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Old 11-22-2013, 09:32 PM   #1
Maegnar
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Nov 2011
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Hello,

I'm not quite new to the topic of brewing, but this has bugged me since I have started.
I'm boiling my beers on a induction stove-top in my 28 L pot. But I have never been able to get the beer to start rolling boil. I get to ~95C and that's it. I think that my stove-top isn't just powerful enough to get 28 L of liquid to 100C. And my question is - is that a bad thing? Am I potentially loosing on some process, or efficiency here? (i.e hop AA extraction is lower)

Thanks

 
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Old 11-22-2013, 09:36 PM   #2
Queequeg
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Not reaching a boil could mean no hot break.

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Old 11-22-2013, 09:38 PM   #3
poptarts
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and dms all up in yo beer, or so people say.

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Old 11-22-2013, 09:56 PM   #4
flars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maegnar View Post
Hello,

I'm not quite new to the topic of brewing, but this has bugged me since I have started.
I'm boiling my beers on a induction stove-top in my 28 L pot. But I have never been able to get the beer to start rolling boil. I get to ~95C and that's it. I think that my stove-top isn't just powerful enough to get 28 L of liquid to 100C. And my question is - is that a bad thing? Am I potentially loosing on some process, or efficiency here? (i.e hop AA extraction is lower)

Thanks
Do you have the lid on the kettle when you start the boil? Have you tried your recipes with a partial boil and then top off the fermentor with chilled water?
Does your boil kettle have a flat bottom?

 
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:04 PM   #5
Maegnar
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Nov 2011
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I have a lid and it helps only barely
I have not tried to do a partial boil. Doesn't that require to have a higher OG of the wort, to then have an option to water it down? I'm not sure how to get higher OG with less water, except from boiling out the water
My boil kettle does not have a flat bottom. the outside "ring" of the bottom actually touches the cook-top, and the middle of the bottom does not.

 
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:12 PM   #6
BryceL
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Feb 2011
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To answer your question, yes a good boil is important for several reasons. Hop extraction and boiling of compounds such as dms to name a couple. You could look into building a heat stick. Do a search and you should find some threads on it.

 
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:19 PM   #7
flars
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A partial boil, lets say one-half the volume of your recipe, will have a higher OG in the boil kettle. The OG in your fermentor after topping off with chilled water should be fairly close to your recipe OG as if it were a full boil.

I would also recommend finding a flat bottom kettle which will increase your heat transfer efficiency. Mine is a 5.5 gallon stainless steel stock pot with an encapsulated aluminum disk in the bottom from Walmart. Also doubles for our boiled corned beef and cabbbage on St. Patricks day.

 
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:26 PM   #8
fearwig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poptarts View Post
and dme all up in yo beer, or so people say.
Maybe even LME!

DMS is going to boil off whether you hit exactly the boiling temp of water or not, and it sounds like you're close. You can adjust for hop utilization (to taste) and you can adjust for boil-off volume. It could make following recipes slightly harder, but if you are happy with the result, who can complain?

Don't use a lid, though, or DMS may condense back into your wort, and then what's the point?

Since you're on induction you can use heat resistant insulation, if you don't already. Some people swear by it.
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:42 PM   #9
Epimetheus
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The absolute necessity of a strong rolling boil is up for debate.
The wort needs to be circulated for the proteins to collide, join, become larger, and fall to the bottom.
DMS is removed as a vapor, therefore, the wort must exceed the vapor point of DMS.

In How to Brew, john Palmer states:
"If the wort is cooled slowly these compounds will not be removed from the wort and will dissolve back in. Thus it is important to not completely cover the brewpot during the boil or allow condensate to drip back into the pot from the lid. The wort should also be cooled quickly after the boil, either by immersing in an ice bath or using a wort chiller."

He says not to cover the brew pot entirely. I have made DMS-free (no detectable DMS) brews on the stovetop by boiling with the pot mostly covered. Just like you, my kettle would not boil at all if the lid was off entirely.

Opposing the view of cooling quickly, there is the no-chill method wher 212F wort at the end of the boil is transferred to a sealed water bag, and allowed to cool over a day or three. This was championed in Australia and results in beer where the DMS is undetectable.

The is a new automatic brewing machine for small batches, about $1500. The temperature never quite reaches 212F and it depends on circulating the wort to encourage DMS to evaporate and the proteins to coagulate.

Any statement that beer MUST be brewed THEIR way should be considered opinion, not fact.
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:33 PM   #10
Denny's Evil Concoctions
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Its also important for alpha acid isomorisation and boil off.

Rolling boil mixes the hops around more. Isomorisation occurs above 82C but if I remember correctly utilization is effected by increased heat as well as longer boil time.

If you cant get the temp high enogh, then boil longer. You are probably going to have to do that anyway for proper boil off.

Also. DMS can be reduced by clean copper in the boil or fermentor.
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