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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > General Techniques > Closed-system pressurized fermentation technique!
View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 91 11.38%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 21 2.63%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 4 0.50%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 601 75.13%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 83 10.38%
Voters: 800. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 12-22-2011, 12:12 AM   #1161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lennie

Sounds like a darned nice setup. Do you think it produces superior beer? What advantages do you see in pressurized fermentation? How many batches have you made?

I love fermcap, but didn't use it since I'm not pushing volume limits. Yet.
I love my setup. I would say that I haven't had a batch I wasn't happy with yet. Maybe 6 or 7 bactches so far. I love the fact that I cs have grain to glass beer in like 2 weeks!

One of the reasons I love it is because I do 10 gal no chill. So boiling wort goes straight in the cornies, rack the last gallon into a Growler, cool it all (growler goes in thr fridge or cold water bath if I want to get a starter going quickly). Then pitch yeast and hook up spunding valve in the next day or two. I let it ferment at about 5 psi for about 4 days, then check gravity. If I'm close to fg I will simply disconnect the spunding valve.

Its awesome and I will never ferment beer any other way. One thing i hate is cleaning the kegs, but hot oxyclean works well!


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Old 12-22-2011, 01:11 AM   #1162
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That is about as simple of a setup as I can think of. I'm still going to the trouble of chilling, although its usually just putting the kettle in the sink and filling three or four times, letting the heat transfer then draining and repeating. Only use maybe 10gal of water total. On my 7gal big kettle I use a galvanized washtub on the deck, this time of year I only have to use two changes of water and the wort is cooled nicely. I'd use my IC but its too cold to use the hose and I hate having to attach the hose attachment to the kichen sink. I don't think no-chill has any down sides though, other than more trub in the yeast cake. Do you serve from those kegs?


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Old 12-22-2011, 02:29 AM   #1163
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I'd use my IC but its too cold to use the hose and I hate having to attach the hose attachment to the kichen sink. I don't think no-chill has any down sides though, other than more trub in the yeast cake. Do you serve from those kegs?
use a pond pump and recirculate the water through the IC. I use a cooler with water and ice and it drops the temp REAL fast
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Old 12-22-2011, 12:55 PM   #1164
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use a pond pump and recirculate the water through the IC. I use a cooler with water and ice and it drops the temp REAL fast
I just got a pump so I have this as an option, I don't think using ice is cost effective until you get the temp down to 100F or lower.
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Old 12-22-2011, 03:03 PM   #1165
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1: I got my parts from Mc Master:

1 48935K25 1 Each Vacuum/pressure Adjustable Brass Relief Valve, 1/4 Npt Male, 0-20 Psi
2 4089K23 1 Each Multipurpose Gauge, Plastic Case, 2" Dial, 1/4 Npt Ctr Back, 0-60 Psi
3 4429K223 1 Each Low-pressure Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting, 1/4 X 1/8 X 1/4 Pipe Size, Inline Reducing Tee
4 50675K161 1 Each Brass 37 Degree Flared Tube Fitting, Adapter For 1/4" Tube Od X 1/8" Npt Male Pipe

2: I use fermcap (10 drops per corny), and also only fill to about 4.5 gallons (I generally pull about 1/2 to a full gallon of wort off to use as starters, then decant and pitch the yeast). I also have rigged up a blowoff container inline from the gas QDs, its a water filter that has barb connections on either side. When I do get blowoff (about 50% of the time), it simply collects in the water filter and doesnt gunk up the spunding valve. The valve is obviously on the 'out' port of the water filter.
This is fantastic - I owe you a beer!

So is there a barbed fitting that will mate to the setup or do you have this threaded straight to your filter housing? I like the way you have yours setup and I'd like to go this route.

A picture of this would probably be worth a thousand words if it wouldn't be too much trouble.


Thanks, everybody for all the helpful replies. I can't wait to do my first pressurized fermentation. I'm going to have to read up on washing yeast now; it seems like the two go hand in hand.

Cheers,
~j
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:06 PM   #1166
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I'm sure you can find a barbed fitting that will let you attach the spunding valve to the hose on the outlet side. I saw them when I was putting my setup together at Lowes. I stood there at Lowes for 45min trying things until I got the right stuff.
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:06 PM   #1167
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Lennie: I haven’t served from the kegs yet. But I am willing to try at some point, it might even be this hefe that is carbing up currently. To me it seems like the first pour in between days of use will usually have sediment since the yeast cake will want to settle in around the diptube. Maybe after the first 10 pints or so it would be fine, but I’ve never chanced it. I like to pressure transfer into another clean serving vessel that has a Ĺ cup of gelatin solution already inside.

As far as extra trub goes, you could transfer to a new keg before you pitch, leaving the break material behind. I’ve never seen the point in this, but it could help you headspace-wise if you are filling to the full 5 gallons originally.

Jammin: If youre ever in the area, I’d be glad to share! Yes I use ľ inch barbed fittings that screw directly into the filter housing. I can definitely get a picture of my setup on here. Its all torn down right now but maybe next week when I brew another batch (Yay for a Christmas holiday week off!).
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:10 AM   #1168
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I took a gravity sample tonight. As I suspected, the beer has reached 1.016 after just five days, and thats including a 24hr lag time for dry yeast. It has excellent aroma, a rocky head and a very firm bitterness. No sign of diacetyl or other green flavors other than a yeastiness. It might not be quite as black as I wanted but its tough to judge color since the sample had yeast in it. I'm going to keep it at 10psi for another couple of days, then bleed pressure and harvest yeast then dial up the pressure. I might add some priming sugar to ensure adequate carbonation, and maybe some gelatin to speed the clearing.

1.072 to 1.016 in five days, thats fast. 78% attenuation is a perfect result as far as I'm concerned.
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:27 PM   #1169
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Pure awesomeness!
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:37 PM   #1170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lennie View Post
I took a gravity sample tonight. As I suspected, the beer has reached 1.016 after just five days, and thats including a 24hr lag time for dry yeast. It has excellent aroma, a rocky head and a very firm bitterness. No sign of diacetyl or other green flavors other than a yeastiness. It might not be quite as black as I wanted but its tough to judge color since the sample had yeast in it. I'm going to keep it at 10psi for another couple of days, then bleed pressure and harvest yeast then dial up the pressure. I might add some priming sugar to ensure adequate carbonation, and maybe some gelatin to speed the clearing.

1.072 to 1.016 in five days, thats fast. 78% attenuation is a perfect result as far as I'm concerned.
In my opinion I would ramp the pressure up now if you are looking to gain some carbonation outta it. In fact you may be at FG now with that attenuation. If it doesnt drop any more you could either add some priming sugar or just force carb it the rest of the way. One of the great things about a spunding valve is you will not be overcarbed if you have your pressure dialed in at the correct temp.

Also, I think most people find it easier to harvest yeast AFTER you've transferred. Add a half gallon of sterile water, shake and then dispense into a sanitized mason jar=>you now have washed yeast!


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