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Old 09-23-2013, 09:13 PM   #11
Glock
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Question. Are the fuses for this diagram supposed to be fast acting or time delayed? Thanks

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/imag...asic5-RIMS.jpg


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Old 09-23-2013, 09:54 PM   #12
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Also I noticed this diagram http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/imag...asic5-RIMS.jpg has a 20 amp fuse to the SSR where the numerous others I've studied do not. Is there any special reason for this?


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Old 09-23-2013, 10:06 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glock View Post
Also I noticed this diagram http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/imag...asic5-RIMS.jpg has a 20 amp fuse to the SSR where the numerous others I've studied do not. Is there any special reason for this?
A 2000W element on 120V draws 16.7 amps. 20A protection is appropriate.

Oh - and your last question. Fast blow fuses are appropriate for our application as we are dealing with resistive loads.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:33 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by P-J View Post
A 2000W element on 120V draws 16.7 amps. 20A protection is appropriate.

Oh - and your last question. Fast blow fuses are appropriate for our application as we are dealing with resistive loads.
Thank you, fast blow fuses all around, check.

I think another problem has arisen. I'm running this on a dedicated 20 amp breaker however I planned on using a 4500W 240v LWD element. Even if I'm running it on 120v does that mean my draw is 18.75 amps? Or 4500W/120V = 37.5? or... since wattage is knocked down by 1/4 is it 1125w/120v = 9.375 amps. In other words I'm confused and concerned that the element will trip the breaker. Thoughts?

Thanks
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:53 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Glock View Post
Thank you, fast blow fuses all around, check.

I think another problem has arisen. I'm running this on a dedicated 20 amp breaker however I planned on using a 4500W 240v LWD element. Even if I'm running it on 120v does that mean my draw is 18.75 amps? Or 4500W/120V = 37.5? or... since wattage is knocked down by 1/4 is it 1125w/120v = 9.375 amps. In other words I'm confused and concerned that the element will trip the breaker. Thoughts?

Thanks
Yes.. You got it right with this:

"since wattage is knocked down by 1/4 is it 1125w/120v = 9.375 amps"

Right on the money!!!

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Old 09-24-2013, 01:04 AM   #16
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Awesome Sauce!! Thanks again P-J

Glad I don't have to return another element (first one was HWD) and I don't have to get different fuses since I questioned myself after getting fast-blow fuses then noticed that the diagram didn't say "fast-blow". So I think I'm good to start my build...but now that I've said that I'm sure something will come up and have to ask. Thanks again P-J you rock!
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:17 AM   #17
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Awesome Sauce!! Thanks again P-J

Glad I don't have to return another element (first one was HWD) and I don't have to get different fuses since I questioned myself after getting fast-blow fuses then noticed that the diagram didn't say "fast-blow". So I think I'm good to start my build...but now that I've said that I'm sure something will come up and have to ask. Thanks again P-J you rock!
I'm really glad that I could help you. When you have other questions for me with your build - just post them on this thread as I've already involves with you. This is a suggestion as I have my PMs turned off [because I got tired of the hundreds of questions via pm's to me every month].

I'll help you as best that I can.

P-J
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Old 12-23-2013, 04:45 PM   #18
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So I finally got my RIMS tube back from the plumber's shop. Basic setup but made out of copper. I got everything hooked up and starting running a test. I had the water flowing through the pump and tube but when I turn on the RIMs tube switch it trips the GFCI. The panel is wired right, I'm able to plug in something else (ie hair dryer) and the outlet works, although it doesn't run continous it's a second on, second off. The element is grounded by 12-3 wire with the ground attached the the tube via hose clamp. So my question is why does the tube keep tripping the element. Is....?

the element touching the side of the tube?
the load too much for the extension cord? (was using 14-3)
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Old 12-23-2013, 05:35 PM   #19
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or is JB Weld conductive? Is so then that could be the problem.
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Old 12-27-2013, 10:49 PM   #20
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Ok, so in trying to eliminate the problem I finally just filled the RIMS tube with water and plugged it straight into the GFCI outlet I plan on using for the brew rig. Not the smartest idea I know but I was at a loss for trying to determine the problem. So with the tube plugged in and the GFCI tripped I tried to reset the GFCI outlet but I would just trip again upon release of the button. The wire connections are dry, the ground wire is attached via hose clamp around the tube, so what's the problem here? Would the heating element touching the inside of the RIMS tube cause the GFCI to trip?


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