I'm still very new to this technique and mine is more of a fermenting in a sanke way of doing things and then transferring using gas than anything else. I don't have the ability to crash cool right now. Hence the difference.
What I do is clean and sanitize my keg (pretty much like wortmonger, spray thoroughly and dump a few times. Fill with warm water and oxyclean free. Let than sit and than push it out thru the beer out of the keg with co2. I then fill with starsan and water at proper dilution. I then pump out thru the beer out tube on keg coupler, sanitizing it. I have a quick connect on the beer out tube so I can hook it to my inline O2 to fill with cooled, oxygenated wort when I'm ready and the lines have been sanitized.
Once my boil is done, I pump the hot wort thru my CFC to my inline oxygenation tube and then into the fermenting keg thru the beer out line of the coupler (just remove the little backflow ball first!! I learned that the hard way, lol!). ***a quick aside here. I don't think the inline O2 is especially advantageous, but recirculating to my boil kettle wasn't working well for me. Though my wort exits CFC at 65 or lower, I found the keggle was still so hot that cooling took way too long IMO. Maybe I could try wetting the outside of the keggle. Anyway, it's much cheaper to just oxygenate in the BK after recirculating than using the inline O2. Just my opinion.****
Once my wort is cooled, oxygenated and transferred to fermenting keg I generally remove the coupler and the spear and pitch my starter or re hydrated yeast. I spray the coupler and spear with starsan one more time, then replace the assembly and add my spunding valve. I set the spunding valve to about 3 psi and leave it. Once the yeast takes off you can smell beer. I leave it at about 5 psi for a few days, then turn it up to about 7-10 for the rest of fermentation.
I forgot to mention, I quick connect a cobra tap to the beer out line on the spunding valve once I have everything transferred. This way I can easily take samples for hydrometer readings.
Fermentation is usually complete in less than a week, but I'll let it sit at 7psi or so for 2-3 weeks so the yeast can flocculate out. I trimmed my dip tube about 3/4" and I still get a pint or two of slurry and cold break when I pull samples, but after that it's pretty clear. I'd recommend trimming the dip tube as yeast can clog up the the dip tube, IMO.
I don't generally counter transfer these days, as I'm still acquiring the proper parts. I usually just clean and sanitize the serving keg and transfer at around 5 psi thru the beer out port on the corny. Sometimes I take the lid off to check how full it is. Other times I seal it up and put a gas valve on the gas port to relieve pressure. I fill my kegs, re sanitize the lid and then put it on gas in my kegerator for force carbing.
So far, so good! 30 gallons of tasty beer so far.
For dry hopping I have gone to using tea balls filled with pellet hops in my serving keg. I just drop them in, no weights and so far the results are fine, although I have little for comparison at this point as I'm always making new beers.
I love fermenting in the sanke. Mine is not really closed system yet, but as I get everything together I will head in that direction.
Here's my valve
I have a quick connect for the co2 tank on the right so I can push beer, cleaner, sanitizer, etc. as needed. I'm not lifting a full sanke.
Here's the rest of my system.
Thanks again for all the interesting reading as I move towards fully closed pressurized fermentation. Been combing Craigslist for nice refrigerator or chest freezer.