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Old 05-10-2013, 06:27 PM   #11
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1 - I would drill the holes now. Drilling after the collar is on makes a mess of wood shaving inside the keezer.
2 - I used plain ol' styro-foam and glued it to the inside of my collar/lid. I removed my lid comletely. Used 1x8 for the collar, 7/16 waferboard for the top. The top is screwed to the freezer hinges and is still light enough to stay open on its own. This allows me to be at the freezer height to lift kegs in, instead of freezer height plus collar.
3 - I caulked all the joints in the lid. I have 3/4" weather stripping on the bottom of the lid where it contacts the freezer.

Here is a picture

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Old 05-10-2013, 06:38 PM   #12
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Here's mine. Evidently wood is not a good insulator so I used the caulk gun type construction adhesive to glue the insulation into place. Easy and cheap.

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Old 07-20-2013, 03:02 AM   #13
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I found corks the appropriate taper and size to fit the 3 holes I did not use for taps. I had to scratch a little more money together before the setup was complete. It worked great in a pinch and only cost a few bucks.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:14 AM   #14
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FWIW, I would say try to figure out the maximum number of faucets you will ever have, then decide how you want them spaced. If your maximum number of faucets is an odd number, the center of the collar should be the center faucet. If it's an even number, the center of the collar will split the difference between the two center faucets. Install the faucets you have for now from the center out, and make a note of the spacing for future faucets. When its time for a new faucet, put an "X" of painters tape over the area where the hole will be so you can mark it easily and prevent some of the tear out.

I have 3 faucets on my kegerator, and have room for 1 or 2 more. I have a piece of tape on the inside that has the measurements listed so when I install another one, I'll know right away what the exact spacing is.

All that to say, I think you should drill the holes as you go.
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