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Old 05-16-2013, 02:15 AM   #41
Bigscience
 
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Sep 2009
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I replaced mine with set screws that allow the hopper to be removed easily for gapping They are not full length and I use the thumb screws as a jamb to keep the set screws from coming out without having to be over tightened.
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Old 05-16-2013, 02:22 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m00se
I set my MM2 2.0 to .035 and couldn't seem to get any of the grains to fall through. The roller just spun while the grain sat there. Is there any tricks to get the gap down that low .035 and have the grain crush? Conditioning?
Mine got stuck this weekend at 0.037. Backed off to 0.040 still stuck. Backed off to 0.045 and turned perfectly. Then I went back to 0.040 and it worked great. I decided I must have had piece of grain jamming it or something the first few times. When I moved back to 0.045 I was careful to clear out all the kernels I could spot. I am not sure what my exact problem was.

 
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:01 PM   #43
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interesting thread - whenever I get a mill I was planning on the Monster 2-2.0
Lots of good tips here, sounds like it's a good idea to replace those thumb screws right off the bat before I ever even use it
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:07 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gab View Post
Any chance your drill is on reverse (if you are using one)?
+1 on that! I had the grains "dance" on the rollers (although a different mill) when I have the drill in clockwise mode. Try it in counter-clockwise direction.

 
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:56 AM   #45
Accidic
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If you flip it to backwards and then back to forward it can sometimes help start a stuck grind too. Forgot about that.

 
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:35 PM   #46
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I can never get mine started without turning it back wards very slowly then going forward slowly until it catches. But I like I tighter crush...that sounded kinda dirty but I'm not sure why!
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:45 PM   #47
DrunkleJon
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Going backwards seems to toss some uncracked grains in your catch bucket though. I find its easiest to start the drill while it is empty and add from there. I really need to find a reasonably priced motor and motorize and build a sturdy table for the thing because filling the hppper drilling and trying to keep from dping the whole setup is a tad hard to do with only two hands

 
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:26 PM   #48
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I asked the homebrew supply store where i buy my grains from what they ground theres at so i could mill mine the same and this is what they told me

We typically have that set to an average of .30 and .35, but the front mill is adjustable so customers can change it, and depending on what grain is being milled sometimes adjustment is needed to get the crystal 50-60 to go through.
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:22 AM   #49
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I bought two of these for tightening the gap adjustments. In fact i replaced all the factory screws/nuts with thumbscrews and wingnuts so i could make all adjustments w/o tools. Last thing i need on a brewday is to be digging through the toolchest.

Btw, i got this info from Fred:
hoppers are 8-32 x 3/8, and mill bolts are 1/4-20 x 1 1/4
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:41 AM   #50
DRog00
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If you are having trouble starting the mill, chances are you have grain stuck between your "free" roller and the end plates. I spin my free roller backwards to clear any grain, then start the motor, then dump in the grain.

I have a MM3-2.0 and I often wish I had a gear drive between the top two rollers.

 
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