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Old 01-03-2014, 01:57 AM   #11
Bobby_M
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If only this dope didn't wait so long to reorder the solder-on flanges and didn't just run out.
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Old 04-10-2014, 04:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
If only this dope didn't wait so long to reorder the solder-on flanges and didn't just run out.
Resurrecting this thread as it appears to be the most relevent...

Two questions:

1) If you buy the weldless and decide to try soldering after the fact, can you convert over easily?

2) What is your recommendation for controlling the temp? Do you only use this as the boil element?

 
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Old 04-10-2014, 09:27 PM   #13
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For the weldless, you need a 1.25" hole. You CAN solder the flange over this but a small ring of the pot will be seen sticking into the 1-3/8" ID of the solder flange. It's not a big deal at all, just a 1/16" ring all the way around. You'd probably want to file a small V groove at the bottom of the hole just so water/wort doesn't pool in there.

For temp control, I always recommend a PID, SSR and heat sink in a project box. Be sure to use a GFCI outlet. Many people want to use a ready-made controller like the A419 or Ranco, but most are not rated for the current draw we need.
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Old 04-12-2014, 02:31 PM   #14
brewtime
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
For the weldless, you need a 1.25" hole. You CAN solder the flange over this but a small ring of the pot will be seen sticking into the 1-3/8" ID of the solder flange. It's not a big deal at all, just a 1/16" ring all the way around. You'd probably want to file a small V groove at the bottom of the hole just so water/wort doesn't pool in there.

For temp control, I always recommend a PID, SSR and heat sink in a project box. Be sure to use a GFCI outlet. Many people want to use a ready-made controller like the A419 or Ranco, but most are not rated for the current draw we need.

Are you out of the flanges I can't locate them on your site only the whole kit.



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Old 04-12-2014, 11:55 PM   #15
Bobby_M
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There's a new page with all individually available triclover parts:
http://brewhardware.com/fittings-75/...riclover-parts
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:41 PM   #16
Lumpyyyyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
For the weldless, you need a 1.25" hole. You CAN solder the flange over this but a small ring of the pot will be seen sticking into the 1-3/8" ID of the solder flange. It's not a big deal at all, just a 1/16" ring all the way around. You'd probably want to file a small V groove at the bottom of the hole just so water/wort doesn't pool in there.

For temp control, I always recommend a PID, SSR and heat sink in a project box. Be sure to use a GFCI outlet. Many people want to use a ready-made controller like the A419 or Ranco, but most are not rated for the current draw we need.

Couldn't I just increase my hole from 1.25" to 1-3/8" if I switched from weldless to welded?

 
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:26 PM   #17
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Sure.
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Old 04-23-2014, 03:49 PM   #18
SudsyPaul
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I just ordered 2 weldless ones, so we'll know in a couple weeks how it fits and how it works with my 5500w elements Eff this propane nonsense.

 
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Old 05-05-2014, 05:35 PM   #19
TheCanisDirus
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Is the ETA of 5/21 for the weldless enclosures pretty accurate?

 
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Old 05-05-2014, 05:57 PM   #20
Jawbox0
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I'm very happy with my weldless enclosures. I've got two in my pot. Well made, no leaks on the first run, they look great, and were a great value. I don't think I could have gotten the ports welded in for the same price.

They'll be very easy to remove if I need to for some cleaning.

 
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