Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Fermentation & Yeast > Fixing under-carbination
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:08 PM   #11
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When we hook our kegs up it doesn't matter how much CO2 is in solution - it's going to achieve equilibrium with the temp and PSI you've set the system to.

I think the reason these online calculators don't specify is because it's confusing. I mean, I use a heat pad to wrap up my fermentations, and this can put the beer at 72-75 sometimes. But if I were bottling and had no ability to crash cool, I would probably let the beer sit at room temp for 10 days. Whatever highest temp it achieved during this conditioning period would be what I plug in.

It was stuff like this that convinced me to get into kegging - I can deal with the cleaning and the work, but the inconsistency drove me insane.

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Old 05-06-2013, 06:28 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by el_caro View Post
If you do not have a plane to catch on this one then my recommendation is take 1 bottle and add some more prime to it and give it 2 weeks to carb.

Use your lowest calculation and you can use a different amount next time if still on the undercarb side.

Get a sterile syringe and inject the priming solution into the bottles as this will not cause foaming at the mouth.
I don't have a plane to catch, but was hoping to waste as little of this beer as possible. That and it was a highly hopped beer that I was playing with to compare hopping techniques (I dry hopped a gallon, brewed a hop tea for a gallon and bottled about 2 gallons plain [I also oaked a gallon, but that was just for fun]).

Thanks for the good advice about the syringe too. Do you pick them up at drugstores?

Originally Posted by biestie View Post
Right, you have the concept correct, but I'm thinking the amount of gas you lose is negligible isn't it?
Definitely not negligible. At least not when you are talking about a 20+ degree difference. The gallon I correctly calculated is great, the rest is has next to no carbonation and is undrinkable.
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