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Old 10-12-2007, 11:45 AM   #1
Yorg
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I have just tested my new setup with the March pump.
My tuns have been about a thrid full, so, OK, not full gravity pressure.
Sure when it gets going, the flow is pretty good.
Getting it to prime however is such a PITA.
I can't seem to reliably get a flow.
My pump is mounted horizontally with inlet upward and about 1 to 1.5 feet below the outlets of my tuns.
Most of the time I open a valve, and the liquid just sits there in the hose with an air bubble in it, and the pump gnashing empty.
How low below your outlet do you need to be?
Do you need to have some sort of dump valve below the assemply to draw liquid down through the pump or a vent or something?

Cheers,
Yorg

 
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Old 10-12-2007, 12:38 PM   #2
Jester369
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I would guess that your grain bed is not allowing the air to come up out of the hose, and the pump can't draw enough fluid to force it out the other end. I would suggest that you prime the lines/pump with plain water before douging in. That way, when the mash is done, you just open the valve and pump away!

Hope that helps.
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Old 10-12-2007, 12:39 PM   #3
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I've read of this method, and I plan to use it in my rig:
1. Putting the outlet "up" and attaching a tee to it
2. Attach a ball valve to the remaining 2 openings of the tee, one that opens to more tubing (where you want your fluids to go), and one that opens to air.
3. Keepin the "to tubing" ball valve closed, open the "to air" valve and bleed air out of the circuit.....then close when primed.

Putting your outlet up will force all the air out of the pump head and prevent cavitation (gnashing). I hear 12" is adequate to prime with.

 
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Old 10-12-2007, 02:36 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaSteve
I've read of this method, and I plan to use it in my rig:
1. Putting the outlet "up" and attaching a tee to it
2. Attach a ball valve to the remaining 2 openings of the tee, one that opens to more tubing (where you want your fluids to go), and one that opens to air.
3. Keepin the "to tubing" ball valve closed, open the "to air" valve and bleed air out of the circuit.....then close when primed.

Putting your outlet up will force all the air out of the pump head and prevent cavitation (gnashing). I hear 12" is adequate to prime with.
This is essentually the way I have mine configured. Here is a pic of the in/out orientation (in is on the bottom). I do not have a fully assembled pic, but on the out, it goes to a tee, then from each end of the tee there is a valve. One is to the chiller the other goes to a pitcher. The one leading to the pitcher is my purge valve. From all valves in a closed position, I first open the kettle valve, then the purge quickly to allow air to escape, this is fo like 2-3 seconds, if I am good, only about a cup of wort comes out. Then I close the purge, open the chiller valve and start the pump. I always get full flow every time. Never a priming issue. My pump sits about 12 inches below the kettle.


 
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Old 10-12-2007, 05:16 PM   #5
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Mine is mounted right below my BK and now that I know how, I can prime it no problem. I also use it on my MLT. It's much higher, but can still have the same problem if not done properly. My pump is mounted with the inlet/outlet horizontal, but ScubaSteve is right, the best way is vertical with the inlet down.

I also think the T with a bleeder valve is a great idea, but you should be able to consistently prime your pump without it. I wonder how a T with a needle valve for bleeding off the air would work.

Here's how I get mine primed.
- Make sure the hoses are secure and won't leak air
- Open the ball valve on the pump outlet
- Open the ball valve on the kettle drain and allow the hose and pump to (mostly) fill.
- Partially (or mostly) close the pump outlet valve and turn the pump on. Any air bubbles on the inlet side hose should slowly start to fill up. Once the air in the hose is gone, you can open the outlet valve completely. There should be no more air that would cause cavitation.

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Old 10-13-2007, 05:47 AM   #6
Yorg
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Fantastic guys.
That gives me a lot to go on.
Cheers.

 
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Old 10-13-2007, 09:00 AM   #7
Yorg
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Guys, I now have a pic of the offending assembly.
Just to nail this:
Do you think, given all the posts, that simply rotating the pump so the inlet is down should fix it.
Or do you think I should give it more head. Let me re-phrase that: Should I mount the pump a bit lower.
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Old 10-13-2007, 09:32 AM   #8
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Just looking at that pic, I would think that closing the second (higher) discharge and venting the lower of the two valves with the QDs should be enough to bleed the air out. I have never used a march pump, but I am assuming you can mount it like that.
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Old 10-13-2007, 11:32 AM   #9
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Wow! Now that's some beer pron! If it works, use it. If not, lower it

 
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Old 10-13-2007, 12:47 PM   #10
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Yorg, I'd try mr_x's suggestion first. You should be able to bleed it out easily enough with the maze of valves you've got there.

Q: Explain the need for all the valves since you're using QDs. It seems like it would've been a lot easier and cheaper to just have a valve on the outlet of your pump and move around the inlet/outlet hoses with QDs.
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