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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Steppping stone between BIAB and a 5500 watt eBIAB setup
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:40 PM   #1
bemerritt
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Default Steppping stone between BIAB and a 5500 watt eBIAB setup

After a BIAB session (and many homebrews) this weekend I have finally decided to dive into electric brewing. The main limiting factor is living in an apartment and the power that is available. Therefore, an interim step between where I am now and what I want with a 240v 30A is needed.

The one goal that I want to keep intact is a system that can easily be upgrading to the ever so popular 5500 watt element with a bottom draining keggle. For the time being, I will be using a 1500 watt element inside my current keggle to maintain mash temperatures during my recirculating biab mash step. This brings up my first question, is this element powerful enough to maintain ~8 gallons @ 170* F?

I forgot to mention that I will still be using my burner for my boil. But I would like to use the element for all things mash related if possible (I might use the burner to get close to strike temps).

If this type of “hybrid” has been done over and over, my apologies. I have poured over threads and diagrams without finding a situation like this. If not, I will add pics of my setup and turn this into a build thread. I’m still working on the circuit drawings, but most of the Auber parts are in transit. Thanks for any insight!


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Old 07-29-2013, 05:59 PM   #2
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So i was thinking, would two 1500 Watt heating elements be enough to boil ~7 gallons? I could easily use two 15 A circuits and go completely electric. I've only seen two 2000 watt elements discussed previously.


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Old 07-29-2013, 08:12 PM   #3
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I would suspect the 3000 watts would be enough to boil 7 gallons. I know I've read some people have luck with 2000 watts being able to boil 7 gallons. I'm guessing there are some other factors involved like kettle dimensions. Personally I've tried using one 2000 watt element and it was not enough so I added another 2000 watt element. It works great.

Be careful when using the burner and a kettle mounted element. The heat from your burner will put some extra stress on the wiring and element.
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:35 PM   #4
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Yeah, after thinking about it some more, I am going to do the dual 1500 Watt elements.
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:25 AM   #5
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If its only temporary, you could make one of the boil elements a heatstick so you don't need two holes punched in your kettle. Also, if you build your control panel for 240, you might be able to come up with a diagram that switches between 120/240. On the schematic I have I could almost swap the 240 hot 2 for a 120 neutral and the panel would be good for 120. It would be a good stop gap until you get 240 available
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:40 AM   #6
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Do you have a electric stove? That's plenty of power to run your boil kettle.
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:16 PM   #7
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Thanks for the ideas. Here is a pic of all of the components that I will be using. Still trying to work it all into a correct circuit. Vut this will give you a pretty good sense of what I am trying to do.



Now I just need to pour over PJ's diagrams and morph them into one that fits my needs.
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:30 PM   #8
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should be christmas on my doorstep right now. Can't wait to get home and get everything in order.

Anyways, here is what I am thinking for the panel

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Old 08-05-2013, 09:17 PM   #9
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if someone could take a look at my diagram so far and tell me what they think, that would be great. I still need to add in the timer, reset button and e-stop. excuse the poor drawing skills

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Old 08-05-2013, 09:40 PM   #10
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You have 2-120V power inlet feeds but you are only using "Power 1" to drive the 2 1500W elements. Your total draw on "Power-1" is over 25 amps.

I think you need to switch the power input on SSR #1 (pin 1) to power input fed from the "Power-2" line. As it stands now "Power-2" is only being used to energize contactor 2.


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