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Old 06-27-2013, 03:29 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by jmf143 View Post
I don't see the mash temp listed. If you're mashing in the upper 150's the beer won't seem as hoppy as it would if mashed at 148 - 150.

Originally Posted by larrybrewer View Post
Do you squeeze out your hops?

Originally Posted by MuddyCreek View Post
I know it's a dumb question, but I looked at your original post and didn't see a specific clarification. You're doing a full boil, right?

What volume do you start boiling at in order to get down to 5.5? If you aren't doing a full boil but topping off that will also significantly reduce your bitterness and flavoring.
Full Boil, ~ 7 gallon pre boil

Originally Posted by daksin View Post
Your issue is not a chemistry problem, it's a recipe problem. You barely have enough late kettle hops to qualify that beer as a pale ale- I'm not sure I'd even call it that. It's more like a strong Blonde Ale. You need at least 3oz of late kettle (say, 1oz at 20, 10, 0) and a big dry hop. A whirlpool addition would do nicely as well.
Ok... More hops it is. I realize the answer is somewhat obvious, but watching the IBU's build up I've always been afraid of being undrinkable. I'll likely double late additions for the next batch and see how it turns out.

Thanks for the Help!

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Old 07-01-2013, 01:01 PM   #12
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Another option would be first wort hops. They have slightly more utilization than a 90min boil and taste panels when comparing regularly hopped beers to first wort hopped beers usually find the aroma and taste to be greater in the pre boil hopped beers.

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Old 07-01-2013, 03:48 PM   #13
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Look into other things as well because bitterness is perceived characteristic that is influenced by more than an IBU number. Your recipe should make a bitter beer so check on the following before adding more hops.

To accent bitterness, you want to finish at a very low gravity. Less body and less sweetness boost the perceived bitterness. Mash at lower temps to thin the body for example.

Oxidation is a bitterness killer too. Once you pitch, try to keep your brew out of contact with the air from then on. On the pitching side, make yeast starters as well. That will help push your FG down but will also help the yeast soak up the oxygen quicker to reduce the exposure time.

Use a rolling boil so you are utilizing all of your hops. If your boil is weak then you might not be converting the alphas to obtain your target IBU.
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:50 PM   #14
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Is your water like that out of the tap or are you diluting with RO? Either way,maybe look into adding a 1 tsp of gypsum/ 5 gal to bump the sulfate over 200ppm. For extremely bitter beers, the sulfate can go upwards to 350ppm. I had similar problems with making my hops stand out even though I was using a lot (so I thought). Once I dialed my water in using the correct so4/chloride ratio, I was making hoppy beers that I was proud of. Good luck!
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:30 PM   #15
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Make sure your hops aren't sticking to the side of your kettle after you add them - stir them back into solution.
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:36 PM   #16
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Sulfate won't make the beer more bitter but it will change the quality of the bitterness. You can experiment with its effects by adding gypsum to a glass of the beer in question. If you want really hoppy beer you should probably brew it with low sulfate water as that allows the drinker to tolerate more bitterness so that more hops can be used and more hop flavor and aroma are imparted. This is what the brew pub I most patronize does. He uses tons of hops but his sulfate is only 47 ppm. All the flavors come out without the harsh bitterness. I don't, in general, like 'hop bombs' but some of this man's beers of that nature are really good. Another secret: he uses extracts (I mean hop extracts) including the extracted essential oils. These smell and taste of hops without contributing bitterness.

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