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Old 01-04-2014, 12:03 PM   #1
eddiewould
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Mar 2013
Wellington, New Zealand
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Hey,

Will just using silicone sealant adequately "attach" a wooden keezer collar to a freezer? Or do you need to use liquid nails/screws?


Cheers,
Eddie

 
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Old 01-04-2014, 03:48 PM   #2
microbusbrewery
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I can tell you what worked for me for collars I put on a ferm chamber and a keezer. I used the Scotch Indoor /Outdoor Mounting tape then followed up by caulking the inside and outside seam with DAP® ALEX Ultra® 230 Premium Indoor/Outdoor Sealant with MICROBAN® Antimicrobial Product Protection. It worked well in both cases and never budged.
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Old 01-04-2014, 04:06 PM   #3
CadiBrewer
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Feb 2013
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I used ordinary silicon sealant for both my keezer and ferm chamber and both are still holding strong. It attaches the collar and seals the gaps in one step.

 
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:45 PM   #4
Jwood
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Sep 2011
San Diego, CA
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The GE data sheet for their silicone II says the tensile strength once cured is a little over 200 psi. I can guarantee your keezer collar will not fall off and will not come off without some serious effort (or at least a very sharp knife).

One thing to note however is that you may want to consider different types of silicone available. Some work better than others in the presence of continuous moisture and lower temperatures. You'll probably want to look for ones designed for kitchen and bath. Silicone for aquariums will probably be fine too, but it depends what you can find price wise.

 
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:47 AM   #5
chevs10drvr
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Feb 2009
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I've used "Great Stuff" twice now with fantastic results. Just apply a nice bead around the rim of the freezer box and set to collar down on top of it. It's best to allow the foam to cure and cut off the excess rather than attempt to wipe it up wet (the stuff is VERY sticky). Not only does it act as an insulator, but develops a surprisingly strong bond between collar and freezer. So strong I've been able to lift my unit by the collar with kegs inside. To boot, a few minutes with a utility knife and the collar can be removed. I've have to do that twice since owning my kegerator [first to move and then cuz my freezer died ]

 
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:51 AM   #6
RedF
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Nov 2013
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My lid is attached with screws into the plastic liner, and I don't trust it for much weight. I would trust silicone or glue more, because of the amount of surface area. Not that I've had issues thus far.

 
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:06 AM   #7
eddiewould
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Mar 2013
Wellington, New Zealand
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Well I've bought some kitchen/bathroom "wet area" silicone. It says "mould/spore resistant"

Will see how it goes. Ideally I'm after a level of bonding that if I bump it it's not going to fall off, but if I really want to get it off (yank it hard enough or use a knife) I still can.

Will report back. Still varnishing for now (damn drying times!)

 
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:15 AM   #8
DoWBrewer
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Aug 2013
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I built my collar to be about 4-inches below the keggerator. I used weather stripping but did not mount it. It works very well.

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Old 01-05-2014, 01:06 PM   #9
ChuckO
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I used a second set of lid hinges so that I can open the lid or raise the entire collar for easier loading of kegs.

 
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:00 PM   #10
RedF
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Nov 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckO View Post
I used a second set of lid hinges so that I can open the lid or raise the entire collar for easier loading of kegs.
I thought about doing this, and I may still in the future. Seems like the best of both worlds.

 
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