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Old 05-16-2013, 02:15 AM   #41
Bigscience's Avatar
Sep 2009
Woodinville, WA
Posts: 626
Liked 29 Times on 26 Posts

I replaced mine with set screws that allow the hopper to be removed easily for gapping They are not full length and I use the thumb screws as a jamb to keep the set screws from coming out without having to be over tightened.
First they came for my Four Loko and I said nothing, then they came for my Double Imperial Espresso Stout.

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Old 05-16-2013, 02:22 AM   #42
alestateyall's Avatar
Jun 2011
Posts: 734
Liked 89 Times on 58 Posts

Originally Posted by m00se
I set my MM2 2.0 to .035 and couldn't seem to get any of the grains to fall through. The roller just spun while the grain sat there. Is there any tricks to get the gap down that low .035 and have the grain crush? Conditioning?
Mine got stuck this weekend at 0.037. Backed off to 0.040 still stuck. Backed off to 0.045 and turned perfectly. Then I went back to 0.040 and it worked great. I decided I must have had piece of grain jamming it or something the first few times. When I moved back to 0.045 I was careful to clear out all the kernels I could spot. I am not sure what my exact problem was.

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Old 05-16-2013, 07:01 PM   #43
DustBow's Avatar
May 2010
Cincy, OH
Posts: 634
Liked 21 Times on 19 Posts

interesting thread - whenever I get a mill I was planning on the Monster 2-2.0
Lots of good tips here, sounds like it's a good idea to replace those thumb screws right off the bat before I ever even use it
"Brewers make wort, yeast make beer."

"Brewing beer is neither complicated nor expensive. It's the responsibility of the brewer to make it as complicated and expensive as their spouse & budget will allow."

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Old 05-16-2013, 07:07 PM   #44
Beer Crafter, Metalhead \m/
funnycreature's Avatar
Mar 2013
Harpers Ferry, West Virginia
Posts: 1,073
Liked 191 Times on 162 Posts

Originally Posted by gab View Post
Any chance your drill is on reverse (if you are using one)?
+1 on that! I had the grains "dance" on the rollers (although a different mill) when I have the drill in clockwise mode. Try it in counter-clockwise direction.

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Old 05-17-2013, 11:56 AM   #45
Accidic's Avatar
Mar 2010
Millbrook, Alabama
Posts: 1,525
Liked 98 Times on 86 Posts

If you flip it to backwards and then back to forward it can sometimes help start a stuck grind too. Forgot about that.

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Old 05-17-2013, 02:35 PM   #46
May 2010
San Luis Valley, CO
Posts: 1,808
Liked 128 Times on 101 Posts

I can never get mine started without turning it back wards very slowly then going forward slowly until it catches. But I like I tighter crush...that sounded kinda dirty but I'm not sure why!
Originally Posted by Mirilis View Post
"I cant handle that buddy.. it tastes like Moose Piss", (IPA) - side note.. ive never had moose piss, but im sure it doesnt taste like IPA or I would have a moose.
Bottled: Grizzly Saison, Grizzly Brett, Session Pale, Colorado Cream Ale, Cranberry Apfelwein
Primary: -37* Blue Balls Baltic Porter, Bad Dog Brown, Bohemian Pilsner
Secondary: Rarely!!!
Future: Cognitive Dissonance Cascadian Dark Ale

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Old 05-17-2013, 06:45 PM   #47
Objects in mirror are closer than they appear
DrunkleJon's Avatar
Jan 2011
Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 8,142
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Going backwards seems to toss some uncracked grains in your catch bucket though. I find its easiest to start the drill while it is empty and add from there. I really need to find a reasonably priced motor and motorize and build a sturdy table for the thing because filling the hppper drilling and trying to keep from dping the whole setup is a tad hard to do with only two hands

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Old 05-17-2013, 11:26 PM   #48
manhattanksbrewer's Avatar
Dec 2010
Clay Center, kansas
Posts: 109
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts

I asked the homebrew supply store where i buy my grains from what they ground theres at so i could mill mine the same and this is what they told me

We typically have that set to an average of .30 and .35, but the front mill is adjustable so customers can change it, and depending on what grain is being milled sometimes adjustment is needed to get the crystal 50-60 to go through.
Blind Dog Brewery

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Old 05-27-2013, 05:22 AM   #49
outside92129's Avatar
Apr 2011
Carlsbad, CA
Posts: 1,224
Liked 63 Times on 51 Posts

I bought two of these for tightening the gap adjustments. In fact i replaced all the factory screws/nuts with thumbscrews and wingnuts so i could make all adjustments w/o tools. Last thing i need on a brewday is to be digging through the toolchest.

Btw, i got this info from Fred:
hoppers are 8-32 x 3/8, and mill bolts are 1/4-20 x 1 1/4
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:41 AM   #50
Apr 2012
Houston, Tx
Posts: 43
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

If you are having trouble starting the mill, chances are you have grain stuck between your "free" roller and the end plates. I spin my free roller backwards to clear any grain, then start the motor, then dump in the grain.

I have a MM3-2.0 and I often wish I had a gear drive between the top two rollers.

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