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Old 05-10-2013, 12:45 PM   #11
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Here is a collage of last nights crush if it helps. MM3 2.0 with 2% conditioned malt:


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Old 05-10-2013, 12:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mabrungard View Post
Yeah, I had problems with the gap adjustment screws slipping on my mill too until I tightened the thumbscrews with pliers.

I find that a proper crush will produce a moderate amount of flour and all kernels are broken. There is not enough flour in the crush above.
That's a "problem" that I've seen with my new MM-2 as well. The last batch I had the feeler gauges out and was checking/rechecking every couple pounds of grain. I'll give tightening the thumbscrews down with pliers a shot.


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Old 05-10-2013, 12:48 PM   #13
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That is a much better looking crush.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:21 PM   #14
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tighten down the set screws with pliers. I had that same problem losing my gap. I check before each crush. Use a sharpie to mark where the set screws are on the block. That way you can visualize if they have moved. I also do this with the gap adjustment knobs.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:25 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=mabrungard;5183440]Yeah, I had problems with the gap adjustment screws slipping on my mill too until I tightened the thumbscrews with pliers.

I had this problem too, I use a 4" crescent wrench to tighten the thumb screws enough, you don't need to crank them down, just tighten a bit more than you can do with your fingers.

Check your gap before and after you crush, Ill bet the gap is slipping, there is no way that is a .35 gap crush.

I have a MM-2.2 , do not condition my grain, and have my gap set at .38 thousand gap and I get quite a bit of flour.

Cheers
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mabrungard View Post
I'm finding that 0.035" is a good gap for my MM2-2. I also condition the grain before crushing.
Yep. I went with a wider gap and efficiency suffered. I would be sure to condition the malt with the gap that tight.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:58 PM   #17
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Also, i would replace the gap screws with screws from the hard ware storethat take allen keys. My gap doesnt budge.......but dont over do it!
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:08 PM   #18
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I get a good crush for Barley with Rahr, Great Western, and any specialty that I've thrown at it at .036 gap but I gap it with snug fit of the gauge between the rollers (I use two to make sure I have them even). I, too, have the MM2 2.0 model.

If I condition the malt I've gotten as low as .024 without excessive tearing of the husk but I really don't find this necessary.

My advice would be to go in the general neighborhood that you cannot find any whole grains left behind after crushing and the hulls you do see aren't torn to pieces. If you've got exceptionally fat barley that might be a higher number, if it's a little smaller maybe as low as a .032. I have not had any instances of needing to go below that number and my extraction efficiency is usually in the 80s. I have pushed too far a couple times and got a bit of astringency but I'm not positive it had to do with my crush. Either way, each mill is a little different so it'll depend in part on what your mill crushes efficiently at. And if you're really worried about it just go a little low and spritz your grain with a little water a couple hours before crush and you should be fine.

Edit: Best place to have typo ever... In a model description.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:21 PM   #19
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I have a gear drive motor on mt mm2 and all it will handle is .041. I just run it though twice and its fine. I think I will go recheck just to make sure it has not moved.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:15 PM   #20
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To solve the thumbscrew problem, replace the two screws with 1/4-20 by 1.25 or longer bolts that are fully threaded. I replaced mine with hex bolts.

Be careful removing the thumbscrews and replacing with bolts - I had a problem where the ends of the thumbscrews had deformed against the adjustment knobs, so that when I removed them they trashed the threads on the way out. If I were buying a MM today, I wouldn't even use the thumb screws. Go out and get the hex bolts so that you can start with a good screw that never has to be fully removed once you start using it, since I think the ends of the screws are always going to get deformed against the hardened knob.

My two cents...


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