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Old 12-09-2013, 09:31 PM   #21
Skep18
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Thanks everyone for the great input. I will be sure to post up my perceived review of the beer when it does finally get kegged. I think I'll get an ounce or two of Cascade and dry hop with that. From the post above, seems like I should ahve done more 0min additions if not hop standing. Thanks!



 
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Old 12-09-2013, 11:10 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skep18 View Post
1.0 oz Chinook @ 60min
1.0 oz Chinook @ 40min
0.5 oz Cascade @ 40min
1.0 oz Cascade @ 10min
1.0 oz Chinook @ 5min
1.0 oz Cascade @ 5min
0.5 oz Cascade @ 0min
<snip>

Should I go back and buy some Cascade for dry hopping? Any clue on what to expect from this beer? Does the boil schedule above sound like something disgusting? lol. I know you can't know, but just some thoughts would be appreciated. Beginning to think I just threw away my (admittedly small) investment on this brew.
that hopping schedule, IMO, is fine - but i would have skipped the 40 minute additions. at 40 minutes you're boiling away almost all of the aroma and flavor, and you're not getting 100% of the bitterness... worse of both worlds. i would have moved some of those hops to 60 mins, and the rest to 0.

definitely get some more cascade for dry-hopping. at least 2 oz.


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What hops should I grow? Looking for cheap honey?
- Drinking: Mandarina IPA, Citra "rescued Belgian DIPA", 2 blends of a rye sour: ECY20 + ECY34, local sour cherry kriek #2
- Aging: brett'ed Belgian blond on raspberries, sour blond on second-use cherries, English Barleywine (half on brett), 3726 saison w/ brett x2 (dregs mix & Lochristi), GNO 3724 saison w/ brett mix, sour cherry mead, acerglyn, and a few other sours...

 
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Old 12-10-2013, 02:02 PM   #23
Skep18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetcell View Post
that hopping schedule, IMO, is fine - but i would have skipped the 40 minute additions. at 40 minutes you're boiling away almost all of the aroma and flavor, and you're not getting 100% of the bitterness... worse of both worlds. i would have moved some of those hops to 60 mins, and the rest to 0.

definitely get some more cascade for dry-hopping. at least 2 oz.
Thanks for the boil advice. Never thought of it that way. I suppose that's why 40min never shows up on recipes, lol.

 
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Old 12-10-2013, 02:29 PM   #24
worthogg
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You don't need to let you beer sit in primary for a month. At the right temps, and with proper pitching rates, fermentation will be done in a week, two at the most. The sooner you keg those IPAs the less aroma you will lose.

 
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Old 12-10-2013, 04:58 PM   #25
Skep18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worthogg View Post
You don't need to let you beer sit in primary for a month. At the right temps, and with proper pitching rates, fermentation will be done in a week, two at the most. The sooner you keg those IPAs the less aroma you will lose.
So no benefit letting it sit on the yeast cake? No reprocessing of those harsh alcohols/compounds? Just asking, but I know this is a controversial subject.

 
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Old 12-10-2013, 10:47 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skep18 View Post
So no benefit letting it sit on the yeast cake? No reprocessing of those harsh alcohols/compounds? Just asking, but I know this is a controversial subject.
yes, there is benefit - but that benefit doesn't require a month.

if you ferment correctly (healthy yeast, temp control, nutrients, aeration, etc etc etc) then you won't create as many compounds that need to be cleaned up. hence, once FG is reached you need maybe 3 days of clean-up time. on most average gravity beers that's somewhere around 5-10 days, so 2 weeks allows plenty of time for clean-up. certainly no harm in waiting longer, but if you're in a rush...

however, "ferment correctly" isn't always the case. fermentation can take longer than 10 days, and more crap that needs to be cleaned is generated - requiring a longer post-FG period. that's why the common advice is three weeks in primary. without knowing a person's process, you're better off erring on the long side and making sure that the beer has had every chance to finish up.

most brewers who ask "how long should i wait" tend to not have their processes nailed down, and hence could benefit a longer primary. and often by the time they've got good fermentation practices down, they typically don't need to ask anymore.
__________________
What hops should I grow? Looking for cheap honey?
- Drinking: Mandarina IPA, Citra "rescued Belgian DIPA", 2 blends of a rye sour: ECY20 + ECY34, local sour cherry kriek #2
- Aging: brett'ed Belgian blond on raspberries, sour blond on second-use cherries, English Barleywine (half on brett), 3726 saison w/ brett x2 (dregs mix & Lochristi), GNO 3724 saison w/ brett mix, sour cherry mead, acerglyn, and a few other sours...

 
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:32 AM   #27
IL1kebeer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetcell
yes, there is benefit - but that benefit doesn't require a month. if you ferment correctly (healthy yeast, temp control, nutrients, aeration, etc etc etc) then you won't create as many compounds that need to be cleaned up. hence, once FG is reached you need maybe 3 days of clean-up time. on most average gravity beers that's somewhere around 5-10 days, so 2 weeks allows plenty of time for clean-up. certainly no harm in waiting longer, but if you're in a rush... however, "ferment correctly" isn't always the case. fermentation can take longer than 10 days, and more crap that needs to be cleaned is generated - requiring a longer post-FG period. that's why the common advice is three weeks in primary. without knowing a person's process, you're better off erring on the long side and making sure that the beer has had every chance to finish up. most brewers who ask "how long should i wait" tend to not have their processes nailed down, and hence could benefit a longer primary. and often by the time they've got good fermentation practices down, they typically don't need to ask anymore.
+1 on all of your points

 
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:20 PM   #28
Skep18
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Doing this recipe again as the last one turned out pretty good after a week or 2 in the keg. This time, I'm using 4oz of Cascade and 4oz of Chinook.

Might anyone want to advise on a boil schedule for this one? Think I'm going to listen to the guy above and stick to early and late additions.

Thanks.

 
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:49 PM   #29
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1 oz at 60 (or however much you need to get your desired IBUs, use chinook since it's going to be higher AA%)
1 oz at 10
2 oz at 5
2 oz at flame-out
2 oz dry-hop

you could also do a hop stand:
1 oz at 60 (or however much you need to get your desired IBUs, use chinook since it's going to be higher AA%)
1 oz at 5
2 oz at flame-out, let sit for 10 minutes
2 oz at 175-180*F (chill down to 175-180*F, add hops, stir quickly, cover, let rest for 20 mins, then resume chilling)
2 oz dry-hop

if you have any additional hops, increase the dry-hop to 3 or 4 oz.
__________________
What hops should I grow? Looking for cheap honey?
- Drinking: Mandarina IPA, Citra "rescued Belgian DIPA", 2 blends of a rye sour: ECY20 + ECY34, local sour cherry kriek #2
- Aging: brett'ed Belgian blond on raspberries, sour blond on second-use cherries, English Barleywine (half on brett), 3726 saison w/ brett x2 (dregs mix & Lochristi), GNO 3724 saison w/ brett mix, sour cherry mead, acerglyn, and a few other sours...

 
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Old 03-25-2014, 12:31 AM   #30
dantose
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ_IPA View Post
Cascade, Centennial, Amarillo all go well with Chinook.
cascade would be my first pick out of those.



 
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