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Old 02-15-2011, 06:37 PM   #111
JohnnyGunn
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Oct 2010
Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 65


Just my 2 cents...but I tried the copper pipe method, exactly as shown in the first post...and it didn't work. At all. I had pipe drop into the fridge about 4" and even put a "t" on the end and sent a piece of copper another 6" across the top of the fridge and it still wasn't nearly cold enough.

I've switched to the pc fan method (very easy to do and very inexpensive)...and even though I won't have a keg in the fridge to try it out until the end of the week...the tower is already unbelievably cold to the touch (still have to add some insulation to the tower "cover"). I shouldn't have any warm first pour issues again!

I'll post comments once I get my newest and fullest corny!

Later.

Jon.



 
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Old 02-18-2011, 10:22 PM   #112
JohnnyGunn
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Oct 2010
Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 65


Alright...so my PC fan mod is complete, installed and tested!!

The difference is unreal! Cold beer on the first pour without that half glass of head!

Thanks to this forum for all the help!

Later guys!



 
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:04 PM   #113
Jonnio
 
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Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyGunn
Just my 2 cents...but I tried the copper pipe method, exactly as shown in the first post...and it didn't work. At all. I had pipe drop into the fridge about 4" and even put a "t" on the end and sent a piece of copper another 6" across the top of the fridge and it still wasn't nearly cold enough.

I've switched to the pc fan method (very easy to do and very inexpensive)...and even though I won't have a keg in the fridge to try it out until the end of the week...the tower is already unbelievably cold to the touch (still have to add some insulation to the tower "cover"). I shouldn't have any warm first pour issues again!

I'll post comments once I get my newest and fullest corny!

Later.

Jon.
If your trying to make the tower cold this method won't work. You have to add insulation to the inside of the tower. The added benefit for me is that in 100 degree Alabama summers my lines stayed perfectly cold in my garage keezer without the thermal load and condensation that the fan method would bring.
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Old 02-19-2011, 02:34 PM   #114
GlenF
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Jul 2009
Mattoon, Illinois
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This is my setup, which works great. I have the copper pipe extending about 1/2' into my keezer and about halfway up the tower. My beer lines are insulated w/ Styrofoam. The keezer is set to 38F. I have never had problems with warm or foamy beer. It might be the copper or Styrofoam. It could be that the lines just aren't long enough, and the beer contained within is negligible by the time the cold beer from the keg is entering the lines. But I am extremely happy with the setup either way.
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:53 PM   #115
JohnnyGunn
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Oct 2010
Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 65


I goes to show that each setup is different...because my copper pipe method of cooling my lines did absolutely nothing. I had my 3/16" beer lines running inside a 1/2" copper pipe, insulated with spray foam inside a 2" ABS pipe, that went about 3/4 of the way up my tower. Total distance from inside of fridge to shank was about 18".

I'm glad it's worked out for so many others though. The main thing is that we each get to enjoy great beer in the comfort of our home...how ever we cool it!

Later guys!

 
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:14 AM   #116
BrewBeemer
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Feb 2006
small island paradise, the lost atoll
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A couple of these 12 fans, 80mm diameter cheap as hell plus ball bearing.
One to push cold from the bottom of the keezer the second in the coffin pushing down. http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co...?number=G17018

 
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:46 AM   #117
Marshall081
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Jun 2011
Ontario, California
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In the RC hobby when you have plastic parts that you want to paint a common option is to dye them. For this you get Rit Dye for clothing from almost any store anywhere for about $1. 50 add it to boiling water and mix well then take off heat add parts and let sit for a while. I wonder if that would work here. You have all the basic colors to choose from. I'm thinking you can just sand the surface clean with some fine grit sandpaper and dye it and it will produce a very smooth consistent finish. It may be a pretty matte finish though so if your in to gloss you can just hit it with some clearcoat at that point.

 
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:26 PM   #118
day_trippr
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May 2011
Stow, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall081 View Post
In the RC hobby when you have plastic parts that you want to paint a common option is to dye them. For this you get Rit Dye for clothing from almost any store anywhere for about $1. 50 add it to boiling water and mix well then take off heat add parts and let sit for a while. I wonder if that would work here. [...]
fwiw, in my RC modeling days I used the Rit dye technique to tint plastic parts - typically canopies - and for that it was pretty effective. But as for ending up with anything opaque (I'm assuming you're thinking about dyeing a plastic tower) not so much. You just can't get the density of color needed.

That said, a tinted tower might suit someone's fancy...

Cheers!

 
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:32 PM   #119
starrfish
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Oct 2008
Florence, SC
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tint/dye on a pvc tower could be very cool. krylon plastic spray paint is an option for opaque, but a limited color range.
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Old 09-17-2011, 12:41 PM   #120
tnaratil
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Sep 2011
Aquashicola, PA`
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double post whupps

admin please delete




 
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