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Old 07-15-2013, 04:49 PM   #11
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If it is an older dryer outlet it is most likely wired with H-H-N, as you described, and the N is bonded to the dryer chassis. This is no longer allowed, but existing work is grandfathered in.

You should definitely ground your brewery panel and have a GFCI, and the easiest way to do it is with a GFCI spa panel bringing in H-H-N and bringing out H-H-N-G. There have been many heated discussions around this approach, but it certainly works and is far better than no GFCI at all. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/3-w...-again-372667/
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I strongly urge you to incorporate a GFCI as a critical safety feature. It is likely that a GFCI spa panel will not only protect your life, but will also solve your neutral vs. ground problems.
Like this?

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/spa...ummies-266751/


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Old 07-15-2013, 04:59 PM   #12
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Yes, with the caveats in the first link I posted.


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Old 07-15-2013, 05:01 PM   #13
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Maybe I am crazy but how does that pot control the relay?
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:02 PM   #14
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I'm going somewhere else with my question, as the H-H-N-G / GFCI thing has been hashed (and I fully agree with others - put a GFCI spa panel in your setup, you can even just put it in-line with your plug - 3 wires to your dryer outlet, 4 wires to your box, life is good).

How does that SSR work? The SSRs I have seen require a +dc signal to one post and a -dc signal to another post. There is no power to either post, as you just have a potentiometer installed in line. The potentiometer will regulate / alter voltage, but there has to be some sort of voltage supply for that to actually work. What's providing the dc voltage to signal the SSR? My guess is that you're missing a component in your design. OOOoorrrr.... this is a type of SSR I've never seen before that takes 1 leg of 240vAC and some how converts it to a dc signal from one post to the other?

Is the wiring diagram you posted yours, or did it come with a kit / someone else's proven design?

-Kevin
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:25 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by jeffmeh View Post
Yes, with the caveats in the first link I posted.
Thanks.

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Maybe I am crazy but how does that pot control the relay?
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Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery View Post
I'm going somewhere else with my question, as the H-H-N-G / GFCI thing has been hashed (and I fully agree with others - put a GFCI spa panel in your setup, you can even just put it in-line with your plug - 3 wires to your dryer outlet, 4 wires to your box, life is good).

How does that SSR work? The SSRs I have seen require a +dc signal to one post and a -dc signal to another post. There is no power to either post, as you just have a potentiometer installed in line. The potentiometer will regulate / alter voltage, but there has to be some sort of voltage supply for that to actually work. What's providing the dc voltage to signal the SSR? My guess is that you're missing a component in your design. OOOoorrrr.... this is a type of SSR I've never seen before that takes 1 leg of 240vAC and some how converts it to a dc signal from one post to the other?

Is the wiring diagram you posted yours, or did it come with a kit / someone else's proven design?

-Kevin
I have no idea. Not my design and I am in no way shape or form an electrician. I bought the controller from stilldragon and got that diagram from their small forum.

I wasn't sure about it either so I posted it here so that the experts can tell me if its correct or not (along with my several other questions).
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:28 PM   #16
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The PSR-25 is a phase angle controller. I found the pic here: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewt...p?f=46&t=17383
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:03 PM   #17
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One further question. If I wire up the spa panel, could I just mount my heat sink, ssr, etc in the spa panel to save space and make life easier? Or would I need to keep them separate?
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:18 PM   #18
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The idea of the heat sink is to wick away heat from the solid state device so u really want it on the outside of a box or panel! Heat is a solid state devices worst enemy!
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:24 PM   #19
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One further question. If I wire up the spa panel, could I just mount my heat sink, ssr, etc in the spa panel to save space and make life easier? Or would I need to keep them separate?
I would keep them separate. Also, consider running 10/3 plus ground (4-wires) both into and out of the spa panel, even if you don't use the ground wire on the input. That way, if you ever move to a place where you really do have a 4-wire, 30a outlet, you already have everything you need to run 4 in and 4 out. Think of the cables and spa panel as a 30a GFCI extension cord.

This assumes that you have a 30a breaker upstream of the spa panel. If you want to run 50a, you would need to run 6/3 plus ground.
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:36 PM   #20
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I'm sure the heat sink would work fine for now, or why would they sell it like that? If it brakes from heat I'd likely complain. I'd like to make a larger panel in the future and maybe incorporate some fans inside... if I feel like getting fancy.

Thanks Jeff. I like that idea of running 4 and using what I need at the time. I have put off this project as I don't have the funds to build the spa panel, and I'd rather not die doing it the original way I wanted to. Hopefully I'll get a job soon (just got my BA) and then maybe I can wire up the correct panel/outlet.

Thanks for everyone's advice.


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