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View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 101 11.91%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 21 2.48%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 4 0.47%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 635 74.88%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 87 10.26%
Voters: 848. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 02-13-2013, 04:38 AM   #1671
Islandboy85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photopilot View Post

I thought you were using a weighted lid just to keep it simple. If you are going to all this trouble, I think the adjustable pressure relief valve is only another few bucks.
Weighted lid was to stop the issue people have stated about corroded parts. You don't have to have a triclover tee. You could add a gauge to the cap if you have a tap and die set.

 
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:55 PM   #1672
WortMonger
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I thought about weights like on a pressure cooker before. Don't think it would work well unless temperatures and pressure levels were constant, which they aren't in most of our processes. I just need a 100% stainless version of any one of the products any of us are currently using. Don't know why one isn't out there. Then again at under 60psi nylon or similar would work fine and not corrode or stick. Brass with steel and springs of different metals aren't cutting it for me. Even with the reservoir the sticky mist is a problem. We need a machinist to look into a cheap working product.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:32 PM   #1673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WortMonger View Post
I am unhappy with all the ones I have bought. I need one that is 100% nylon or polysulphone that has a stainless spring and stainless ball. Mine have all corroded in some form or another. There has to be a cheaper better one out there.
I thought that this McMaster-Carr part # 99045K11 was the top-of-the-line (as noted on this thread). The body is polysulfone and seal is silicone.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/490/=lgp47a

I thought that everyone using the water filter housings had no problems with their spunding valves.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:45 PM   #1674
StMarcos
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This is my yeast catcher. Fits between a pint and quart. Last ferment (7psi duration I think) I closed the valve after two weeks and removed the catcher, capped it, and put in fridge. Two weeks later, I attempted an 8L starter. It didn't go at all. On pitching out of the catcher, the yeast seemed darker than it should, and smelled autolyzed. I think the pressure drop from undoing the catcher popped the cells. Current ferment I'm going 3psi. Hope this is enough to keep the krausen down.

On the bright side, the last ferment cleared up in the keg MUCH faster than when I wasn't using the catcher.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:46 PM   #1675
WortMonger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MadScientist

I thought that this McMaster-Carr part # 99045K11 was the top-of-the-line (as noted on this thread). The body is polysulfone and seal is silicone.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/490/=lgp47a

I thought that everyone using the water filter housings had no problems with their spunding valves.
That is the only valve I have not tried yet. If the spring is stainless then it will be exactly what I need, but I have literally worn out the other ones I own. The housing helps keep gunk out or the spunding valve but does nothing about the sticky gas coming out. The sticky gas means soaking to clean and the soaking to clean means the same problems I have run into with previous valves if not of same metals in the solution. A 100% product that could be autoclaved is what I am after in a perfect world. The product you linked to is the best so far, I just feel it too will fail my test for what I desire. I'm trying to get us the best working ideas to steer us to a perfected technique with the best tools, even if they don't exist... yet! I really won't be 100% happy until they make a digital version for complete control, that could possibly fluctuate with temperature. Dreams I know, but someone has the know-how out there.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:55 PM   #1676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StMarcos
This is my yeast catcher. Fits between a pint and quart. Last ferment (7psi duration I think) I closed the valve after two weeks and removed the catcher, capped it, and put in fridge. Two weeks later, I attempted an 8L starter. It didn't go at all. On pitching out of the catcher, the yeast seemed darker than it should, and smelled autolyzed. I think the pressure drop from undoing the catcher popped the cells. Current ferment I'm going 3psi. Hope this is enough to keep the krausen down.

On the bright side, the last ferment cleared up in the keg MUCH faster than when I wasn't using the catcher.
Interesting information. Thank you for contributing this. You could be correct, but I would like to see an experiment with washed yeast from that collector before I chalk it up to autolyzed yeast. It very well could be though that the collector focuses extra pressure hence stress in the yeast due to such a tight location and higher pressure from the technique. I'm curious as to trub flavoring as well. A slow release of pressure is ideal, but I'm not sure how you can do this with your setup. What you have is what I wanted for my own setup though so I am super curious. Hope a washed yeast experiment is in the future to hopefully put this wondering to bed.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:39 PM   #1677
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Could it be that the catcher only caught trub and no/little yeast? I wonder if you were to do a trub dump and then capture another quart if you would have different results.

I find it hard to believe the pressure in the catcher is much higher than the rest of the system. Quick loss of pressure is interesting but doesnt seem to jive with some other stories of people reusing their yeast after a pressure ferment.

 
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:19 PM   #1678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WortMonger View Post
The housing helps keep gunk out or the spunding valve but does nothing about the sticky gas coming out.
I did not realize the gas coming out was 'sticky', it makes sense though being in a moist environment. What can we put in-between the trap and the spunding valve as a 'drier'? Would a desiccant work?

I brewed Saturday, it was my first 10 gallon batch. I made a simple 'T' gas line to connect 2 corny fermenting kegs to my 'ganged' keg my spunding valve is on. It's working good, but then how do you really know? Both kegs has about the same volume, aeration, gravity, and 1 dry yeast pack. I'll find out later.


2/14/2013 by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr


2/16/2013 by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:19 PM   #1679
Islandboy85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WortMonger
I thought about weights like on a pressure cooker before. Don't think it would work well unless temperatures and pressure levels were constant, which they aren't in most of our processes. I just need a 100% stainless version of any one of the products any of us are currently using. Don't know why one isn't out there. Then again at under 60psi nylon or similar would work fine and not corrode or stick. Brass with steel and springs of different metals aren't cutting it for me. Even with the reservoir the sticky mist is a problem. We need a machinist to look into a cheap working product.
True, I forgot about the temp vs pressure change. Well crap.

 
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:01 PM   #1680
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I have an APA fermenting now, it started with a 1.058 OG and using US-05 yeast.

Tonight will be 4 complete days and when I measure the gravity tonight I expect to start a diacetyl rest. I'm currently at 65F @ 7 psi.

I'm wanting to crank up both the temperature and pressure like some of you do (WortMonger is one). I want to go to 70F for the d-rest. Would 30 psi be pushing the envelope, if it will get that high?

I'm looking at this chart;
http://beerismypassion.files.wordpre.../co2-chart.jpg
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