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Old 07-02-2013, 10:53 PM   #41
Kian
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Jun 2013
Posts: 33

Quote:
Originally Posted by anonymousbrew

Bi-Metal hole saws. DEFINITELY worth the extra cash.
made quick work of them. I bought a Milwaukee set at HD for like $25 i think? Drilled the front holes and bottom receptacle holes with the hole saws. RTD plugs were done with a step bit, front panel holes were cleaned up with a step bit.

used the same size for 220v30a and 120v pump plugs
Thanks for all the info regarding using the cat5 - definitely going to go this route. How did the holes on the front of the panel turn out using the step bit? Was there anything that needed to be cleaned up using the step bit? I have the 1/2 inch greenlee conduit punch for making 7/8 diameter holes which I will also be using on my kettles for the bulkheads I ordered.

Unfortunately alot of stuff I ordered for my kettles is back-ordered so I want to progress with the control panel in the mean time. Only thing I am hesitant about is wearing down the knock out punch making all the 22mm holes on the panel leaving me with a dull knockout punch when it comes time to use the punch for my kettles. Seeing that my kettles are quite a bit more expensive then the control panel enclosure id rather take a metal file to the enclosure and keep the punch for making the precision holes in the kettles. I guess I'm just curious if using a step bit opposed to a punch on the control panel caused any of the holes to come out less precise the you had hoped for?

Sorry for hijacking this thread. I will PM you going forward if you don't mind. I was having trouble finding an answer to this by searching through existing threads. Thanks again.



 
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:54 PM   #42
anonymousbrew
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Aug 2010
Tomball, TX
Posts: 110
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Hey Kian -
Not a hijack at all! thats what this thread is for. Ask away!

I used a 22mm hole saw on the front to make holes, then just cleaned them up a bit with a step bit.
i did NOT use a drill press. If you have access to one, go that route. You can do it by hand if you take your time, center punch your holes, and have a good powerful drill you can work slow with.

I had one hole that was off by 1/32", but was able to cheat the LED downwards and make everything line up.


Progress report -
I have everything but the interlock wired up. I'm moving on to make up an element next. I really like the idea of the interlock, and will most likely wire it in after i get all the kinks worked out.
- temp probes madeup
- PIDs configured
- Volt Meter wiring harness fixed
- elements wired in
- interior 'cleaned up' and zip-tied (ish - not all the way, but enough to make me stop twitiching everytime i open the box)
- started HLT element

I've only found 3 wiring issues so far.
- Had to switch 4&5 terminals on all PIDs - you'll know you need to do this if your PID reads a temp and wont change - (got the wiring logic from the auber site)
- I think i have my voltage meter reading off of a Hot and a Neutral - (=120) vs a hot and hot (=240)
- using a multimeter - i was reading 240 at the boil plug - even though element selector is off. I'm asking some ?s on the electricbrewery forum on this one.

time 6hrs
total time 41hrs



 
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:35 PM   #43
GrayTopBrewing
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Aug 2012
Madison, AL
Posts: 23
Liked 7 Times on 6 Posts


subscribed as well. Hopefully one day I'll have a similar project.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:52 PM   #44
SixthGear
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Apr 2012
Columbus, Dirty South
Posts: 35
Liked 7 Times on 6 Posts


Subscribing to this. I've always drooled over these kits, so its cool to see someone do a build with estimates of time.

Mind giving a ballpark of price for the entire setup?

 
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:48 PM   #45
kona_dude
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Jul 2013
Kona, Hawaii
Posts: 42
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Subscribed. Also drooling over this and interested in the ballpark figures.

Happy 4th!

 
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:04 PM   #46
BadNewsBrewery
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Oct 2012
Severn, MD
Posts: 1,247
Liked 129 Times on 103 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by anonymousbrew View Post
Hey Kian -
- using a multimeter - i was reading 240 at the boil plug - even though element selector is off. I'm asking some ?s on the electricbrewery forum on this one.
This is typical and expected, and happend to me. The SSR won't open (show 0 voltage) without some load on the SSR. So you're detecting a slight trickle current, or maybe the full current. If you plug your element in, or a large resistor, or maybe even a 240v rated device, you should see the voltage drop to zero. You just need to put some sort of load on the SSR so it can open. There's nothing wrong with your setup, and you're not going crazy.

-Kevin
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2015 - 72gal

 
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Old 07-08-2013, 02:46 PM   #47
Likefully
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Apr 2013
Cape Town, Western Cape
Posts: 359
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I have brewpot envy.

How do you clean that thing out (bottom picture post #2)?

 
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:24 PM   #48
Jeebas
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Mar 2010
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Posts: 468
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Unless I am mistaken by the picture you are referring to, that is the HLT, its only ever gonna have water in it.

The HERMS coil inside of it though, I imagine you would clean that by running hot water + PBW through it after brewday is over

 
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:31 PM   #49
Kolt-46
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May 2013
Posts: 2

Sub'd. Thanks for taking the time to share!

 
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:50 PM   #50
Likefully
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Apr 2013
Cape Town, Western Cape
Posts: 359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeebas View Post
Unless I am mistaken by the picture you are referring to, that is the HLT, its only ever gonna have water in it.

The HERMS coil inside of it though, I imagine you would clean that by running hot water + PBW through it after brewday is over
this one



 
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