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Old 07-26-2013, 09:35 PM   #11
audger
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Apr 2011
., Connecticut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photolimo View Post
I am looking into using this setup but I am seeing mixed reviews about the effectiveness of a Potentiometer and Solid State Relay. It seems people think it only turns it on and off and does not actually give you the "precise heater control" they claim on this product.
from the pictures, that does not look like the "phase angle control" they claim on the page. that might be where you are seeing the negative reviews. it appears to be a simple PWM/duty cycle based SSR and potentiometer.

this explains the difference between PWM and phase angle control:
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17383



 
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Old 07-27-2013, 12:08 AM   #12
alien
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Apr 2012
Philadelphia, PA
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Stilldragon have set up a forum quite recently where you can ask questions about their stuff. You will get knowledgeable answers.

http://www.stilldragon.org



 
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:09 AM   #13
varocketry
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Apr 2013
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This type of controller is discussed in great detail in threads at homedistiller.org.

MATTD2's comment is completely wrong. This design adds a resistive load to continuously vary the power to the heating element. [A PID works via on/off.]

If your setup only turns on/off, it's not wired properly or it's not the right SSR.
Some SSRs have different control methods.

 
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Old 07-29-2013, 01:23 PM   #14
photolimo
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Aug 2012
Phoenix, AZ
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This looks like a great controller: http://amzn.com/B00BXUCWQG

 
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:21 PM   #15
alien
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110V limits the power. I've seen better ones for cheaper on ebay. Search for "scr dimmer 220v 4000w"

 
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:29 PM   #16
ThickHead
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Hrmmm...interesting. It's been a while since I have looked at the Still Dragon site. I actually purchased their 240v controller already built. I believe they had a guy in Texas do the build per order. It looks like they only sell the DYI kit now. I can tell you that the one I purchased works perfectly well and the components listed for the DYI are pretty similar to what I bought. Below is a pic:

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Old 07-30-2013, 09:59 PM   #17
67cougargt
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Aug 2011
Topeka, KS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photolimo View Post
This looks like a great controller: http://amzn.com/B00BXUCWQG
I have a keggle with two 110V 2000 watt elements. I think this would work to control the boil if plugged into one element. The other element would be plugged in but unregulated.

 
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:23 AM   #18
kosmokramer
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Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photolimo View Post
This looks like a great controller: http://amzn.com/B00BXUCWQG
Is this just power to the pot and the pot to the element?
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Old 08-01-2013, 02:26 AM   #19
mattd2
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Papamoa, New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varocketry View Post
This type of controller is discussed in great detail in threads at homedistiller.org.

MATTD2's comment is completely wrong. This design adds a resistive load to continuously vary the power to the heating element. [A PID works via on/off.]

If your setup only turns on/off, it's not wired properly or it's not the right SSR.
Some SSRs have different control methods.
Sorry but I don't understand why you think my comment is wrong? A TRIAC (as use in SSR, SCR, Phase Angle Controllers) are either off or on, do you agree with that? It does not add a resisteive load at all.
Can you explain what parts of my post you think are wrong.

A PID uses proportional-integral-derivative control to give more precise control of a process value to a set value without excessive ramp time or overshoot. Most PID use by homebrewers use a 5VDC PWM output to control a SSR. This is something completely different (the control method) to what was being asked(the switching method).

With the linked controller it is using phase angle control like you say, but that is still, as I said, turning the output on/off really fast. Basically it turns it on at some point ("set" by the potentiaometer) through the phase cycle, it then stays on until that one half cycle is completed and the voltage crosses the zero volt again. It then waits to turn on again when it hits the set point again = turning on/off really fast, not adding a resistive load.

more info - http://www.learnabout-electronics.org/diodes_07.php

 
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Old 08-01-2013, 02:30 AM   #20
mattd2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kosmokramer View Post
Is this just power to the pot and the pot to the element?
Yep, as that "pot" has all the other cicuitry (ScR, etc.) already wired for you underneath the stainless shroud.



 
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