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Old 09-19-2013, 11:40 PM   #11
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How do you wire it from that single 30 or 50 amp 120v circuit to provide power to both receptacles of the control panel?


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Old 09-20-2013, 01:41 PM   #12
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Bring in your 3 wires (Black-Line, White-Neutral, Green-Ground\Earth). Ground the cabinet to the green wire (there should be a post for this). Then you can bring your input (Black and white)voltage to a terminal block then out to the devices, or daisy chain the devices (Input-A-B-C-D).

Terminal blocks would be the best method, especially if you want to fuse devices individually.

Let me know if this makes sense, or I can sketch something up quickly.


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Old 09-20-2013, 04:07 PM   #13
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Kinda following ya. What are terminal blocks? Are these relays or are you referring to the controller pid or to the plug receptacles? A drawing would be helpful if you could!

Thanks!
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Old 09-20-2013, 04:14 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by owentp View Post
Kinda following ya. What are terminal blocks? Are these relays or are you referring to the controller pid or to the plug receptacles? A drawing would be helpful if you could!

Thanks!
Terminal blocks take one wire connection and turn it into multiple connections. Or just act as a place to connect two different wire runs.
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Old 09-20-2013, 04:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owentp View Post
Kinda following ya. What are terminal blocks? Are these relays or are you referring to the controller pid or to the plug receptacles? A drawing would be helpful if you could!

Thanks!
Pictures showing terminal blocks inside my enclosure.
Look at them as a distribution system.

http://m238.photobucket.com/albumvie....jpg.html?o=25

http://m238.photobucket.com/albumvie....jpg.html?o=24
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Old 09-20-2013, 05:43 PM   #16
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Yes, you can run both your controller and a heating element from a single 120VAC circuit. You will need to determine what amperage your power circuit is (or can be). I would recommend at least a 20A circuit breaker, preferably the GFCI type. That circuit would require #12 AWG wiring. This would be fine with a 1500W element (12.5A) for your RIMS tube and your controller (the datasheet I found for it only showed a 50mA current draw at 120VAC). If you choose a 2000W element (16.7A), you'll be getting close to capacity and will be exceeding the 80% guideline. You could then choose a 30A (GFCI) circuit breaker, but would need to ensure that the circuit is wired with #10 AWG wire.

Another style of readily available terminal blocks are below. I use what's called a power distribution block for my panel that has 240VAC, 50A incoming hot, hot, and neutral wires, along with a ground block for the grounds. This is an easy way to distribute multiple, smaller gauge wire circuits from a single, larger incoming circuit. See an example below.
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:24 PM   #17
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Like a Buss bar?
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:28 PM   #18
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Could I run the controller, element & march pump? Any good wiring pics? I'm one of those visual learners.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:49 PM   #19
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This is a pic of the diagram & connections to my controller. Its a Rex C100. Chinese version of a Aubins. Anybody make heads or tales of where I am supposed to connect what wires to what connections?
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owentp View Post
This is a pic of the diagram & connections to my controller. Its a Rex C100. Chinese version of a Aubins. Anybody make heads or tales of where I am supposed to connect what wires to what connections?
Well...it looks like 1 and 2 are your power in (not polarized, most likely). 8/9/10 are for connecting your RTD probe. 6/7 are the alarm. 4 goes the positive side of the SSR, 3 goes to the negative side of the SSR.


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