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Old 09-30-2013, 01:03 AM   #1
ZenFitness
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I have a two-stage fermentation kit with a bottling bucket and some other miscellaneous parts. I'm wanting to make the transition from kit beers to all grain beers, and I'm thinking of picking up the following:

1. Rubbermaid 10 Gallon Cooler for a mash tun ($45)
2. Parts to convert #1 ($10)
3. 12" Phil's Phalse Bottom for #1 ($25)
4. Heavy Duty 15 Gallon Brew Kettle with Ball Valve ($250)
5. Burner ($100)
6. Wort Chiller ($70)

I plan on batch sparging to begin with, and I'm thinking of the ball valve kettle for when I eventually move to a more expensive wort chiller. I can't seem to find a 15 gallon stainless steel kettle that will fit on my stove - if I could, I would ditch the burner and the ball valve kettle and save some money.

Aside from tubing, is there anything I am missing here, or am I going overboard in some way? The plan is to use the cooler as the mash tun, batch sparge it, and use the wort chiller to cool the wort in the kettle. Eventually I would get a pump and use the pump to vorlauf and to suction the wort through a plate wort chiller. I figure those parts are investments on down the road.



 
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:08 AM   #2
dbrewski
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You might consider this kettle, cheap and decent for a 15 gallons. I have it and like it.

http://www.homebrewing.org/2-Weld-15...ot_p_2756.html



 
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:10 AM   #3
glick
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you can get a burner much cheaper then $100 if you shop around. You can also make a chiller for about $35.

 
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:12 AM   #4
insanim8er
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Where are you getting parts to convert the cooler for $10? The SS ball valve is more than that with out shipping.

 
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:18 AM   #5
ZenFitness
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Thanks everyone for the feedback! I definitely would like to drop the cost on the kettle and burner, so that is helpful. For that kettle above, how much do attachments to plug or utilize the pre-drilled valve holes cost?

Quote:
Originally Posted by insanim8er View Post
Where are you getting parts to convert the cooler for $10? The SS ball valve is more than that with out shipping.
Estimating from here:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/chea...version-23008/

 
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:04 AM   #6
insanim8er
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenFitness View Post
Ah... Brass... But also a 2007 post. Might be more now.

I would get the parts from bargainfittings and do all stainless.

 
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:21 AM   #7
dbrewski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenFitness View Post
Thanks everyone for the feedback! I definitely would like to drop the cost on the kettle and burner, so that is helpful. For that kettle above, how much do attachments to plug or utilize the pre-drilled valve holes cost?
They are standard 1/2" threaded fittings, as others have suggested go to bargainfittings.com to get the parts.

 
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:10 AM   #8
dracus
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barginfitting rules. Grab a coleman extreeme cooler. I have both and the xtreeme holds heat way better and is marginally cheaper and much larger than the 10gallon rubbermaid.

It more or less uses the same cooler kit for mash tun.

 
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:24 AM   #9
insanim8er
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dracus View Post
barginfitting rules. Grab a coleman extreeme cooler. I have both and the xtreeme holds heat way better and is marginally cheaper and much larger than the 10gallon rubbermaid.

It more or less uses the same cooler kit for mash tun.
Hmm... I dont know about the rest, but my Rubbermaid 10 gal does a fantastic job holding temp, and it fits my SS false bottom perfect.

 
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:28 AM   #10
RM-MN
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I can understand you wanting to go to all grain as I have done it and I love the possibilities and the challenges but I'm not sure if your question is "can I save some money on these items by buying from somewhere else" or is it "is there a way to go to all grain without spending this much money"? If having a traditional mash tun and being set up to do batch sparging is important to you, then I can't help you much. Shopping has gotten easier with the internet because you can use the search engines and find cheaper prices for the items but you then have to add in the shipping to find out if it is a good deal.

If your goal is the second option I listed, you can be doing all grain batches for much less money by going BIAB. BIAB avoids the mash tun, the false bottom, the parts to convert the cooler to a mash tun, the 15 gallon pot, the expensive burner and still makes the same quality beer and will let you do it in less time. You decide which way you want to go and someone can advise you better on your choices. I can do 5 gallon batches with a turkey fryer rig I bought for about $60 that includes the burner, a pair of paint strainer bags for around $5, and a Corona style grain mill for about $30 delivered to my door. A chiller would be nice but I can still make good beer without it.



 
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