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Old 12-29-2013, 06:10 AM   #21
crane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glock View Post
Would the heating element touching the inside of the RIMS tube cause the GFCI to trip?

No. Water is conductive so having water touch the heating element would have the same affect as the element touching the side of the tube.

You really need to buy yourself a multimeter if you don't already own one. Use it to measure the resistance between the different wires. You should measure 10-20 Ohms between hot and neutral. You should measure an open between either of them and ground. Sounds like you have a short between one of them and ground. Start disassembling the RIMS tube to see what's causing the short.

You should always use a multimeter to ohms things out before you plug anything in.

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Old 01-03-2014, 05:44 PM   #22
jCOSbrew
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Feb 2012
Colorado Springs, CO
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Not related to the GFCI issue but is your main power switch rated for 20 amps @ 120V AC?
Most are rated for 5-10 amps.

 
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:59 PM   #23
Bobby_M
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He's not pulling anywhere near 20amps but that doesn't trip a GFCI anyway.

Did you say you potted the electrical with JB weld? That makes it hard to troubleshoot.
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:18 PM   #24
Glock
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Sep 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jCOSbrew View Post
Not related to the GFCI issue but is your main power switch rated for 20 amps @ 120V AC?
Most are rated for 5-10 amps.
These are the switches that were recommended, so I used them. I thought of that amp issue early on in the build process but I don't believe it to be the problem.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=223

 
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:21 PM   #25
Glock
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Sep 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
He's not pulling anywhere near 20amps but that doesn't trip a GFCI anyway.

Did you say you potted the electrical with JB weld? That makes it hard to troubleshoot.
The JB Weld is now removed. I took apart the whole tube to try and diagnose the problem by starting at the beginning. Still had the same problem so back at it today.

 
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:47 AM   #26
Glock
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Ohms read 13.8 when connected to hot and neutral. No reading or actually 1 when hot to ground or neutral to ground. The panel reading is 230 with all the switches closed. Thoughts?

 
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Old 01-06-2014, 03:07 AM   #27
mattd2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glock View Post
Ohms read 13.8 when connected to hot and neutral. No reading or actually 1 when hot to ground or neutral to ground. The panel reading is 230 with all the switches closed. Thoughts?
Sorry but what do you mean by "or actually 1"?

 
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Old 01-06-2014, 03:20 AM   #28
Glock
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Sep 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattd2 View Post
Sorry but what do you mean by "or actually 1"?
Sorry it doesn't say 1 it's the default symbol "|" when the meter is turned on. So there is no reading when hot or neutral to ground

 
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Old 01-06-2014, 03:30 AM   #29
mattd2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glock View Post
Sorry it doesn't say 1 it's the default symbol "|" when the meter is turned on. So there is no reading when hot or neutral to ground
ahhhh, open circuit.
All I can think of is a stray wire and when you removed the JB weld it moved the wire. Is it still tripping the GFCI?

 
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Old 01-06-2014, 05:39 AM   #30
Glock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattd2 View Post
ahhhh, open circuit.
All I can think of is a stray wire and when you removed the JB weld it moved the wire. Is it still tripping the GFCI?
Yes after JB Weld was removed I tried it again and it still tripped the GFCI. At this point I may have to get a new wire for the element or a new element itself. I'm at a loss here since all the the visual wiring seems intact.

 
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