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Old 06-25-2013, 07:01 PM   #31
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What are those motorcycle pipes coming out the side of the control box for?


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Old 06-26-2013, 12:45 AM   #32
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Subbed, this is exactly what I'd like to build in the very near future. I especially love the weld-in tippy dump on your tun. How do you keep a small amount of grain from building up at the lip or do you just not care at that point and go in the old-fashioned way with a scoop (aka hand) and clean it out manually like all the poorsies out there?
The mash tun does have a lip on it and I imagine I will just scoop it out with my hand. The tippy dump is designed so I can break the tri clamp connections and lift the tun off the stand if I need.


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Old 06-26-2013, 12:48 AM   #33
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What are those motorcycle pipes coming out the side of the control box for?
Haaaa those kick ass headers coming off the control panel are my way of limiting the number of penetrations I had to make in the panel. They are 2" stainless scrap tubing, I am going to pull my low volt wires through one and my high volt wires for the pumps through the other.
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Old 06-26-2013, 02:12 PM   #34
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What did you do for boxes around the heating elements?
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:22 AM   #35
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What did you do for boxes around the heating elements?
I haven't made the cable connections yet but I have some large heat shrink that fits around the connections and the element, I will post up some pics once I have them finished.
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:19 AM   #36
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Advice from a old electrician?

Heat shrink, thou great at sealing things up sometimes.. When you place it "around" a connection that has a screw terminal, as it tightens, it can loosen the lugs. Since it is closed up? you can not retighten them, (Cutting it off to tighten and you must determ one end to slip a new piece on) over a period of time it loosens more and heats up burning the connection. (This is from experience working with 25-100hp floating aeration pumps in sewage plants) Horrible job, real Sh****, I had child support to pay.

I'd be more tempted to get a " round exterior" cast electrical box, cut a hole fitting the threads on the back side and if you have "room" on the bung tighten up against it with a lock nut. If you have the tap-equipment put threads in it.. (sell a few to pay for the tap) Turn the cable-flex junction down, water don't normally run UP. CGB, Rubber cord grip, thou not water tight, can be drip tight.. OR coated flex with water tight connectors.

OF COURSE, you could take the "encapsulating" castable polymer approach, and take a form (coke bottle) and fill it with the polymer around the element connections, as it hardens it seals up and "will never" come loose, off again.. the cable and element are considered throw aways when they fail, if they fail. If you do this? you should go on and "cast some image" there on the polymer, perhaps a art deco?? (doll head, cat-dog, toy?)

HEY. Check out the fermentation "beer bug" on the other posts.. Might fit right into your line of work and automation scheme. All that shiny stainless is just crying for a colored LED string light show too.. sparkly.. (from a large child in GA) I love sparkly.
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:11 PM   #37
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Advice from a old electrician?

Heat shrink, thou great at sealing things up sometimes.. When you place it "around" a connection that has a screw terminal, as it tightens, it can loosen the lugs. Since it is closed up? you can not retighten them, (Cutting it off to tighten and you must determ one end to slip a new piece on) over a period of time it loosens more and heats up burning the connection. (This is from experience working with 25-100hp floating aeration pumps in sewage plants) Horrible job, real Sh****, I had child support to pay.

I'd be more tempted to get a " round exterior" cast electrical box, cut a hole fitting the threads on the back side and if you have "room" on the bung tighten up against it with a lock nut. If you have the tap-equipment put threads in it.. (sell a few to pay for the tap) Turn the cable-flex junction down, water don't normally run UP. CGB, Rubber cord grip, thou not water tight, can be drip tight.. OR coated flex with water tight connectors.

OF COURSE, you could take the "encapsulating" castable polymer approach, and take a form (coke bottle) and fill it with the polymer around the element connections, as it hardens it seals up and "will never" come loose, off again.. the cable and element are considered throw aways when they fail, if they fail. If you do this? you should go on and "cast some image" there on the polymer, perhaps a art deco?? (doll head, cat-dog, toy?)

HEY. Check out the fermentation "beer bug" on the other posts.. Might fit right into your line of work and automation scheme. All that shiny stainless is just crying for a colored LED string light show too.. sparkly.. (from a large child in GA) I love sparkly.
Excellent idea on encapsulation! What kind of polymer resin would you suggest?
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:46 AM   #38
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(Probably more info than you want??)

I encapsulated pc boards with synair castable polymer ( 1990s Chattanooga Tn). They only want to sell it in 55 gallon drums now thou, you can buy from a hobby dealer who dips you a smaller portion out.. bare metal foil? was one such place.. 50/50 mix by volume, less than 1% shrinkage. Rockwell 80-93 hard (by memory), you can drill and tap it.

Dascar plastics RP-40 is a castable resin. I've saw it used in Underwater robotics to seal cables to joints. No personal experience with it.

THE synair, I first cast it in the 80s making tattoo machine frames, when the catalyst "breaks" and heats up, (I had this in a rubber mold) it smokes, starts turning white, remembering my "DON"T MIX acids" training I turned and ran from the room expecting the explosion to occur, it didn't. It can be startling when it hardens. It happens fast if you don't have it out of the mixing cups it is "there".

There is "no" cleaning a pc board off for a minor repair, and if you didn't get the flux off the solder joints, they corrode even under the sealant. (or a electrical connection)
I'd send you a cup, but it has a shelf life and mine expired. Went hard without the catalyst.
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:00 AM   #39
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Love it! Two questions: What thought process did you go through for the choice of controllers. (BCS vs Brewtroller) and second, where did you source the project box to contain all that ugly/beautiful electronics? Please don't tell me it was a fabrication... I want to start my build with the controller/ valves etc while I'm still working out of state and living in an apartment, so fabricating a box will be difficult but I'm having a hard time finding larger project boxes.
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:15 AM   #40
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Love it! Two questions: What thought process did you go through for the choice of controllers. (BCS vs Brewtroller) and second, where did you source the project box to contain all that ugly/beautiful electronics? Please don't tell me it was a fabrication... I want to start my build with the controller/ valves etc while I'm still working out of state and living in an apartment, so fabricating a box will be difficult but I'm having a hard time finding larger project boxes.
The BCS is pretty straight forward, I looked into the Brewtroller and the newest version is nice with DIN rail mount enclosure and all of the new generation components look very PLC like. I think the ultimate decision was the web interface of the BCS.

The enclosure is a Wiegmann electrical enclosure 16"X18"X6", I went with a pretty small enclosure and barely could fit everything in, I just rattle can painted it after making all of the penetrations.


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