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Old 06-07-2013, 05:04 PM   #11
disney7
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Thanks CrazyIrishMan.

So, does anyone know of a good intermittent pilot setup that will work with converted BG14 burners? I guess I'll need a gas valve, igniter controller, pilot, thermocouple, igniter, and power supply. Am I missing anything? Does anyone have part numbers for parts that are known to be compatible?

 
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Old 06-07-2013, 05:31 PM   #12
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http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/gas-...ummies-116632/

You may have already seen this but incase you haven't....

 
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Old 06-07-2013, 05:35 PM   #13
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Honestly I would just use a standing pilot valve. It would be a lot cheaper that whole set up is going to run more then $300 per burner if not more. It really doesn't buy you any safety factor. Also the valve will take longer to respond for a call for heat meaning that your temps are going to fluctuate more. Also there is more things to go wrong with it.
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:20 AM   #14
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One other thing to remember is that you need an orifice for 3.5" WC. The furnace valve also has a regulator in it that reduces the pressure to 3.5" WC. So the williams one listed earlier in the thread won't provide enough gas to get the full BTU rating of the burner.
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:21 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyirishman34 View Post
One other thing to remember is that you need an orifice for 3.5" WC. The furnace valve also has a regulator in it that reduces the pressure to 3.5" WC. So the williams one listed earlier in the thread won't provide enough gas to get the full BTU rating of the burner.
I am running the Williams orifice valve on both of my low pressure burners, one with a Honeywell valve and one plumbed directly to my regulator. I have found that there is no difference between the gas flow rates to either burner, even with both turned on at the same time.

 
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyirishman34 View Post
One other thing to remember is that you need an orifice for 3.5" WC. The furnace valve also has a regulator in it that reduces the pressure to 3.5" WC. So the williams one listed earlier in the thread won't provide enough gas to get the full BTU rating of the burner.
Im running three furnace valve, 2 different brands, neither of which are a honeywell. These were scavenged from dead furnaces (have a buddy in that biz). Furnance valves like most gas appliances have interchangable orifices made for eith natural gas (3.5" wc) or propane (11" wc). They are also slightly adjustable. Once I had my system plumbed my buddy brought over water tube meter and we set my regulator to 14" wc to supply the manifold and tweaked the out on each furnace valve for the cleanest burn. System works great.
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:23 PM   #17
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For those folks working on an automatic control Brutus design with low pressure burners here is a diagram of the wiring needed for a Honeywell S8610U ignition module, VR8304 dual valve low pressure gas valve, and a Love TS-2 temperature controller. This diagram includes a SPDT switch with center off so you can operate the burner manually to test, or in automatic mode with Love controller firing burner.
http://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.la...37998508461298

Here are the part numbers and links:

1 Ea. Honeywell S8610U Intermittent-Pilot-Control-Conversion-Kit
http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-Y...Conversion-Kit
1 Ea Honeywell Q345A1313 Pilot burner, needed because kit parts are for Q314 pilot burner conversion, and Q314 pilot is not included in kit.

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-Q...Gas-14525000-p

1 Ea Honeywell 390686-1 LP orifice for Q345 pilot burner if not included in pilot package.

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-3...50-Q3451-Q3452

LP conversion spring for valve (New regulator spring) if not included in kit

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-3...elope-Assembly

For AC power for 2 Ignition modules:

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-A...5VA-11016000-p

Well I hope this helps get you started on the way for spark ignition system parts needed.

For the lower cost approach with standing pilot gas valves:

here are the parts needed:

The valves, thermocouple and pilot light are:

The VR8200 gas valve

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-V...lve-11588000-p

Q390A1046 - Honeywell Q390A1046 - 24" Thermocouple.

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-Q...uple-1721000-p


Q314A4586 - Honeywell Q314A4586 - Honeywell Q314A4586 Pilot Burner

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-Q...rner-4113000-p

1 Ea Honeywell 390686-1 LP orifice for Q314 pilot burner if not included in pilot package.

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-3...50-Q3451-Q3452

As to powering the valves, the transformer listed above will handle 3 gas valves.

Here is another panel wiring diagram for a 3 gas valve setup you can use as a starting point https://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.l...79690350514498

Kevin

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Old 07-03-2013, 01:43 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kladue
For those folks working on an automatic control Brutus design with low pressure burners here is a diagram of the wiring needed for a Honeywell S8610U ignition module, VR8304 dual valve low pressure gas valve, and a Love TS-2 temperature controller. This diagram includes a SPDT switch with center off so you can operate the burner manually to test, or in automatic mode with Love controller firing burner.
http://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.la...37998508461298

Here are the part numbers and links:

1 Ea. Honeywell S8610U Intermittent-Pilot-Control-Conversion-Kit
http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-Y...Conversion-Kit
1 Ea Honeywell Q345A1313 Pilot burner, needed because kit parts are for Q314 pilot burner conversion, and Q314 pilot is not included in kit.

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-Q...Gas-14525000-p

1 Ea Honeywell 390686-1 LP orifice for Q345 pilot burner if not included in pilot package.

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-3...50-Q3451-Q3452

LP conversion spring for valve (New regulator spring) if not included in kit

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-3...elope-Assembly

For AC power for 2 Ignition modules:

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-A...5VA-11016000-p

Well I hope this helps get you started on the way for spark ignition system parts needed.

For the lower cost approach with standing pilot gas valves:

here are the parts needed:

The valves, thermocouple and pilot light are:

The VR8200 gas valve

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-V...lve-11588000-p

Q390A1046 - Honeywell Q390A1046 - 24" Thermocouple.

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-Q...uple-1721000-p

Q314A4586 - Honeywell Q314A4586 - Honeywell Q314A4586 Pilot Burner

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-Q...rner-4113000-p

1 Ea Honeywell 390686-1 LP orifice for Q314 pilot burner if not included in pilot package.

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-3...50-Q3451-Q3452

As to powering the valves, the transformer listed above will handle 3 gas valves.

Here is another panel wiring diagram for a 3 gas valve setup you can use as a starting point https://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.l...79690350514498

Kevin
I read that the spark wire maximum distance is 3'. Doesn't that create a problem with a 60" stand and the control box at one end? Ok, so you don't have a pilot on the boil kettle but that still leaves it pretty close to 3' from the control box to the center burner pilot.
Jeff

 
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:33 AM   #19
kladue
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Spark leads of 6' and longer have been done and they work, less contact with conductive frame structure helps. The honeywell factory cable is 3' but wire core spark plug bulk cable can be purchased by the foot from an auto parts store like O-Reilly's, Napa, etc. Rubber jacket is sufficient but if you want colors or silicone jacket check with Summit racing parts.

 
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:46 AM   #20
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You could also just locate the ignition modules in a separate box that is no more then 36" from the igniters. That would also isolate them from the PIDs and cause less interference. You would just have to run the control wires to the box.
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