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Old 01-14-2014, 12:27 AM   #21
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You must have been inside my head, your cubbies is basically what im doing.

He sort of did that with the left and right side if you look at his build, because he was just using 1/2" plywood he didnt do anything on the front.

But because i am having to hang 3/4" plywood for cabinet doors i am building an upside down U box out of 2x8 across the front to have more support to glue the front facade too. In addition to the two 2x8 smaller boxes on the left and right side. Instead of using the 3/4ths though i may just cover the cubby sides in 1/4" oak and drill like you mentioned. It will make cutting the inner hole a lot more straight forward just making one big hole rather than two smaller ones.

The front and left/right sides were built in such a way that i can fit the 7.5" 2x8's to build the cubby boxes and they should line up on the outside where the exterior will be put on.


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Old 01-14-2014, 12:53 AM   #22
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I wish i was closer! You can make doors that will be less weight than the 3/4", and look nicer too probably. Unless you're getting them made of solid 3/4" stock. That's different. You could use 3/4" stock again, the 1x2 would be ok, 1x3 probably better. Make what is called a half lap joint for the corners. Then cut a dado groove down the middle inside edges of the four pieces (think pickture frame) that would accept some of your 1/4" plywood. Would give you your door, at a significant weight savings, and look nice as well. You would have enough stock in the outside "frame" to put in some of those european hidden hinges, or use normal hinges if you wanted to.


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Old 01-14-2014, 01:03 AM   #23
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Oh, no i dont mean for the cabinet doors.

I mean the original used 1/2" plywood because he had no doors, but from what i can tell standard cabinet door hinges require 3/4th wood to be able to screw into. Is that wrong and i can get away with smaller wood on the exterior?

I was planning on doing overlay cabinet doors from a local cabinet shop to custom make them to whatever size i end up needing.

Or i suppose if I am building a cubby that i can attach the hinge to the side of the cubby..? Now that i look more closely at the various hinges it seems that would work if i lined the cubbies with 1x8's...hmmm dont know why i got it stuck in my head i needed 3/4" plywood on the outside to hinge off of..if i can get away with 1/2" or even 1/4" ply(maybe to thin and will bow?) Oak plywood on the outside instead of 3/4" i can cut the cost and weight by quite a bit i bet and end up with a better product..

As for weight, now im a bit more concerned after weighing these 2x8's i was going to use for the cubby framing.

Their each 27# each and im going to need three. That add's a lot of extra weight, im wondering if i can get by with just using 1x8's instead....

So far im not that worried, i weighted a 2x4x8 and it came out at a dead even 10#, knowing ive only bought 5-6 of them i should be fine so far.
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Old 01-14-2014, 04:49 AM   #24
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Well crap, turns out HD and Lowes nearby dont stock Oak in 1/2, they have 1/4 oak and 3/4 oak, and 1/2 birch......hmmmmm...
1/2" Oak on their online store only comes in 4x4 sheets too which isnt big enough for my front...I just dont know if 1/4" would be sturdy enough...but the 3/4ths seems like overkill and a lot of extra weight...

Do you think its worth the effort to go that route DFess? You seem to have the most experience, i can start searching the other lumber yards i am sure someone has to stock 1/2" oak plywood.
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:06 PM   #25
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you aren't gonig to find 1/2" oak ply unless you go to a lumber yard, and you're not going to like the price point either. If you build a sturdy enough frame for the outside (think wire frame in a solidworks file) the 1/4" should be fine.
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:28 PM   #26
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Hmm ok, i guess now that i think about it most of the exterior sheets are going to be cut out anyways for the cubby's, only the trim on the outside that is going to be nailed to the cubby's anyways will be there anyways which should prevent it from bowing. But i also i am not 100% sure on what you mean by constructing a wireframe..im familiar with the term, maybe not in how it relates in Solidworks though.

Originally i was looking at these types of hinges which is why i was thinking 3/4ths on the outside.


but then i realized after talking to you yesterday i can realistically do these
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:32 PM   #27
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yeah, those bottom ones should work no problem
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Old 01-16-2014, 09:51 PM   #28
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Day 8 - Bought my own Circular saw, tired of using the Skilsaw i used that no matter what i did never seemed to cut where i wanted or straight. New Makita is way better already. Cut the bottom panels and got them nailed on. Im a bit conflicted on the interior side panels being slightly short on the front. On one hand, they are going to be making the interior walls of the wine boxes, and will have a 1x8 on the outer side..realistically even if that 1x8 wasnt there and it was just a 1/2" gap, i dont think you could look in the tiny wine hole and actually see it up against the wall anyways.


Finally ill get around to building the cabinet structure today, the hope is that once the 1x8's are screwed in place it will be able to keep the remaining front bit that sticks out straighter and not bowed in the middle. You can see the front area that is unsupported bows slightly, its only about 1/8" so i have no real fears that once i build the 1x8 cabinet frame and nail the plywood sheet to the more straight 1x8 it will straighten out more.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:07 AM   #29
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Cut the cabinet wood for the left side, and realized that the left side is bowing out way too much. So much that it pulled the brads out in the middle...so rather than just slamming more nails into it i cut the last bit thats big enough of my plywood sheet and made a new left side thats way better. Then stained everything on the inside thats visible because from what i gathered doing research online if you glue before staining your more likely to get glue onto the surface around the joint and stain will no longer soak into that area, leaving a horrible mess. So i stained and will glue the left side on tommorrow. Tomorrow morning before work i'll put the first coat of the semi gloss poly on it so i can the 2nd coat on at lunch. Then hopefully by the time i get home its dry enough to work with. Sorry for the bad image my cameras flash decided to go super saiyan apparently.

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Old 01-17-2014, 12:44 PM   #30
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you have to tape off where you are going to glue though. You don't want stain getting onto the surface that is going to be glued up, as the glue won't set. The oil in the stain prevents the glue from grabbing hold.


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