Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > General Techniques > Closed-system pressurized fermentation technique!
View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 91 11.29%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 21 2.61%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 4 0.50%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 607 75.31%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 83 10.30%
Voters: 806. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 11-22-2011, 11:32 PM   #1111
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Originally Posted by brieuxster View Post
Brewed a 50 liter batch of stout yesterday, and put it into a sanitized Sankey, got the 3/4 inch cut off the spear, and put the spring original ring in place. Got that bad boy back home, sanitized the Sankey tap after removing that pea and retaining clip. Pitched the Yeast.

My pressure relief valve / pressure gauge has not yet arrived.

Will I wake up to a lot of wort / krausen / beer on the floor, or can I leave it with the tap on top and relax? ( Ran out of home brewed beer )

**** Answer Wort was Everywhere *** Pressure built up despite having both the gas and the liquid ports on the taps open.
The beer port on a Sanke should never be left open after any pressure is in the keg. There is only a small opening in the gas port on a Sanke tap connector, and that causes pressure building in a keg regardless of anything else like beer's liquid pressure in a dip-tube assembly. Yeast produce a lot of CO2, at least a lot more than I ever realized until I started using pressure.

My theory on fermentations: An airlock makes it look easy, a blow off bucket makes it look messy, and pressurized fermentation done the wrong way... makes it look dangerous. You should have gone with the recommended closed beer port and blow off hose on your gas port combination until you got the right stuff to do a spunded and controlled pressurized fermentation. Hope you didn't lose too much beer out your beer port. I like to use a sanitized penny, gasket, and beer nut to close off my beer port on a Sanke tap connector.


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Old 11-22-2011, 11:39 PM   #1112
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No I didn't. What I think is cool is to transfer that first little bit of yeast into my 'spartanburg' keg then move the transfer line to my serving keg, nothing but clear beer, baby! The blue handle keg is my dedicated 'spartanburg' keg that my spunding valve rides one.
This is the way I am going to be going myself. This is a great way to top crop if you can, clean out your dip-tube and harvest a bit more yeast, and have wonderfully clear beer upon transfer into the actual serving keg. I hope this catches on and we have more research/more successful batches over this add-on to the (CSPF) technique. Keep it coming 1MadScientist


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Old 11-23-2011, 03:01 AM   #1113
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I like to use a sanitized penny, gasket, and beer nut to close off my beer port on a Sanke tap connector.
Well I have a penny, and a beer nut. Do I remove anything from the Sanke tap connector prior to hooking this up?
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:04 AM   #1114
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Well I have a penny and a plastic gasket with a beer nut on the beer out side

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The rubber hose attached a picnic tap on the gas side bubbling in a glass of water.

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Old 11-23-2011, 01:16 PM   #1115
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Default Looking good and a little advice.

Looking good brieuxster. Sorry it takes me so long to get back to your questions, I'm just a bit busy due to the holiday coming up so it takes me a bit to check back sometimes.

Your setup looks great for what would normally be a blow-off tube type of fermentor. I can't wait until you get your spunding supplies and put the valve together to pressure ferment with accurate pressures.

Quick question for you though. Did you remove the liquid back-flow prevention (check valve) from the gas port on your tap connector? They all look different so explaining what it looks like is futile, but other than the metal the tap connector is made of... there shouldn't be anything in the tap connector gas port while using it as a blow off (or when using the spunding valve) on that port on the connector. I assume you have removed it due to your mess you spoke about in an earlier post, but if for some reason you didn't you might look into that.

Also worth re-mentioning, since the thread is so long I can't remember when I said it last; Not that you would have to remove it the way you are using it now or anything, but just to let you know, the beer port on your tap connector has a ball type check valve in it to prevent beer from going back into the keg during normal serving. When/if you decide to transfer beer using a tap connector, you will want to remove the plastic holder and ball from the connector on the tap of your receiving keg so beer can go down the beer port into the keg. I can usually get a fingernail underneath the edge of the plastic holder and get it out with little effort. Just make sure and don't damage it, oh and make sure you put it in a safe place... they get lost really easy (ask me how I know this).

When you get the spunding supplies, the only modification to the tap connector during your spunded fermentation would be the gas port check valve (liquid back-flow prevention valve). I would leave the beer port as normal on the tap connector, and I would add your hose and picnic tap to the beer port for testing/tasting during your fermentation. That's all I have for now, hope everything is going swimmingly after your initial mess, lol. Let me know if I can be of more help to you. I will check the forum off and on during Thanksgiving.
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:45 AM   #1116
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So I started reading this thread at the beginning of the year but took on the challenge to finish it this weekend. Glad I did because I learned a couple new things along the way. First I was glad to find out cornies require more psi to seal. Most people in this thread are using sankes which don't have this problem. This whole time I thought my 10 gal and 15 gal cornies were bad because they would not seal unless I placed 4 psi on them. This caused my second concern that was eventually cleared up with more reading. There are several posts at the beginning with psi by date schedules and most of them started at 2psi which I could not achieve. After reading more, several people are starting out at 5-7 or at least keeping it under 15 until most the fermentation is completed (then letting it rise to appropriate carb levels).

After doing p-ferm a couple times on my own I want to stress the importance of checking your SV is working properly. On thanksgiving I realized my SV wasn't pushed in all the way. I pushed it in and the gauge went up to 80 immediately and everything in a five foot radius got covered in beer by my high pressure beer rooster tail! Needless to say I'm lucky it didn't explode... And I though it was the deep fried turkey that was going to kill me last Thursday!

Lastly, I saw lots of side conversations on this thread about dry hopping. I was planning on tying a bag or tea ball to the top of the dip tube of my serving keg so that it would be removed from the beer after a couple pints pulled from the keg. I however have never dry hopped in temperatures this low. Anyone else do this method and have any feedback? Length of exposure time change with temp? Maybe a solution would be to tie off the hops in the pressurized fermenter and when you have reached your carb level but before you cold crash, flip the keg upside down to immerse the hops? Or maybe sone fancy contraption that holds them at the top with a hard drive magnet on the outside and you just remove the magnet to drop them into the beer? Just trying to contribute because I have gained a lot of knowledge from this thread, thanks all involved!
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Old 11-29-2011, 04:43 PM   #1117
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Wow you did a lot of reading! I like your idea about suspending the dry hops above the beer with a magnet, then dropping them in later. Wish I had room in my Sanke to try that approach. I am thinking that dry hopping in a second keg is going to be how I go with it, then transfer to a serving keg after that.
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:30 PM   #1118
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Just got my first attempt at this method into the sanke. Getting the original spiral ring back in needs to go into some kind of "zen" book of homebrewing! That was a lesson in patience!

Possibly a stupid question, on the sanke coupler, does the handle need to be in the "locked" or "unlocked" position? Mind is currently in the "locked" position. Thanks!

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Old 11-29-2011, 11:33 PM   #1119
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It would need to be in the locked (down) position as that opens the gas and liquid valves into the keg.
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:35 PM   #1120
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It would need to be in the locked (down) position as that opens the gas and liquid valves into the keg.
Perfect, thanks! That's what I figured when I was messing around with it, just wanted to make sure I had it right.


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