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Old 03-21-2008, 04:30 PM   #21
paranode
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Yeah I like it, didn't want to have to mess with the fan stuff. Thanks for the idea!

 
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Old 04-02-2008, 08:30 PM   #22
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That is an awesome solution - I like it. If you wanted to boost insulation a bit more, you might even thinking about a shot or two of that spray-on insulation for the upper beer line / shank area. You could probably construct a thin cardboard barrier to give you a clean volume for the additional insulation such that you could slide it out of the top whenever you need to mess with the line/shank interface.

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Originally Posted by bradsul
While I'm sure there is a small amount of air movement, the tubes are basically completely filled when you run the beer line through so I doubt it has much affect.
I was thinking about that too as I was reading the post - but if you think about it there is probably very little-to-no convection potential. Given that the tower area will be warmer thant the refrigerator area, there would be a higher density in the cold refrigerator than the tower. The cold dense air is more than happy staying down in the refrigerator; thus no convection. Now, if you had a wall-mounted fridge and the tower came down from the bottom - now we're talking!

 
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Old 04-02-2008, 08:39 PM   #23
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Very cool ideas!

 
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Old 04-02-2008, 08:42 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lspr_mtu
That is an awesome solution - I like it. If you wanted to boost insulation a bit more, you might even thinking about a shot or two of that spray-on insulation for the upper beer line / shank area. You could probably construct a thin cardboard barrier to give you a clean volume for the additional insulation such that you could slide it out of the top whenever you need to mess with the line/shank interface...
I did something similar with the cap of the tower, though not to quite that extent. Just a circular piece of extruded foam insulation (leftover from my son of fermentation chiller build). It comes down right to the top of the shanks, so it doesn't leave too much of an airspace in there.

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Old 08-27-2008, 11:48 PM   #25
physast
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I just finished doing this exact thing with the copper tubes. I replaced the insulation in the tower with some stuff from ACE hardware and wrapped the copper tubes with another insulating layer. So far everything seems to be good. I can't comment on the effectiveness as of yet, because I don't have any beer in the kegs.

Cost: $17.25 !

 
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Old 08-29-2008, 03:06 PM   #26
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One more piece of my soon to be kegerator decided upon! thx Bradsul
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Old 08-31-2008, 12:30 PM   #27
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I did this same method and its easy to add additional copper. Put a T (facing like this -| )at the end, run the beer line out the bottom and another pipe out the side...pics available if anyone needs.
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Old 09-01-2008, 01:35 AM   #28
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Leave those 1/2" copper lines extended into the frige an inch or more, solder a 6"x6"x1/8" piece of copper plate to both pipe lines. Using 1/4" hardware store nylon washers and screws stand off the copper plate away from the frige top allowing for more cold air contact to the copper plate minus the two 1/2" holes area leaves over 38.61 sq/inches of 1/8" copper plate not counting the 1/2" copper stubs, that should pull heat from those 1/2" copper lines.
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:54 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnio View Post
I did this same method and its easy to add additional copper. Put a T (facing like this -| )at the end, run the beer line out the bottom and another pipe out the side...pics available if anyone needs.
That's a great idea. I tried to do it on mine last night and I couldn't get the rear keg out without having to take the T off. Not a huge deal so I'm going to try it out and see what the temperature differential is like compared to not having it (which for me is only 1C between the top and the bottom).
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Old 09-02-2008, 09:49 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradsul View Post
That's a great idea. I tried to do it on mine last night and I couldn't get the rear keg out without having to take the T off. Not a huge deal so I'm going to try it out and see what the temperature differential is like compared to not having it (which for me is only 1C between the top and the bottom).
I have my "cross" bar up against the lid of the kegerator so that it is flush when I open the top (chest freezer) you might be able to tweak it somehow....I am not sure how much it helps, since I did it on construction. I just figured the extra mass of copper can't hurt.
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