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Old 12-02-2013, 01:23 PM   #1
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Default eBIAB with PWM wiring

Hey guys,

Getting closer and closer to actually building this thing. Most of the components are sitting in a big pile. Pulled some new wiring in the garage and added another 240v outlet. Sold my hottub and ended up with a spa panel that had no purpose. . .handy!

So, my question is. . . I plan to build this in stages. For now I just want to run with the PWM and add a PID later. I like the simplicity of manual control with PWM but I like being able to set temps with the PID.

So, for stage 1, I'd like to have a switch set up for either full power to the element or run through the PWM (as I understand the PWM doesn't do 100% duty cycle)

I'm using bits and pieces of PJs wiring diagram below. There will be no PID for now so whats the easiest way to have a 100% power and PWM switch?

I'm a fairly competent electrical guy but I just want some opinion before I push on.

(I know all this is overkill for a single vessel eBIAB set-up, but I just like tinkering. . .)



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Old 12-02-2013, 01:59 PM   #2
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Honestly I would just go with the PID and skip the fuss.


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Old 12-02-2013, 02:02 PM   #3
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cool. . . next time I'll start a thread called, "Do you think I should do this or not" Then your response would be relavant to my question.
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:05 PM   #4
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The problem is you are going to spend $25 on the PWM controller and you won't have stable mash temps at all.
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:12 PM   #5
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Wow, just read my response and it was a total dick response. Hard to communicate sarcasm online. . .dang. Apologies!

As far as the PWM goes, I like the easy adjustment of the boil and won't set up to recirculate during the mash until I get my PID and pump set up.

For now, I just heat to mash temp and then leave it alone. I brew indoors and I lose so little in temp I'm not all that worried. I honestly am planning to recirc just cause its cool and adds some bling. . .
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:18 PM   #6
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So you would need a 12v DC power supply. Since the PID supplies that to the SSR and with a pwm controller you need 12v DC to power it and control the SSR. So really all you need to do to have a full power switch is run a circuit directly to the SSR from the PSU with a switch in between.
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:29 AM   #7
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I did the pwm route as a stage, I can give the wiring diagram, but honestly I'd go with the PID and just use the manual control instead.
I used a controller from balkatronics so $8 + $7.50 shipping + $2.50 for a knob + $1 or so for the capacitor + an hour to assemble all of which is non transferable to the upgraded system. Extra $20 for just the PID and you'll be halfway towards your final goal. Make the temp probe and it's mounting your upgrade instead.
Also just to clarify, the pwm takes 5 vdc to 12vdc so finding that is easy. And my mash temps are stable. Using recirculating eBIAB and reading the temps with a thermometer in the mash.
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:43 AM   #8
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Already have the pwm board and stuff. I'll take your wiring diagram! I'm pretty much ready start wiring.
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:06 PM   #9
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I just started a thread and posted a more simplified wiring diagram. It's based off the same image you posted.
Mine is for a PID but it might help you as a starting point.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/bia...-build-445992/
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:26 PM   #10
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Figured I'd throw out a quick update. My panel probably won't end up like this but I've been cutting up a bunch of PJ drawings to make what I want to end up with. It's way over the top for BIAB, but I like to tinker and I like flashing lights. So, here it is so far. There will be more lights added. . .

This is my long term plan. I'm currently building a simple PWM controller so I can get brewing. Hey, maybe I'll like it enough that I never get this far, but I doubt it. . .



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