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Old 09-10-2013, 06:32 PM   #11
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lI assume they are for the Elements on HLT and BK and possibly a RIMS tube for the MLT? Looks good though..

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Old 09-11-2013, 01:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery
Maybe I'm not getting it. When I look at your panel I see two switches under each PID, for a total of 6 switches. The bottom row (3 of them total) appear to be what pickles is talking about, and I get that - they're clearly labeled as PUMP controllers.

What are the three switches above the pump switches, below the PIDs doing? I feel like I'm in some scenario where everyone else knows what's going on except me, and I somehow missed the big obvious answer...
Usually i miss some big part that loses everyone. Don't feel bad, have a beer. Those are the for the BT, mlt (rims), and hlt. They should indicate on, off, and auto.


I have indicator lights above the 3-position selectors that would light when elements are on. I think I am going with lighted selector switches so when elements are on they will light up no matter the on or auto position.


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Old 09-12-2013, 12:04 PM   #13
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Gotcha, that's what I thought, but I got confused along the way because you said the PIDs weren't actually going to be used. Here's why - you indicated you wanted full manual override, which makes a lot of sense and is a cool "bling" factor. If you get rid of the PIDs and have that row of switches basically just serve as an auto (BCS controlled), off (zero power to elements), or on (100% power all time), then you have lost the ability to manually regulate temperatures without the BCS - the elements will heat up as hot as they can get when in the on mode.

If you keep the PIDs as shown in your original design and you actually use those PIDs to run your elements in the manual mode, then you'd be able to dial in a temperature and the PIDs would modulate the elements and you'd have pure 100% adjustable and tuneable manual control over your panel.

It's obviously your panel and your design, but I think it'd make a lot of sense to keep the PIDs and actually use their functionality so you have that backup that you're looking for.
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:53 PM   #14
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I agree if you plan to use it truly as a back up then the PID would be the way to go. I use my manual switches a bit differently. I like to be able heat water independently of the BT; this allows me to heat water for cleaning, a crab boil after brewing, etc. I have an element in the HLT for heating strike water, but since I have a RIMS tube I can manually turn on a pump and the RIMS tube to augment the heating process and really get up to temps quickly.
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Old 09-12-2013, 02:29 PM   #15
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Good point on the PID and full/semi auto. I have seen some smaller analog dials that work for 220. Auber sells the SSVR for $25. On my set up I would also have to buy displays that look like PIDs ($35). That is more than an actual PID. . Doesn't make sense to go that route. I am a fan of simplicity when you need it.

I am going to buy PID controllers so I can go manual if I wish to do so. I did a quick update with the way my set up is going to work. I put my set up as the background then added the switches to see how it looked late last night. I couldn't sleep with all the rain were getting in Colorado so it may not be fully correct.

What do you think about this new draft of the CP design? I pulled elements from JonW's set up and Kal's CP. I like how it is coming out with help from this thread.
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:05 PM   #16
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So it's been decided that I'm going with a hybrid PID and BCS system. I'm thinking about the selector switches, do I go 3 or 4 way. I like the idea of having PID off bcs for the selections on the switch. The reason I'm thinking going this way I'm going is duty cycle concerns. Once an element is on how do I really control the temp? I'm thinking counting to 3 turn it off, then count to 7 turn it on, the repeat.

Thoughts?

I also found this from an old post. Looks like no one answered. Additional thoughts?


Quote:
Originally Posted by summerofgeorge View Post
If you have a PID system and decide to upgrade to the BCS, is it possible to keep the PIDs and use them in manual mode? Say you went with ON/OFF/AUTO switches on the elements. Could ON use PIDs and AUTO use BCS? I know you'd need two sets of temp probes but could you "share" the other stuff (SSRs, relays, etc)?

I guess I'd wonder about the converse too...if you went from BCS to a normal PID system, could you keep the BCS for data logging? I know it's a waste given the BCS's capabilities but if you already have it, why not...

For those of you who switched between BCS and PIDs, did you bag the other system or incorporate both into the new system?
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Old 09-18-2013, 01:15 AM   #17
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The third iteration of the cp.

Auburn Instuments has a sweet sale on a control panel with 3 PID cutout and heat sink for less than a 100. So this is what I'm going with. So I redrew my design.
I'm not totally in love with the design. What would you do?
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:20 AM   #18
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I the box in. My estimates are way off. So I remeasured and put this design together for it.
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:21 AM   #19
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Here is the naked box
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:05 AM   #20
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I'm laying my panel out with Visio since it lets me put in exact measurements and easily move things around. One thing I'm finding though is seeing them on the panel itself gives a better perspective. To do this I printed drawings of each component on card stock out at scale and then put them on the panel. I still haven't got it all dialed in but I think I get closer everyday. Looking at what others are doing helps out too.



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