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Old 09-28-2013, 01:57 PM   #21
Black
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Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilserbrewer View Post
Not true, two 2000w 120v elements will boil a ten gallon batch. You do need two 20 amp 120v GFI circuits.
I stand corrected. I thought he wanted to go with a single 120v element. Didn't think about using 2. You need to have 2 separate outlets, though.


Cheers !

 
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:59 AM   #22
MX1
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to the OP, kinda late in on this, but if you check the sig of the B_K, he has a few ideas that might help you out if yuo still need it

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/2p-...bouter-160970/
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Ferm 1: Irish Red Ale
Ferm 2:

On Deck: American Wheat

Keg 1: Un-Common
Keg 2: Switchback Stout

Total Gallons brewed (2015) - 10

 
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:12 PM   #23
appleton11
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Jul 2013
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question on pumps:
in-line vs. center? one better than the other?
chugger vs. march - Kal recommends the march 809, but the chuggers are cheaper - thoughts?

connections:
cam locks vs. quick disconnects - thought?

thanks!!!

 
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Old 10-06-2013, 04:41 PM   #24
grathan
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Jul 2010
Albany, NY
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Camlocks- over quick disconnect. Price being the main factor. ease of cleaning, and also seem easier to manipulate to make air-tight. Easier to find replacement gaskets.

Chugger stainless head seems easier to take apart and more durable and possiblly easier to keep impregnated bacteria out.

Inline vs Center Inlet? no idea, I wonder this same thing myself.

 
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Old 10-06-2013, 04:44 PM   #25
PLOVE
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March or Chugger - both are basically the same design. Pretty sure that Chugger is the chinese knockoff. March is a US company. I purchased a couple of March 815's (larger impeller) and like them a lot. Not sure if you can still find 809's. Some will suggest the stainless head over polysulfonate, but the impeller and internal parts are still plastics, so what's the difference. The polysulfonate threads fine and is well built.

Cam-locks are wonderful. There are other qd's out there, but they don't save you much in terms of $$$ or convenience IMHO. Several vendors sell a cams in stainless and in various configurations. Tons of options.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:35 AM   #26
appleton11
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Jul 2013
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progress on the rig over the past couple weeks.
here's what I've done:
built the rack, purchased the chugger (center-in) and cam lock fittings from brewhardware, purchased the two heating elements (per Kal). I also have my electrician set up to come and add the drop for 240V.
next steps:
weldless bulkhead fittings and ball valves for the HLT and BK, ball valve for MT, remaining cam locks, second pump. still need two extra lids for the keggles (ideas anyone?)
i already have a 4" vent hole directly above the rig - i was planning to use one of the in-line exhaust blowers. need some ideas on a vent hood. (the ones I see at my hardware store are 30/36" wide. i'm thinking custom but don't want to break the bank. (thoughts?).
with all of that, I'll start brewing. lots to learn and lots to add in the future, but this should be enough to get me moving... enjoy - and thanks for all of the help!!!
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:19 PM   #27
appleton11
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Jul 2013
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more progress. and a couple questions:
i've got my two heating elements (Camco 5500W 240VAC per Kal). i bought Bobby's (brewhardware.com) electrical housing kits for them.
i bought 4-wire 30A 240V dryer cords from the hardware store. should I ground the neutral along with the ground wire in the electrical housing? Kal's instructions use a 3-wire (10-3) cord.
also - anybody have a good thread on a simple control system to get started? i've been reading Kal's book, but don't want to build a full controller (with PIDs) yet (probably will in time, just need something to get me safely started).
thanks!
RA

 
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Old 01-05-2014, 07:00 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by appleton11 View Post
more progress. and a couple questions:
i've got my two heating elements (Camco 5500W 240VAC per Kal). i bought Bobby's (brewhardware.com) electrical housing kits for them.
i bought 4-wire 30A 240V dryer cords from the hardware store. should I ground the neutral along with the ground wire in the electrical housing? Kal's instructions use a 3-wire (10-3) cord.
also - anybody have a good thread on a simple control system to get started? i've been reading Kal's book, but don't want to build a full controller (with PIDs) yet (probably will in time, just need something to get me safely started).
thanks!
RA
If you plan on feeding 240v into your panel, and using neutral to derive 120v, then you want the 4-wire cable as your power input cable. You might also use them to and from a GFCI spa panel, if you use one. The elements use H-H-G, so a 3-wire cable makes more sense for those.

If you plan on getting to a full PID controller, my advice would be to plan that out and figure out what intermediate steps you can take. Otherwise, you will likely encounter rework and additional expense.

 
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Old 05-10-2014, 05:11 PM   #29
appleton11
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Jul 2013
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It's been a while since I last posted. Finally got the rig complete and had my first brew day yesterday.

Pictures in this set:
the rig, side view (you can sort of see my exhaust hood and ducting), filling the HLT thru an RV filter, HLT filling, heating strike water
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Old 05-10-2014, 05:16 PM   #30
appleton11
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Jul 2013
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pictures in this set:

MT, BK, Mashing (2 deg low on this first go...), Sparging, Hot break
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