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Old 10-09-2013, 12:08 AM   #31
scarnera
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It appears to me that you do not have a light go on and off on the 2342 to indicate when you have a call for heat. Is this correct?

I have a very similar build and am using the 2342's and HW valves. I am using 7 and 8 to control the valves and thought I could use those as well to control a light for each PID to indicate the call for heat. Unfortunetly the lights are turning off on the call for heat and on when there is no call for heat. 24V is running through 7 and 8 when there is no call for heat and 0V when there is a call for heat.

The remainder of the system is working perfectly inclding the values. Just this one little "feature" that is driving me nuts.

Very nice build!


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Old 10-09-2013, 03:11 AM   #32
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You're correct. I am only using a light on the RIMS tube as I want to make sure it doesn't fire dry. The HLT makes an audible spark so you know it is coming on, and once it is at temperature it doesn't come on very often. Maybe once every 10 or 15 minutes.

As for your lights, I would run a leg direct to neutral and the second leg to 7. That should give you the result you are looking for.


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Old 10-10-2013, 03:29 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by de3isit View Post
You're correct. I am only using a light on the RIMS tube as I want to make sure it doesn't fire dry. The HLT makes an audible spark so you know it is coming on, and once it is at temperature it doesn't come on very often. Maybe once every 10 or 15 minutes.

As for your lights, I would run a leg direct to neutral and the second leg to 7. That should give you the result you are looking for.
Let me know the next time you are in the DFW area, You will have several cold one's waiting for you.

Thanks for the help! Worked as you suggested.

Seve
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Old 10-10-2013, 03:32 AM   #34
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That's awesome to hear! Glad to help as I have received much of the same help.
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Old 10-10-2013, 10:34 PM   #35
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So the first run with the new system went really well. We shaved nearly an hour off of the brew process by using the RIMS tube and the MLT burner to get up to mash temperature. We did the same process when we were getting up to the boil.

The RIMS tube placement was perfect. The only issue is the wort loss when moving the hoses around.
The overall efficiency went from 75% to 98%. The OG was supposed to come in at 1.063 and came in at 1.087.
That's how I run it on my system. And I've learned to make all my recipes at 95%
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:03 PM   #36
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Wow I definitely need to build a new system. I'm getting 57% but with my upgraded system I am thinking about moving it to my basement which would cause me to go electric. Been debating about herms or rims. Still trying to get an idea and look at pros and cons of both.
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Old 10-14-2013, 02:16 AM   #37
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Update

So I got the RIMS tube bracket welded in place. I also went to the metal surplus store and got a piece of 1.5" tube steel and a 6"x6" plate to build the control arm. It may be a little long, but I wanted to make sure it was far enough away from the heat.

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Today I got bored and tore the whole thing apart to put a nice coat of paint on it. The top stayed flat black and the rest is a gloss blue.

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Old 10-17-2013, 03:34 AM   #38
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Update

So I finished reassembling everything tonight. The gas pipe was pretty rusty so I sanded it down and put a coat of flat black on it. The only thing left is to pick up a couple bolts to mount the plate chiller and to fire up the burners to heat treat the paint.

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Old 10-21-2013, 11:00 PM   #39
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Update

So I think everything is pretty much done now. (Until my next upgrade) I got all of the tags on today. Now it looks legit.

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Old 11-05-2013, 03:48 AM   #40
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P-J,
I brewed last weekend and everything turned out awesome. Thanks for all the help. I do have a question though. Just for giggles I hit the E-stop and nothing happened. The wiring is pretty straight forward so I don't think I screwed it up. Is there something I should be looking for?

Again, the brew day went exceptionally well.


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