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View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 101 11.91%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 21 2.48%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 4 0.47%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 635 74.88%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 87 10.26%
Voters: 848. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 09-19-2011, 07:15 PM   #921
WortMonger
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That will work to release pressure at 25psi. You will not be able to hold pressures lower or higher than that with that valve. This product would be better for controlling pressures and would work in more applications such as counter-pressure transfers, #99045K11. This is what I use right now, but would like to go to the last one I showed you.
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:29 PM   #922
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Thanks for the reply, I think I ordered this not noticing the bottom limitation. However they lied, as I am holding an even pressure at 10 psi, and have been for the last 14 hours, anyway. The thing happily works outside of the rating given on the site, and it is cheap too!.
I am really trying to get a grip on what to do when it comes time to go to the secondary. I seen somewhere where you were sorry you cut your center tube and I don't get how to get the beer out with leaving most of the trub in the Sankey. I think I am missing something somewhere, or is that the reason for the fancy filtering you talked about? I was thinking that the filtering came after the secondary?

 
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:35 PM   #923
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FYI I just found that Dgonza9 used a relief valve similar to the one I got and just a little more money. I think his (part # 48935K25) is most probably a better choice than the one I got, at least the specs are better!

Adding to my comment I see that Dgonza9''s will only go up to 20 psi., where mine will go to 50 with just the one yellow spring.


 
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:37 PM   #924
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Yes, I cut my diptube and wish I hadn't. You can use your testing spigot to pour out a pint or two of the heaviest trub/sediment prior to connecting up your transferring setup, provided the keg doesn't get moved around. Then, if you start your transfer slowly and move to a higher psi for transfer you should be almost sediment free in your transfer. Make sure your psi is just a bit lower in your target keg before you start the counter-pressure transfer, or you could suck up more junk negating the pre-transfer pouring.
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:45 PM   #925
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Kirbuno, I would bet you are venting the CO2 made at that level right now. Once the ferment really kicks off I bet you will shoot up to 25+ psi, or it will vent and you will stay at 25psi. If I'm wrong I would like to know, but only time will tell. Please keep me informed if I am right about the valve.

My first spunding valve was made with the valve you just mentioned (#48935K25). The problem with that one is it only goes up to 20 psi. I recommend 0-60psi so all your bases are covered and the valve is truly for universal use in your brewhouse. That is just my recommendation based on how I use mine mind you. I had to lower my temperature to use that one as I needed it used. Now, I only have to look at the temperature I am at and set my valve at the recommended pressure at that temperature, which is way more flexible a setup than before.
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:26 PM   #926
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WortMonger, I understand what you are saying, but I don't think that is the case. I was away when the fermentation finally started getting some pressure built up, and since I didn't know where to set my valve the pressure was at 15psi when I noticed it. I was able to back that off to 12 psi, then to 10 where I was intending to keep it. It still feels like I could back it off further but wanted to keep it at 10 psi. When this first batch is complete I will know for sure how this works.

BTW the valve is letting out a constant flow of CO2 so it would definity climb if I closed it further.

Thanks for the tip on transferring to the corny keg. By testing spigot, I assume you mean my party spigot hooked to the liquid side of the Sankey tap? I think all that is left for me is the waiting.

 
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:31 PM   #927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirbuno
By testing spigot, I assume you mean my party spigot hooked to the liquid side of the Sankey tap? I think all that is left for me is the waiting.
Yep, just pour off a pint or two with your fermenting setup once finished, then hook up your transferring setup and fire away. Waiting is the hardest part isn't it? LOL
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:39 PM   #928
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Will a corney accept a dip tube on the gas in side? What do you guys think about attaching a stainless carb stone on the in line while pushing to transfer. Would you gain much carbonation during the transfer?
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:24 AM   #929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WortMonger View Post
Ok, changes made and hopefully everyone will be happy now!

Wiki has a new link!

First post in this thread has a new link!

Ok, now get to brewing/experimenting/sharing with this technique so we can really run up the post count, lol. Thanks again guys!
OMG! Thanks for liking my summary Wort! Your a hero.
Party on Wayne.

 
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Old 09-20-2011, 01:06 AM   #930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirbuno View Post
SankeyPankey mentioned in post #914:
"I have a bottom dump, so pretend I have a conical re: harvesting yeast. I harvest after racking and after gradually depressurizing the two fermenters back to atmospheric pressure."

Now I'm really confused!? how do you rack then harvest the yeast? Do you have a photo or diagram of what you did? I looked but can't find anything yet, if you have post #s that would be great!
Thanks to all for a great thread!
My 3 gal corny is also my starter vessel. I push it into the primary, then put a gas dip tube in so there's no liquid dip tube. It stays that way thru primary and I put my spunding valve on the corny. After crashing, I'll rack by pushing CO2 from the corny into the sanke. I'll have cleared my dip tube from any gunk from having taken gravity samples with my cobra tap. After racking I (gently, with the spunding valve) depressurize the ganged duo and then take the hose and clamp it to the bottom dump and dump the whole cake into the corny and have my way with it after that.

Those fittings you see that aren't corny posts are corny posts welded to tri-clamp caps- to give me threadless in and out and marry to my other stuff (filter, counterpressure devices, tubing, etc on tri-clamps).

This pic is cold crashing before racking to secondary (I missed my opportunity to dry hop before the end of primary).
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