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Old 11-17-2013, 03:41 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
Another easy way to desolder is to heat until it's liquid then drop the keg from a height of 4 inches onto a concrete floor.


.....At times like these... I wonder... Is Bobby Fking with us.... to see if we will actually do it....


or is he talking from experience.... It's so out there I'm guessing the second


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Old 11-17-2013, 04:29 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by CCBrewer View Post
.....At times like these... I wonder... Is Bobby Fking with us.... to see if we will actually do it....

or is he talking from experience.... It's so out there I'm guessing the second
I was thinking the same thing...the experience part, not the F'ing with you...

Cheers!


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Old 11-17-2013, 05:13 PM   #13
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Trust me, it works. No matter what I'm trying to get solder off of, as long as it can take a quick hit to the workbench, I do that rather than using wicking rope (this is a mesh of fine copper used to wick solder away from work). Just as an example, when building my test control box, the panel mount 120v outlet had solder on the spade terminals. I put heat on it, WHAM!!! no more solder on there. Of course be careful, wear eye protection and stuff like that. Hot solder splashing on you isn't fun.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:16 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
Another easy way to desolder is to heat until it's liquid then drop the keg from a height of 4 inches onto a concrete floor.
Thanks for the awesome responses guys. I'll see what I can do when I've got some time to mess with it. We tested it yesterday for kicks and it does hold water.

We used Harris Liquid Stay-Clean flux and Harris Stay-Brite silver solder. The pair worked amazingly well when we used enough, but the bad one was #1 out of 8 fittings. 2-8 look great.

I like the idea of dropping it a few inches. Since there won't be any flux on the oppose side of the keg wall and it'll be cold I'm guessing the flux won't stick.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
Trust me, it works. No matter what I'm trying to get solder off of, as long as it can take a quick hit to the workbench, I do that rather than using wicking rope (this is a mesh of fine copper used to wick solder away from work). Just as an example, when building my test control box, the panel mount 120v outlet had solder on the spade terminals. I put heat on it, WHAM!!! no more solder on there. Of course be careful, wear eye protection and stuff like that. Hot solder splashing on you isn't fun.
I'm an Electrical Engineer so I've got some solder wick in my electronics repair toolbox but I didn't feel like using up $10 worth of wick.

Thanks again for the responses Bobby. When we first started moving to kegs from our stove-top partial boil setup we watched a bunch of your youtube videos. We actually bought our sight gauges and thermometers from you last week and plan on putting another order in soon. Keep up the great work, your wealth of knowledge has been greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-02-2014, 03:17 PM   #16
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Hey guys, I figured I might as well post an update.

I followed Bobby's recommendation of dropping the keg and it worked great. Here's what I did:

1. Laid down a big sheet of leather on the cement to stop the cement from scratching my keg. This is pretty thin and firm leather that won't absorb much shock.
2. Heated up the keg and coupling until the solder began to flow.
3. Flipped it so the coupling was facing up and smacked it hard on the leather. As predicted the silver solder splattered on the other side but did not stick. It came off with a damp cloth.
4. Cleaned up the residual silver solder with increasingly finer sand paper until it was a nice clean surface for the coupling to pull through. Originally there was still a rough thin layer of silver solder.
5. Re-soldered a new coupler in the hole. The original coupler was looking pretty pathetic at this point. It was purple from the repeated heating and was covered in a thin coarse layer of dried solder.

Attached is a photo. I haven't scrubbed and cleaned it up yet but I'm very happy with the final result. It is perfectly water tight now.

Thanks for all the help!
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Old 01-02-2014, 04:11 PM   #17
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Nice work!!
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Old 01-19-2014, 04:53 AM   #18
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My first attempt at soldering this evening was a fail too. Glad to find this thread...that it is worth desoldering and trying again. I'm thinking that I must not have had the piece completely clamped tight enough all around. I had a really nice solder all but 10 degrees. Then I tried heating it up and just closing up that gap...it kept eating solder. I added flux and it kept eating more solder. So frustrating.
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:40 PM   #19
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Where you putting the heat directly on/under the spot that was eating the solder? Try ruffing up around that spot with some sand paper and a little more flux then heat the pot near the spot and let the heat drift to the spot to slowly melt the solder. The key is to heat slowly and just enough for the solder to take. I had 2 joints with small problem areas like that and it worked out well for me. I even used this to seal up 2 rivet holes on a lid that I removed the handle off of.
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:04 PM   #20
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After cleaning the surfaces with sandpaper you need to wipe down everything with a solvent like alcohol.

Any residual oil, grease, wax, or other contaminate can keep the solder from flowing properly.


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