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Old 01-28-2009, 02:37 PM   #111
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Also, how does the single tier work out with only one pump? Do you find it's pretty functional?

I was previously planning on having my HLT elevated and using gravity to feed the MT (both for strike/sparge water, and for draining the recirc so there's not wort left in there).

I have the space for the second level but was just curious if the single-level design was so functional with one pump that the second level is unnecessary.
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Old 01-28-2009, 05:03 PM   #112
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I never felt that sealing the disconnect was necessary since I'm literally swapping them from one vessel to another at the same height. I usually close down pump's output ball valve completely, close the vessel valves, move the connections and reopen the pump valve. Disconnects that have self sealing valves are really highly restrictive to flow so if I did use them, they'd have to be upsized to 3/4".

Single tier plans with one pump restrict you to batch sparging. If you think of that proces, you only have to move one type of liquid at a time. If you want to fly sparge, the elevated HLT is a great solution to save a pump.
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Old 01-28-2009, 06:41 PM   #113
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I prefer batch sparging anyway so that's no problem. I did not know that the disconnects that had valves on them inhibited flow. That is very good to know. I'll have to take a look at my design again before I build the stand for it. Going single tier is sounding more appealing. Thanks for the info.
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Old 02-19-2009, 01:50 PM   #114
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Now that I've fly-sparged for almost a half-dozen batches, I'm considering doing some batch sparges again.
Fly sparging for me is a bit of a pain to get the levels set right, and I worry that the top of the grain bed is just going to end up getting astringency extracted (tannins) as it's spending the whole sparge getting sprayed with more alkaline water, while the grains on the bottom see very little, getting that slow gradient of dissolved sugars decreasing.
With the batch sparge, it's homogeneous in there.

If you batch, you need to vorlauf for each batch, but once it's running clear you can drain out at almost full throttle.

I'm kind of torn between the two.

I may do another fly sparge and keep sampling the outflow with an eyedropper to test on the refractometer, use the brix-to-Plato table, and stop it at a plato higher than 2. Then I can compare by doing the same recipe as a batch sparge and see what happens.
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Old 05-20-2009, 10:28 PM   #115
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It would be possible to use copper as the gas/propane line, correct? I am thinking that will alleviate the issue of standardized pipe length. I have seen another brew stand that used copper, but can't remember with thread.

If copper was used, what size would work do you think?
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:49 AM   #116
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Thanks to recommendations from Bobby, my QD's were waiting on my front porch today. The 90 degree angled female sockets are awesome. I can't wait for everything to come together.

Progress so far: Single tier stand: 80%


http://twitpic.com/5lhfe
http://twitpic.com/5ibfq

I am planning on using some diamond plating for the bottom and pump cover (I found a place that has scrap diamond plating that is 40% off full price.

I have silicone tubing, couplings, and QD's from McMaster.

I am planning on having the gas plumbing done by end of next week and maybe I can brew that weekend! We'll see. It takes about 5 times longer than you think it will
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:14 AM   #117
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Hi

I also would like to thank Bobby for this thread and his on-going support.

I am planning to begin this process as well and will have some questions to ask of all with experience and opinions.

I started out with my March pump purchase. I like batch sparging so that is what I will do using one pump.

Bobby, at one point in this thread you said that it was a real pain to line up the plumbing pieces and the burners etc.

Would it be easier to design and fit the plumbing, then design the size of the stand needed to fit the plumbing?
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:31 AM   #118
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I think the easiest way to line up the burners is to use some kind of flex line between your valves and burners. Of course, it's doable with rigid pipe but you have to be prepared to take it apart many times while you're trying to fit everything up. Buy a ton of pipe nipple lengths and then just return what you don't use.
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:40 AM   #119
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Thanks Bobby

Any good recommendations on burners? You use the 23 tip that you modified down to 15, and then 10 if I remember correctly. Have you run across a burner you now wish was available back when you were building.

I am going to use natural gas as well. What are you using from the NG source to your brew stand? I would like to use a flexible pipe as I brew in the garage in the winter but would like to also brew on my patio when I can.
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:23 PM   #120
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I use some kludged together hose set I made up to connect to the stand. Imagine a really long disclaimer about doing that.......

If you have two locations you want to connect into, it's best to have rigid pipe running to both locations so you can use the shortest piece of flex hose you can.

While I've gotten my multi-jet burners to work for me, in most cases, I really have a hard time recommending them. I want to try the Hurricane burner with the nat gas orifice. My biggest problem right now is getting my mashtun burner to run low enough.
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