order and are unhappy in any way, send us an email letting us know and we will give you a full refund, including shipping costs.